TomoHawk

I replaced the injector screws with socket head screws so I could get them out easily if I need to.

What exactly did they replace or install? You should be able to read a part number off the invoice of the part, and look it up somewhere. If it's a 78, then the alternator's charging circuit runs pretty much straight to the battery (see attached diagram.) If the alternator was not working with a charged battery, you'd still be able to start the engine and drive a little before the battery drained to the point that the engine stalls.

Mine hasn't changed over the last 3 or 4 years, according to the tester at the local e-check station.

DeOxit products also include a lubricant/protectant. If your fuses are corroded green, I'd look into the reason for that. It could be getting wet, which is not good for the car in general.

In addition to what you ar doing, I try to install my fuses wit the flat side toward me, so I can see the reflected light. It helps to see if the fuses is burned. Be careful when you instal or remove the fusebox cover! as for WD-40, it's not designed to clean electrical contacts, like DeOxit is. WD stands for "water displacement" as in fixing up a flodded distributor or alternator. But because it has some solvent in the formula, it can dissolve certain things, and is a handy household cleaner/lubricant. Consider it as a lubricant, but NOT an electrical contacts cleaner. If you need to degrease electrical connections, there are more appropriate products for that.

Great. I'll wet down a few Datsun/Z shirts, and send you some photos, and you tell me which one you like best. BTW- I think it ought to be a precedent that people only wear Datsun or Z shirts at the conventions.

No problem, arg. I think you are 'on the path to enlightenment' here. I like to break things down in to the engine mechanical, the ignition, and the fuel injection systems. Then break it down further from there (battery/charging, vacuum, etc.) After working on mine for so many summers, I've found that the 280Z fuel injection Bible can help you keep things in top working order. I just go through the trouble-shooting section to verify that every input to the ECU is right and assuming the ECU itself is OK, then the engine should be just fine. If not then go after that item. If you really do have a problem with the ignition system, there are trouble-shooting documents for that too. IMO, All the talk about oxygen sensors is just not appropriate right now, until you have an engine that is working just right. Most people come equipped with their own AFR sensor, and it should get you headed in the right direction. Otherwise, just check all the wiring & connections, clean everything, and try not to overdo your driving until everything is just right. Don't forget to keep a detailed maintenance log of maintenance, repairs and upgrades/replacements- of everything, even wiper blades!

At the 2008 ZCON, I don't think there was anything for S30. It was all 300ZX or 350Z stuff, and not all of it was sold during the convention either.

Why bother with an Oxygen sensor or those fancy gauges? The E. F.I. system, is so simple that there is almost nothing to adjust or that is adjusted. You only need to adjust the AFM bypass for the proper CO reading (at the tailpipe) and that's it, IF it needs to be adjusted, if ever. The FSM doesn't even have the word "oxygen" anywhere! If your water sensor, TPS, and AFM are giving the correct resistances, and the wiring/connectors aren't contributing anything, then it should be right on the spec, like mine is. I'm almost expecting to be reading about somebody wanting to "chip" the ECU, like the "fuel injection experts" have mentioned to me, twice so far... BTW, on a 280Z, you can adjust the fuel injection system with a swiss army knife too.

Mine was rusted over, like Sarah says. I removed all the plugs to find the TDC, and the mark was there at about the zero on the indicator plate. If you can, de-rust the indicator plate and get a little paint into the timing indicator notch on the pulley.

If you wish, there is a collection of documents for testing, adjustment, and general service here: http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html You should also have the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your car to refer to: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html Also, the "280Z Fuel Injection Bible" is commonly helpful to many: http://www.xenons130.com/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

Regarding the DeOxit treatment, DeOxit D-100 is the best stuff to use at first. D-100 will literally 'melt' the corrosion off electrical contacts. DeOxit D-5 is more of a maintenance product that you should use on your connections annually.

Do you make house calls?

Is that set just for the 240Z? I have a 280Z

I am working from the back to the front, because the worn bushings are causing the tires to wear fast, and some other stuff. If you are going to to the rear bushings, you should probably also get some spindle pins, etc., because they are usually rusted in and have to be cut to be removed. For some detailed write-ups, go here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm

I got the energy Suspensions kit for 280Z and it had the bump stops. My feeling is that much of it was the universal type parts. the worst thing is that you don't get the strut insulators, and there's a 3 or 4 month wait to get those.

here is a trailer for the movie, which was supposed to come out last September? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63nPL-6I09A

Hi cozye, I am going to get the front insulator bearings because they are inexpensive and the local store can get them. Hopefully, from the condition of most things under the car, the strut insulators will be fine for a while, as they are $200 each and not easy to get, new. It's more likely the springs and shocks are pooped out anyway. In any case of the condition of things, I'm starting in the back and working forward, with the engine & engine bay last.

I'm just going to stay with a stock-type setup for the bushings. The biggest thing that I am concerned about is that the body guys don't have to guess at how to install the replacements, because there isn't much information on that.

Sorry, I meant to say it's missing the L26 engine, which has an extra 200cc of displacement, not cylinders.

That seems to be the first big problem. It's missing 200cc of displacement. Why did it get a smaller engine than it originally had?

I see. Somehow you got the wire between the little spring and the solid part? Why not just use a little pin or rivet in stead of the wire?

FYI- There's another "Mitty" event, but it's not a race or speed event. It's a map-based road rally- no race track involved.

I just smile to those people, as they are probably coming from a different perspective as I am (with my 280Z.) My Z is NOT a Porsche, so I wouldn't even compare it, just as a Sunfish isn't a sailing-yacht, bit it's just as fun (to me.)BTW- I think Katz's English is getting better? the first time I know of some improving their English by typing things on an Internet discussion forum. :laugh:

Mark, can you please describe what you did, and is it still working? If I can repair my 280Z locks, I'd be happy to reinstall them, and take the 240Z key off the keyring.