Marty Rogan

I just installed one in my '71 240Z. The quality is good. You will have to modify the wiring a bit on the 2 white wires, but they give you the connectors with it. I ran out of time to try everything out though. I will probably get to that over the next week or so. Beats paying alot for a 30 year old box that could have the same melt-down issues in a few months. Just my opion. Marty

Craig, sent you a PM. Marty

Hey 26th! Yea, I saw your response on the other thread after I started this one. The sample does sound just like the backing on a set of MSA carpets that I bought. I agree, that it is probably nicer than the original jute. I want to use it on my blue show car, and if I am going that far, I should go with something closer to the original color. Thanks for following up with me though. Marty

Chris, Thanks for the pic! I did not picture that arrangement at all. I would have pushed the rubber cable into that slot! Thanks for the jute link. Let us know if the sample turns out to be good. Marty

Well Chris (26th), what have you been able to find? I am hoping to find a domestic source, reasonably close to the original. TIA, Marty

Kats, I also enjoyed your website. I am always interested to see another car with a blue interior, since they are so rare. If I had not just bought another 240Z last summer, I would be interested in the blue one for sale in the classifieds right now. You have done a really nice job on your car. Your website has inspired me to replace the jute material on my car. I am trying to source the material now, as I am preety sure it is NLA from Nissan. Marty

Hi Kats, No, I have not installed it yet, since it has been too cold in Chicago. Working on the car in the winter cold of Chicago takes all the fun out of it. I should be able to get it installed within the next 30 days though. Is the plastic gromett you are referring to, theone at theend of the throttle cable that shows in my picture? Marty

Anyone out there know where to buy (in the US) the Jute material that goes under the carpets? I would like to get it as close to original as possible. TIA, Marty

I've got this project coming up on my 71 this spring. I have a leak in the hose GF-23 on the Banzai drawing. So, it looks like the only hose that I really need to buy is the GF-24. Can this job be done without having to drop the tank? I really don't seem to have any gunk problems with the tank that I know of, so I would rather not drop it if I don't have to. TIA, Marty

Hey Wayne, Just a thought. Re-check the wheel cylinder, you may have gotten a bad one. When the wheel cylinder went bad on my 71, caused drag on the drum, and would not disengage when you let off the brakes. Marty

Art, This is a well known scam. Don't fall for it. They will take your car and your money and be long gone before you can verify that their check was no good. Marty

IT very well may be your tire rubbing on the fender paint. What size tires do you have on the car? With large tires and sharp turns, the tires can rub on the fender. My car has 215/60/15's and it required bending the fender lip inward at the front. Marty

Pepman, Putting the Lexus V8 in has been done. Check out this website: http://www.zparts.com/showcase/engines/pages/eng_lexus1.htm Unfortunately, it does not giving any details. I bet that is really sweet though. Lexus engines are incredibly smooth. Marty

Mike is right. That spot is very hard to photograph. Check out the Banzai site. They have them cheaper than MSA. The inner tube idea is pretty good though. That should do the trick. Marty

When I put my new bumpers on , I used some rubber insulators sold by MSA, for $14.95 each. They slip over the end of the bracket that mounts up to the body. They were definitely worth it. Not sure what is available over there though. Marty

And just think of the listing fees they must have made!!! Marty

Just when you thought you had seen everything listed on eBay!!! Unbelievable! Marty

Tom, The Z's have such a clean, classic form, I personally hate to see them all tarted up. Of what you have showing, I like the BRE best, then the orange. That's my 2 cents. Let us know what you decide. Marty

Hey 26th, You mentioned that Lebarron Bonney has jute? Could you give more info as to who they are, where, price, etc? Is that the same material as original? Thanks, Marty

Nate, As Michael stated , the 73 has a spacer between the body and the bumper and the upright guards are a little wider. I used to have a 73 and did not like the look of the front bumper either. I changed it out easily for an earlier bumper. Just remove the 73 bumper and spacer. Get mounting brackets for a 70-72. They are nothing more than plate steel, with a slight bend to it and some slotted holes in it. Nissan conveniently left the threaded bolt holes in the body for you! I never bothered with the rear bumper. It's been too long since I owned a 73, but they may have those pistons for the 5 MPH bumpers. That would make converting the rear one a little tougher, but I know it can be done. I would suggest you start now looking for parts as bumpers are starting to get NLA, especially the rear center piece. Rare means $$$$'s. I have seen people selling the rear center piece for up to $275. I believe front bumpers are easier to obtain new. Good luck and congrats on getting your Z. Marty

260DET wrote: "TomoHawk, you start with the suspension and steering in first class condition. In view of Steven's point this includes no bump steer. Then lower the car all round but with a bit of rake. Fit a modern scraper type front spoiler, not a spook or similar, I've seen a US one that I would love to have. Rear spoiler as well. " I am wondering why you do not recommend a Spook spoiler? I have one on my 70 and seems work very well. Marty

Victor, What can you say. That is a crime against nature! And just plain sucks no matter how you slice it. Hopefully, you have an agreed to value insurance policy. I learned to get one after my first 240 Z went up in flames after 7 years of restoration. I had about $10K into it (back in 1987). The insurance adjuster wanted to give me $1,900. I asked for a meeting with her bosses' boss. Came to the meeting with recent copies of Hemmings, detailed pictures of the car and a massive stack of receipts. Luckily the boss was a carguy and could plainly see that this was no ordinary used 240Z. It was a show quality car. I ended up walking out with a check for $6,700. Probably couldn't have got that if I sold it, so I was happy with the settlement. Not happy to lose the car though!!! I feel your pain. Hopefully you'll get it back in reasonable shape and not have to haggle with the insurance company. If it comes to that, just remember, you can negotiate their offer! Here's hoping they find it in good shape. Regards, Marty

Halz, Here are some instructions for vinyl painting (dyeing) that I have used with very good results. Marty Painting the vinyl and plastic in a Z is easy. There are 2 sources for the dye. If you don't have a paint gun, find SEM vinyl dye at a good paint store. SEM is the only way to go, and I have never found another product that works as well or lasts so long. It also looks totally natural. They have Satin Black for your 240Z, and Napa Red for your red 240Z. They have ZX colors, too. Please do not even consider any other brand. Been there, done that. In my experience, there is no other brand that has the correct gloss, durability, and chemical composition to bond to the vinyl. SEM is about $7/can. I use 4-6 for an entire interior on a 240Z. If you have a paint gun (door jamb gun is good, HVLP jamb gun even better). Dupont has vinyl dye that is comperable to SEM. It is about $20/quart. Does one car. Preparation is everything! Here's my process: 1. Remove seats and carpet 2. Use a couple of rolls of paper towels to clean all the vinyl/plastic (VP) with a water based cleaner (soap/water, ammonia, Mr Clean, Mrs Pineoil, ect). Let dry 3. Wet wipe the surfaces with lacquer thinner. Not Enamel or poly thinner, just cheap lacquer thinner. Wipe and scrub and scrub. You will notice the VP getting soft. Stop before you ruin the grain pattern. 4. Now shake your paint can. If using the Dupont, it is ready to spray. Mask off all the unpaint items. I use Big Gulp bottoms taped to the gauges. 5. Rewipe the surfaces quickly with a very wet paper towel, and start fogging on the dye. It is very thin. You may end up with 5-12 coats to get good heavy coverage. Let dry, and you are done. Note: DO NOT PAINT THE SEATS. IT WILL RUBv OFF EVENTUALLY ON YOUR 501'S. The Napa red is a precise match for the Datsun red interior. Even a patch of paint will blend in to the existing panel. The theory behind the lacquer is that it chemically softens the VP. When you apply the dye, it soaks in and grabs the substrate. Dupont also has texture paint to redue the texture for Ford Bronco tops. It so happens to look like vinyl when it is dry. I use it to redue the sill plates... It also works for roll bars to spiff them up. The stuff is bulletproof when dry. It does not match the Datsun sillplate vinyl exactally, but it is a lot easier than trying to recover that rusty piece with contact cement and vinyl. This paint has to be applied with a non-HVLP gun (your normal old fashioned gun is not HVLP). It's the pressure that makes the spiderwebs as it comes out, which then coagulate into the vinyl texture. This coating can then be recoated with black semi-gloss vinyl dye. Bare metal prep 101: The best metal prep for the average do-it yourselfer on bare metal is an epoxy primer. I use PPG DP series. DP40 is black. It gets mixed with a catalyst (DP401 or DP402). They say if you don't sand it within 7 days...don't bother. It gets very hard. It is applied with a paint gun. All modern paints with a catalyst have isocraynics in the cat. Use a respirator! The epoxies do a great job of sealing off all the substrates. Modern paints are very hot and agressive. If applied over a old lacquer or enamel job, it will likely cause the old stuff to bleed through. Smother the car in epoxy, then start the bodywork. Put more epoxy over the filler, then apply some K200 and K201 catalyzed primer. This stuff goes on thick, but sands wet sands like butter. The best way to wet sand is to apply a mist of black lacquer over the unsanded K200, then wetsand with 400 grit. The low spots will show up as black. Reapply filler, and do it over again. Good luck.

Thanks Mark. I figured that there must be some sort of bracket or clip to hold that cable in place. Hopefully that bracket is in my Z blt, 6/70. Yep, those round knobs are about as rare as hen's teeth! Can't wait till the weather gets warmer to install and try it out. That should make car warm-ups much easier. Marty