TomoHawk

I also read elsewhere that the distributor clamping plate can be turned slightly, which might lead me to adjust the distributor incorrectly. Should I remove the distributor ad check the position of the plate and its screw? A picture of a correctly installed plate would be nice for reference. I wonder if I put that plate on upside-down? It would throw off the time a LOT. Icchh- I got a lot of work for tomorrow.

Higuys, I did this about 10 years ago, but today I put the timing light on, and with static timing, it was about 40 degrees! I don't remember everything you needed to do to find the timing notch on the balancer/pulley, but this is what I thought you needed to do: Take out all the spark plugs, and the engine should turn easily? For some reason mine didn't. I used a socket on the alternator bolt, and the pulley turned without moving the belt- there was a LOT of resistance. Should I engage neutral on the transmission? Did I forget something? I was considering loosening the belts, but I don't think I did that last time. Please remind me of the procedure, so I can document it for my Shop notes.Maybe it should go into the how-to section. I was also thinking that instead of just painting the notch, I'll paint an inch or so of the balancer near the notch with white paint to help find the mark, then paint the notch itself with BLACK paint instead. That ought to make it easier to find the notch if some of the paint wears off. thxZ

OK, thanks guys. The wheel came off earlier, so somebody just drilled it out and put in a pin, and the little arm was rubbing on that, so maybe it threw things off a bit and now it's time to fix it all correctly

I would like to replace the hinges on the driver's door of my '78. On eBay, you will see them listed as Datsun 240z 260z 280z RH side door hinge set so you either ignore that one or look into the microfiche, which I don't have any more. Sometimes the later models have a similar part but are different than the earlier ones. In stead, I'll ask if they are all equivalent. thxZ

There is a guy in Wisconsin that can rebuild the heater control valve and the heater core for Datsuns. He rebuilds the stuff for a few Zed suppliers. The price is well below what you'll pay for a new one from a Zed supplier, and he usually will send it back to you the next day.

Heck no, the ashtray is for quarters. Last summer I counted $40 in there.

I used the A/C setting because you got more air flowing, but that was before we replaced all the vacuum tubes. Sometimes you need to keep the windows closed, but still have some fresh air flowing from the middle vent.

The guy just told me the "heater control valve" needs to be replaced. Jeff at ZCarSource tells me there are two valve there for heat and A/C control, so I need to get the paret from the tech to see what I need, but it's not the hose. I will get new hoses too. He says the heater core is about done too... We are bypassing the heater for now so I can store the car at home, but it will all be repaired.

The repair guy says I need a new heater control valve. Is there a replacement? How about a source for a good unit that doesn't take a week for delivery? As soon as you say "1978" tey tell you it's NLA...

I seem to have settled on the Rustoleum BBQ black paint, at least for this summer. I was looking at the dash from the passenger side ( for a different viewpoint) where it has more flatter areas, and I noticed that it has a nice, even sheen, with few 'hot spots' and was not too "black" which I think would make the cabin seem darker at bight. I'll call it a medium black" compared to the carbon black color mentioned earlier in this thread. I rubbed the paint with my hand to see if it left oily marks; it didn't. Rubbing with a paper napkin did no damage, but I did see a small scratch, probably from tossing my hat or glasses on top. I think it would appear normal for a classic, driven vehicle, unless you want perfection for show use.

Hopefully that's the case for me. Fortunately, I have water for coolant in the summer, and there 's a small leak in the floor; I think it's the rubber floor plg, which is not a big deal. I'll look into that before reinstalling the carpet to figure out what would be proper for that spot (or drain.)

I think that at this time in this discussion, that we can say that unless you can really find a place to truly "hide" a kill switch, the only truly hidden place for a switch is with you (in your pocket.) With the benefit of small, wireless devices, you can make sure that someone won't find the way you enable the car. You just have to be sure to always keep the transmitter with you or never lose it, which is another thing.

I found some dripping from behind the fan motor after I noticed the water temperature gauge was indicating very hot. It could be the water valve or the small hose that's back there. Which is more common to fail, the valve or the hose? BTW- I used a flush chemical earlier this Spring. but the effluent was clear, so I don'yt think it loosened any rust.

Since I am the only Zed owner in 100 miles, there won't any response to a sales ad. I figure that since I got a fender once via a reseller yard 800 miles away, the resellers have to be getting them from somewhere or stocking them.

I just got a new book called The Sport Car, It's Deign And Performance by Colin Campbell. It will be a few weeks before I can start reading it, but it sounds interesting, as it will probably discuss the body-on-frame type of cars, which the Zed isn't. Another book I considered getting was The Sports Car Engine, Its Tuning and Modification by Colin Campbell. It's not really related to the Zed's L28E, but it might be entertaining or informative in its own right.

OK, what was the purpose of having the fusible link for the starter solenoid? The L28 EFI engines just had a 16Ga wire, which is hardly the same. OTOH, there are TWO fusible links for the EFI there by the relay box. Did you disconnect a particular one, or was there no difference? It might be a good place for a kill switch connection- that is, unless the engine will still run, which it shouldn't, if the injectors weren't flowing fuel into every cylinder. I haven't checked yet, but if the injectors had a common wire, there's another place for a kill switch- and the injectors needed little current ( just a good 12V) to operate.

It would be better to just drop the whole mess off at an auto reseller, instead of having to deal with buyers and haggling.

The idea was to use one of the wireless relays to inhibit the starter. But for a 10A relay, you could put it on the ignition coil in stead, although I'd rather not mess with the coil- it could bite you at the worst time.

I have the check the specifications for my relay, but is that too much for the inrush? It's a 10A relay

I don't have a fuse link on the starter. There is the heavy battery wire, and a skinny wire that connects to a flat terminal on the solenoid. I was interested in knowing how much current is on that thin wire. when you energize the starter.

I have the body panels left from my parts car (a 1978) and I won't be needing them, along with all the lights and some other things. Since there is basically no way for the ordinary person to box and ship things like wings and bonnets, I thought that I could take all but the bonnet to a reseller for a bit of cash. Otherwise, it's only worth the price of scrap steel. Besides an automotive reseller, is there any other place that might accept good-condition Zed sheetmetal?

Has anyone measured the current draw on the starter SOLENOID wire while starting? It might be a good place to add a switch or remote relay.

I dunno exactly what you mean by that, unless you mean to replace one or both fusible links with special shunts that go to a switch of some sort. One idea would be a latching relay, like this one on eBay.But still, if you disconnected one or both of those fusible links, would the engine run at all?

I'd say it would run even less, or not at all, coming from first-hand experience. I had mine apart to clean it, then didn't get it solidly back together, and the engine wouldn't start later at a party. Fortunately, there was a guy with good eyes to spot the parted connector.Plus, with all those wires in that area, it would be easy to hide.

if you cut the power to the ECU, will the engine run?