TomoHawk
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Everything posted by TomoHawk
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Well, if you take the dizzy end of the HT lead off, you get to see a lot more sparking, so the module seems to be working. Now I need to see if the injectors are clicking. Is there a way to see if they get a signal, like plugging in an LED? When it's cranking, you won't hear the injectors.
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So you absolutely can't use the stock coil? I had the flamethrower coil on it for a while, until a few weeks ago, when it just stopped working for some reason- air gap was off maybe, I don't think I want to bother with a bulky GM coil, since I have the stock bracket already in there.
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You might be right, since I though the dizzy drive got off a tooth, but can these 'import experts' adjust that? the nearest Nissan dealer is 20 miles, and there are few Datsun guys left, I'll bet. Good thing the bumper shocks still work...
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Higuys! After all the years of faithful HEI operation, somebody bumped the front of the Zed, and after replacing the bumper, the engine runs like like the firing order was mixed up! SO I clean the plugs and confirmed the wires and firing order. No difference I replaced the HEI module, with no improvement, so I think the dizzy skipped a tooth on the drive shaft? Maybe a freak shock fried the Flamethrower coil? I'd just like to confirm somethings that seem sketchy in my docs: H.E.I. Module is from a 1974 Camaro V-6 Stock coil? It had a flamethrower before ThxZ
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Sorry, but there is still n such thing as an air-to-fuel ratio sensor.
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I found one. It's on page BE-17.
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Higuys, Is there a chart or a graphic of the connectors nears near the firewall (blue, white and black) that show the connector names? I need to know which is connector "C-4" which has the wires for the headlamps, so I can clean the pins and improve the leadlights. I looked in the Body Electrical section in the FSM and it only refers to C-4, and even tells you where the specific pin is for power & ground connections, but doesn't tell you where to find the connector itself. While I'm looking at them, I will mark them with a black marker. Thx
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As usual, I will have to fix things myself.
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Is it possible to get the front side clearance lamp to flash with the turn signals? Since the Zed doesn't have wrap-around front lamps, like new cars have, there are places where on-coming cars can't see the flashing, when you are turning. IMO, you could make the clearance lamp a dedicated flasher, or add a circuit board that flashes it when the front indicators are flashing, but otherwise on steady.
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Those are robber strain relief-sleeves that are supposed to keep the wires from being cut and the water out of the frame rails, but as all the rubber parts exposed to the elements, they dry out and fall apart.
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There are only clearance lamps on the fenders, not turn repeaters, unless you re-wire or add something to make them flash with the turn signal lamps. Lets us know if you have a working solution.
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Thast's not an issue. It's a problem. There is a difference. Please learn to use correct English, not liberal jargon.
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I had time and the need to make one, so I did. I cut the entire front seat belt from a modern front-wheel-drive car at the pull-it-yourself JY, and used heavy-duty Velcro from the sewing store. It worked well on a track with many tight turns. You get 6 feet of belt for the front seat!?? Just be careful not to cut off your breathing or immobilize your arms. Being in safe control is more important than strapping yourself to a seat. Autocross Chest Strap.pdf
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mine makes a whizzing noise with the starter disabled.
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Stumped by my Fuel injection operation , cold idle ????
TomoHawk replied to Killain's topic in Fuel Injection
It should only have 12V after about 10 seconds, if the thermotime switch is working correctly. Otherwise, it should have 0 volts when you first turn on the power. In any case, test it under a load. Have you downloaded the Fuel Injection Bible, and flowwed the troubleshooting charts? -
You didn't define what you were intending to do with throttle position. But you are essentially correct; it tells the ECU if the the throttle valve is fully closed or fully open.
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There is one there already. It's in your foot! 😉 The L-Jetronic EFI system doesn't need one, unless you are trying to re-engineer things.
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Thanks man What I did was to go to my AP store (Autozone) and get a Wells DR100 Ignition Module. It's a Duralast product.
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I lost the box that my GM HEI module was in, and I forgot to make a record of what I had. My docs say to use a Wells model #DR100 4-pin GM HEI module. Would someone please give some examples of which vehicles had the generic DR100 module? Those kids in the AP stores only know "Make, Model, and Year" to put into a computer. You can't even get a quart of 15W-30 oil for a lawn mower... ThxZ
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Brown is the new red which was the old brown - fusible links
TomoHawk replied to Zed Head's topic in Fuel Injection
Is that tight? IIRC, the brown one is for the headlamps, so you want to make sure that is the correct size. It looks a bit thin. -
The only way(s) to see if it's sticking and why is to remover the AFM and look inside, or take the cover off the side.
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It looks like you could only make changes to how the L-Jet ECU works if you had the original Bosch circuit diagrams and operation flowchart. But at least you can fool around with small changes in the coolant sensor.
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If you are interested in a less electronic way to tune the fuel injection, Autospeed.com has some good technical articles you read and try: One uses an accelerometer in stead of the S-O-P method. BTW- the accelerometer is also useful for determining shift points. https://www.autospeed.com
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You must be thinking of old computer peripheral or I/O adapter cards, that use the microswitches to set up the port settings, card address, etc.
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You can get a cryo-freeze spray for electronics, but I don't know who sells that now.
