TomoHawk

I got back from Mid Ohio vintage racing, and I noticed that one headlamp was out. I fund the problem: the one connector on the passenger firewall (it's a green one) was bumped by the storage container that I keep the spare stuff/junk in. I just moved the connector shells a nit, and the lights worked again. I'd say this is a reminder to make sure you have those wiring shields in place and in good condition, to protect those important connectors that carry the signals from the steering column-mounted controls. like headlamps & turn indicators.

I'm not worried about the wiring. I just don't want to burn up the relay that is making the circuit. Too bad those remote relays only use a cheap SPST relay. A DPST relay would like more like a normal part of the ignition system, and fool a thief. BGW- the Kiwis just won the America's Cup. They will be taking it back down under again.

I though that I could put a small bulb in-line to the sensor wire to see if it burns brightly or burns up. I could even try an LED, which only need a few mA to work. the LED would make the engine run badly tho.

the two leads that go from the distributor to an HEI ignition module or the factory ignition box would be a good place to cut into and add a kill switch of some kind, such as a mechanical switch or a remotely-controlled relay. I have a remote relay, and it has a 10A current rating. I think the relay would work well as theft-prevention, because it doesn't require heavy wiring, like the fuel pump does, and you can easily hide the thin wires in the wire bundle. I also think that there probably isn't much current in those two sensor wires, since they only control the ignition module instead of the current going to or from the module or coil. I just wanted to confirm the idea, before taking a chance at ruining a useful relay module. thxZ

Refer to: http://www.heatervalves.net/

I sent my valve to the guy in Wisconsin, and got it back, rebuilt, in less than a week. That and having the heater core repaired by a local radiator shop got dall the parts back together quickly and affordably. I'm still waiting on a set of new heater hoses, so that is the only bottleneck.

I also read elsewhere that the distributor clamping plate can be turned slightly, which might lead me to adjust the distributor incorrectly. Should I remove the distributor ad check the position of the plate and its screw? A picture of a correctly installed plate would be nice for reference. I wonder if I put that plate on upside-down? It would throw off the time a LOT. Icchh- I got a lot of work for tomorrow.

Higuys, I did this about 10 years ago, but today I put the timing light on, and with static timing, it was about 40 degrees! I don't remember everything you needed to do to find the timing notch on the balancer/pulley, but this is what I thought you needed to do: Take out all the spark plugs, and the engine should turn easily? For some reason mine didn't. I used a socket on the alternator bolt, and the pulley turned without moving the belt- there was a LOT of resistance. Should I engage neutral on the transmission? Did I forget something? I was considering loosening the belts, but I don't think I did that last time. Please remind me of the procedure, so I can document it for my Shop notes.Maybe it should go into the how-to section. I was also thinking that instead of just painting the notch, I'll paint an inch or so of the balancer near the notch with white paint to help find the mark, then paint the notch itself with BLACK paint instead. That ought to make it easier to find the notch if some of the paint wears off. thxZ

OK, thanks guys. The wheel came off earlier, so somebody just drilled it out and put in a pin, and the little arm was rubbing on that, so maybe it threw things off a bit and now it's time to fix it all correctly

I would like to replace the hinges on the driver's door of my '78. On eBay, you will see them listed as Datsun 240z 260z 280z RH side door hinge set so you either ignore that one or look into the microfiche, which I don't have any more. Sometimes the later models have a similar part but are different than the earlier ones. In stead, I'll ask if they are all equivalent. thxZ

There is a guy in Wisconsin that can rebuild the heater control valve and the heater core for Datsuns. He rebuilds the stuff for a few Zed suppliers. The price is well below what you'll pay for a new one from a Zed supplier, and he usually will send it back to you the next day.

Heck no, the ashtray is for quarters. Last summer I counted $40 in there.

I used the A/C setting because you got more air flowing, but that was before we replaced all the vacuum tubes. Sometimes you need to keep the windows closed, but still have some fresh air flowing from the middle vent.

The guy just told me the "heater control valve" needs to be replaced. Jeff at ZCarSource tells me there are two valve there for heat and A/C control, so I need to get the paret from the tech to see what I need, but it's not the hose. I will get new hoses too. He says the heater core is about done too... We are bypassing the heater for now so I can store the car at home, but it will all be repaired.

The repair guy says I need a new heater control valve. Is there a replacement? How about a source for a good unit that doesn't take a week for delivery? As soon as you say "1978" tey tell you it's NLA...

I seem to have settled on the Rustoleum BBQ black paint, at least for this summer. I was looking at the dash from the passenger side ( for a different viewpoint) where it has more flatter areas, and I noticed that it has a nice, even sheen, with few 'hot spots' and was not too "black" which I think would make the cabin seem darker at bight. I'll call it a medium black" compared to the carbon black color mentioned earlier in this thread. I rubbed the paint with my hand to see if it left oily marks; it didn't. Rubbing with a paper napkin did no damage, but I did see a small scratch, probably from tossing my hat or glasses on top. I think it would appear normal for a classic, driven vehicle, unless you want perfection for show use.

Hopefully that's the case for me. Fortunately, I have water for coolant in the summer, and there 's a small leak in the floor; I think it's the rubber floor plg, which is not a big deal. I'll look into that before reinstalling the carpet to figure out what would be proper for that spot (or drain.)

I think that at this time in this discussion, that we can say that unless you can really find a place to truly "hide" a kill switch, the only truly hidden place for a switch is with you (in your pocket.) With the benefit of small, wireless devices, you can make sure that someone won't find the way you enable the car. You just have to be sure to always keep the transmitter with you or never lose it, which is another thing.

I found some dripping from behind the fan motor after I noticed the water temperature gauge was indicating very hot. It could be the water valve or the small hose that's back there. Which is more common to fail, the valve or the hose? BTW- I used a flush chemical earlier this Spring. but the effluent was clear, so I don'yt think it loosened any rust.

Since I am the only Zed owner in 100 miles, there won't any response to a sales ad. I figure that since I got a fender once via a reseller yard 800 miles away, the resellers have to be getting them from somewhere or stocking them.

I just got a new book called The Sport Car, It's Deign And Performance by Colin Campbell. It will be a few weeks before I can start reading it, but it sounds interesting, as it will probably discuss the body-on-frame type of cars, which the Zed isn't. Another book I considered getting was The Sports Car Engine, Its Tuning and Modification by Colin Campbell. It's not really related to the Zed's L28E, but it might be entertaining or informative in its own right.

OK, what was the purpose of having the fusible link for the starter solenoid? The L28 EFI engines just had a 16Ga wire, which is hardly the same. OTOH, there are TWO fusible links for the EFI there by the relay box. Did you disconnect a particular one, or was there no difference? It might be a good place for a kill switch connection- that is, unless the engine will still run, which it shouldn't, if the injectors weren't flowing fuel into every cylinder. I haven't checked yet, but if the injectors had a common wire, there's another place for a kill switch- and the injectors needed little current ( just a good 12V) to operate.

It would be better to just drop the whole mess off at an auto reseller, instead of having to deal with buyers and haggling.

The idea was to use one of the wireless relays to inhibit the starter. But for a 10A relay, you could put it on the ignition coil in stead, although I'd rather not mess with the coil- it could bite you at the worst time.

I have the check the specifications for my relay, but is that too much for the inrush? It's a 10A relay