Marty Rogan

Yep, I saw that one and used some of it in my break-in plan. 150 miles so far and running strong! Marty

SEE!!! You are already checking the schedules for next time, !! It is the most fun a car guy can have with his pants on, ! Having your wife hooked is even better! Just ask Chino240Z. He and his wife both share their race car. She is always asking what they can do to the car to make it go faster. Man that would be a dream come true. My wife won't even touch a stick shift car, much less want to race one. Oh well, at least she tolerates my obessession, ! If I were you I would take the 5 spd to one of the good Z Shops out there and get it done right. It shouldn't cost that much just to get things tightened up correctly. There is nothing worse than to develop a problem at the track. On June 24th, my junkyard 280ZX motor did a major melt down after my second timed run. Funny thing is, I beat my best time at that track by 6 seconds! Then I barely made it home. This weekend I just fired up my new Jasper remanufactured motor. Should have just gone this route the first time. Oh, well you learn by your mistakes. Now I just have to get enough break-in miles on it before the next track day on August 17th. I can't wait!!! Marty

Glad to hear all went well. It REALLY is addictive isn't it!!? I went to a driver's school 4 years ago, ah hem..., just to try it and see how an old Z would really handle. Man that was it. Now I am planning my summers around track days! So, when your next track day? Marty

Saturday, I got the engine started up. It fired immediately on the first try! Sounded great. I decided not to run it at 2000 for 30 minutes. I ended up running it for about 15 minutes at 1500 to get it fully warmed up for its maiden voyage. Then I followed my original plan. Got about 50 miles on it by Sunday. It is running very smooth and strong. I am driving it to work all week so I can drive around at lunch get some miles on it. Man is it great to have that car back on the road! Thanks for all the recommendations, they are greatly appreciated. Marty

Welcome aboard! You will find plenty of info here to support your Z addiction. You should join the WCZC: http://www.windycityzclub.com/default.asp There are quite of few other Z nuts in the Chicago Area. Marty

And again, I really appreciate the people that took the time to respond with good advice. I will be using it. Marty

I thought you were trying to be funny and I was trying to be funny back. I am not an automotive engineer, don't have emperic data and certainly don't think I know it all, or I would not have asked the question in the first place. I did a search on this site and researched other places. They all seemed to say the same thing. Smooth accelleration not to exceed 4500 RPM for the first several hundred miles. Smooth accelleration, but don't beat on it. Like someone said, it's your car do what you want. If you want to take a fresh engine to the drag strip, go for it. Personally, I want my year to run strong for years and years. Ihave no intention of tearing it down again any time soon. Marty

In a word ... NO!!!!

Hmm, 30 minutes at 2000 RPM? I am starting to hear some conflicting info here. A lot of people out there say to not run the engine at a constant speed. This could cause a groove in the cylinder walls at that RPM and could break the rings when you take it to a higher RPM later. Would idling at 2K put a load on the rings??? Is that a direct quote out of the How to Rebuild your L6 Engine Book? A buddy of mine that is building a Mustang vintage racer got similar advice from a race engine builder. He was told to run the engine at 2000 RPM for 30 minutes. Then shut it down and let it cool completely over night and then change the oil. Phred, you out there??? I would love to hear your onion on this. Marty

Steve, My engine has the P79 head with the internally oiled cam, no oil bar. I twould think you should still see oil spraying around in there though, wouldn't you? That's a great idea looking through the oil filler. By the "timing cover gasket" do you mean the front cover? Or that small cover at the front of the cam? I would think it would be the front cover. I sure hope I don't have that problem. I really would not want to take the front cover off again! This is all good info guys! Thanks, Marty

Thanks for the tips guys! I have definitely been looking forward to turning her over! Marty

I have read from other posts here that you should not use synthetic oil til after 1500 miles are on the engine, so you do not prevent the rings from seating properly. Marty

I am just about finished installing my new, Jasper remanufactured L28. I was wondering if just filling the radiator with coolant gets enough coolant into the block for a start up. If not, how do you get coolant into the block? When it is complete, my plans for start up and break in are as follows: 1) Make sure all fluids are there and not leaking. Plan on using 10w-30 Castrol 2) disconnect the coil and gas lines, leave the plugs out and crank the engine a few times to get oil circulating through the engine. 3) connect everything back up and start it. 4) check for leaks. 5) check timing. 6) let it warm up thoroughly. 7) Take it out for a drive in the country. Run through the gears under steady acceleration to 4000 - 4500 RPM to put a load on the new rings. Use the engine to brake a few times. 8) after 20-30 miles, change the filter. 9) after about 75 miles drain the oil and change the filter. 10) Continue driving as in 7) for about 500 miles and change oil and filter again. Have I missed anything? Any other suggestions? I hope to have the car back on the road Saturday! TIA, Marty

Yep, it's been very busy around here lately. And I am putting in a new engine in my track car, so I have not had a lot of time to check in here. Marty

Matt, I had a similar problem with my track car last year that drove me crazy tracking it done. Under heavy load it would bog and lose power. Long story short, I discovered that the carb insulator gasket had blown way underneather where you could not see it easily. With the car running, spray some car cleaner all around the area of the seals. If the engine RPM's change, that is your problem. The other thought is that your floats may not be adjusted properly. Good luck tracking it down. Marty

Oh, well, I had to ask. If anyone sees a crack-free interior tail light section, give me a shout. thanks, Marty

Hi Arne, Its looks like a blue car in the pictures. Has it got a blue or black interior? If blue and in good shape, I might be interested in some of the interior parts. Marty

I don't agree with you that the value is declining. From what I can see, the opposite is true. WE had a Z Club show on Saturday at the Volo Museum, which is NW of Chicago. They were offering appraisals as well. The guy next to me had his 260Z appraised. It is a very nice, one owner car with 43K. It came in at $12K. It is green and had an automatic. Based upon that, I would put my '70 at at least $14K. What cars fetch on EBay has very little relevance to their actual worth. Final bid values depend on who happens to be bidding at the time, their Z Knowledge and an emotional bidding factor that has nothing to do with what a car is actually worth. I think if you did some research into what restored or unmolested, low mileage original 240Z's are selling for with private collectors, you might be surprised. I believe that they are commanding a pretty handsome price. Carl Beck, you want to chime in with some recent input on values? Later, Marty

IF, !!!!! You mean WHEN!! The first time I did a driver's school at the track, I was hooked. There's just something about driving your Z full out and at the limit without the worry of traffic cops nabbing you. You will be doubly infected. You already have Z Fever, for which there is only 1 known cure. Now you will turn into a track junky! It's all good fun though. Enjoy, and let us know how those brake coolers work. Marty

Hi Kyle, Good to hear from you. I was wondering what had happened to you. Just some friendly advice. Brakes are not the area you want to go cheap on. Just think of all the hard work and money that went into building that beast, then think of it as a pile of twisted metal. You don't want to go there. You have got that baby capable of 130 MPH, you gotta be able to stop it!! The Toyota 4 piston caliper upgrade is well documented. I have used this set up for about 3 years with outstanding results. I have done 5 30 minute sessions on the car at Road America (which can be really tough on brakes) and have not had any brake fade issue. Here's what I have on my car: Toyota 4 piston calipers from '88 Forerunner, V6 Wheel spacers (got mine from JSK, but they aren't selling any more) I think Modern Motorsports carries them. '84 300ZX vented rotors Axxis Ultimate pads (Ceramic/Kevlar) good for street or track, but dust a bit Steel braided lines (which you already have) When you you compare the cost of this package to the cost of reapiring/replacing the car, this is pretty cheap insurance. And if you will be going 130 MPH, make sure you have got good tires. That being said, have a great time at the track day! They are a blast. Wish I could do it every weekend. Marty

Thanks! Sometimes their descriptions are pretty wierd! Marty

Well, Here's another part that seems to be hiding on the parts CD. I need to get the # for the dip stick tube that goes into the block on an '83 L28. I imagine it's the same on all L28's. TIA, Marty

Dan, Yep, That's it. So, does that look like an electrical part, ? No wonder I could not find it. I was looking under the head section. Thanks, Marty

I am having trouble locating this part on the Parts CD. Anybody know the part number for the elbow pipe that screw into the back of the head and goes into the heater hose? I need to order one right a way. TIA, Marty

There is another guy in the WCZC that usually has a ton of Z parts. I need to talk with him on another matter, so I could ask if he has a good one lying around. Marty