Rust Bucket

i just finished an engine swap (l28) in my 1972 240z that has been sitting for like 3 years. everything was ready to go except the fuel pump isn't working. Its an electronic fuel pump located just in front of the gas tank. i checked the voltage of the wires to the pump and was getting 11.5 volts, so i figured i have a bad pump. i went to schucks to purchase another one, but all they could find me was a mechanical fuel pump, which i was not even aware was on the z. i looked for a spot that it could go, but couldn't find one. the car ran with the electric fuel pump just fine when it worked, so i would like to replace that part, not swap a mechanical one in there. Am i wrong? are there two fuel pumps in the Z? and could anyone help me find the part that im looking for? the part number is 4070j21a on the electronic pump. the pump on the right is what they gave me, the pump on the left is what im trying to find.

i only disassembled in down to the head and also replaced the timing chain. and im 99 percent that i got the valve timing right. i did the first compression test about a week before i started tearing into it. after about another week, everything was put back together is when i attempted the second one. so altogether about 2 weeks between the two tests.

is there any way i could get those FSMs from you?

hey sorry, its been a while since i've been on. i actually just bought an L28 to throw in there, but only because i want it running. i love puzzles and i feel like the l24 is gonna be a good one. to answer some questions, yes, i followed all of the torque specs and bolt tightening patterns as is in the chiltons manual. no...i still do not have the fsm because i still do not have a computer that i am able to download that onto. i was not the original owner of the car. the first time i ever touched the headbolts they were loose. i am not sure if that would be a contributing factor to the low compression, but that plus a disintegrated head gasket are what i think caused it. i just swapped the head over onto the L28 and i found nothing in the L24 that would have caused it not to turn over. in fact, even with the engine out of the car, and the head off, the engine is still impossible to turn.

ok. so the timing is definitely right. i've checked like 3 different times just to make sure. another question though: when i took the head off, only 3 of the bolts were even tight at all, and all the other head bolts were loose. the 3 bolts that were tight were the 1st and 2nd bolt in the loosening sequence, and then the 7th bolt in the sequence. so two in the middle and one other. do you think that maybe the block warped when i took the head off and now one of the pistons can't go all the way up/down?

ohh ok, that makes sense. i will go download that when i have a computer that i can do that on. but just an update, i just adjusted my valve timing and the same problem is still occurring. I lined up the cam at TDC and then i lined up the crankshaft and TDC and put the chain back on. Am i doing this wrong? this is the first timing job i've ever done really. but is there anything else i need to be aware of in order to time it correctly? i looked back at the numbers too, and i can actually only turn the crank around 30 degrees above and below TDC, i don't know if that information will make a difference. it feels as if the piston is binding against something. i had to remove the starter to wedge the flywheel so i could take the crankshaft pulley off, does it sound plausible that maybe something fell down in the hole and the flywheel is now jamming against it at a certain place in the bell housing?

so does that mean when i turn the crank that a piston is making contact with the valves then? is that what is stopping it? what is the FSM and where do i download it?

so, after letting my 72 Z sit for 2 years without doing anything to it, i recently decided to take on the project again. i bought a gasket kit for the Z and disassembled the engine. i rebuilt the carbs, replaced the head, valve cover, intake, and exhaust gaskets, replaced the timing chain, and started putting everything back together again. the last thing i did was attempt to give the Z a compression test, and thats when i found out that the crank will only turn around 90 degrees before and after TDC. Any idea of what i could've done to the engine to make it bind up like that when i try to turn the crank? also, i gave it a compression test before i took everything apart and the engine turned fine. compression numbers were awful. low 20s to mid 40. maybe i put the timing chain on incorrectly and it doesn't have the right number of links between timing marks or something....? Anything??

There is a 240z, either 1971 or 1972, it is painted blue with white racing stripes. Has a front air dam. It has side exhaust pipes, the space between the headlight covers and the front quarter panels has been bondo'd over or something, and all emblems (i believe) and the rear hatch button are shaved. It is lowered, has aftermarket rims, and has a chevy V8 in it, so i know this isn't the right forum, but i don't have a hybrid Z login. It's automatic and the gear shifter does not work very well (you have to push it down and then move it, or something). I do not know if it's suspension has been modified. This car was originally sold in Federal Way, Washington at Evergreen Sales and Leasing. I have NOT been able to stop thinking about it and i NEED to find it. The car looks similar to the car in the link below, but this is not it. this is my absolute dream car, other than the automatic transmission and perhaps the V8, but the tranny shouldn't be hard to swap out. PLEASE HELP ME FIND THIS CAR, OR IF YOU KNOW OF IT'S WHEREABOUTS PLEASE CONTACT ME! -Matt, mhanaford@yahoo.com LINK: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2980390

i had dave (zsondabrain) adjust the carbs for me, because i could rev, but under load it died. i'm not especially good with mechanics, so how would i check the oil pressure? because it runs for about 20 minutes and then the engine dies..so that might be the problem.

i have a 1972 240z and it's got a couple problems. it was running great a while ago, but i had the carbs adjusted and it wouldn't hold idle. i also couldn't rev it up or it would die. i adjusted the carbs again thinking maybe it was flooding the engine, so i made it leaner. it runs and drives now, but i can only rev it to 3000 before it sputters, backfires, and and stays at 3000. any suggestions as to why this might be and how i could go about fixing that? -Matt

yes, i checked for continuity as well. would having the fusible links not work prevent ALL of my electrical from working..because NONE of it works.

i checked with an ohms meter and it has contact. i replaced the battery shortly after you installed the headlight upgrade harness. Just like Dave said, my car is a rust bucket. i'm trying to get it back into drivable condition, but as i have had no previous experience with cars, i need all the help i can get. the engine did not turn over when i jumped it. NONE of the electrical works, even while connected to another battery, so i'm sure it's not the battery that is the problem.

i have a 1972 240z i was running the car and it was idling rough, and then it suddenly died. now i can't start the car even if i try jumping it. none of the electrical works, not the hazards, headlights, brake lights, nothing. is this a voltage regulator problem?

i just replaced my distributor, and the car runs perfect until i drive it for a while. after about 5 minutes, when i step on the gas, the rpms will rise, and then drop and the car will lose power. could this be a vacuum problem?

inspecting the rotor and contacts. the contacts looked fine, and the rotor looked fine. tomorrow im going to take it out and inspect it more closely, because it was dark outside. i also checked for spark, and there is spark, which would mean that it's getting to the spark plugs. would a distributor problem cause backfiring?

i have a 1972 240z with a stock l24 engine. today i went outside, started my car, and then when i felt that it was running rough, i checked under the hood. what i saw was that my distributor cap wasn't clipped on for whatever reason, so i decided that a good solution to that problem would be to clip it on. well, as soon as i pressed down on the distributor cap, the car died.. now the car won't start, and it backfires, which is has never done before. i bought this car to restore, and teach myself about how cars work, so i don't have all the tools i need for everything, i am saving up for a timing light, because my car's timing was off, but i am still a novice at this.. is this also a timing problem? how would the distributor cause backfiring? can anyone help me?

alright, sunday sounds good. i sent the check today, sorry about it being a few days late.

so i replaced all of the intake vacuum hoses and put on a new filter, and that seemed to actually make a lot of it better, but once the engine started heating up, it had the same problem. the RPMs dropped and the car almost died.

ok, so i tried it again, but this time i just tried revving the engine, and it worked, but it didn't rev as fast or as high as it normally would..it almost seemed like it would lose power the more i opened the throttle. so..would that be a vacuum problem?

Redmond, Washington. Dave (Zs-ondabrain) has already come out to help me once with my headlights, but it was a long drive, so im not sure if he'd come all the way out here again. i think that flooding might have been some of the problem, i made the mixture leaner and it ran better, but that's not all of the problem. fouled plugs was my other theory, so i'll check that out and get back to you.

i have a '72 240z and when i start it up, it's fine, but when i open the throttle and let up the clutch, the engine rpms will drop, and it will either die, or hover around 200 rpm until it goes back up to around normal. i have the choke open, so that's not the problem.. does anyone have any idea what's going on, or how to fix it?

AMEN.

i have a '72 240z. when i crank the engine, it takes a while to start, and then when it starts it will only go up to around 300 or 400 rpm, and if you touch the gas, it stalls. if you wait, sometimes it'll stall, sometimes it'll get up to speed, but once it's hovering around 1000 rpm, if you touch the gas it'll stall. i do not have an air filter, would that have anything to do with it, and also, would an air filter from a '76 280z fit on my '72?

i've got a '72 240z and the headlights won't work. i got the right one to work at one point, but only when the brights were on, however, as soon as i turned on the car, the headlight wouldn't work anymore and i haven't been able to get it to work at all since then. when i test the connector on the car, it gives me 12 volts of power, but when i plug in the connector going to the headlamp, the light doesn't work. i know for a fact that the wires going to the new headlamp are fine, so shouldn't the headlight work? does anybody know what might be wrong? another problem is that when i plug in the right headlight connector, the bright's indicator on the instrument panel won't light up.. any ideas?