TomoHawk

Before the last time I was at an SCCA autocross event, I looked up the class my stock 280Z would go into, class D IIRC, but at the event, the registration guy had me go into class E, which was fine, since I was the only one in that class on that day

You should contact Energy Suspensions about this. They have a live chat thing with the tech guy, and he seems friendly. With my kit, I got two bushings for the transmission crossmember, which are cylindrical like the control arm bushings.

Hi Dave, I already have the Energy Suspension urethane "Master Kit" of bushings for the 280Z. It has most everything but the strut insulators, the (strut bearings for the front struts) and front diff mount. Both front & rear suspensions will also be getting new coil springs & dampers. I plan on using all the urethane bushings in the kit for the rear suspension, and all but the T/C rod bushings for the front suspension. I'll get rubber bushings for the T/C rod later. I don't know if there is a stock-style urethane unit for the diff, and a stock rubber type is on back-order at most places I tried, so I will have to us the original one (maybe it's not that bad off) until I can get a new one, and install it next Spring, but I thought I could get it now while the whole rear end is out.

My car is getting a new set of bushings (Springs & dampers too)- Rear suspension first, then the front. When I get to the front suspension, I might even get the engine out to refresh that too. I have everything I think I will need but the strut insulators and the diff mounts. I have the mustache bar bushings. The strut insulators are back-ordered and 'might' be in stock in a few months, but I think I can get the diff mount (stock style, but urethane is OK) very soon. The question I have right now is can I hold off until Spring and do just that one then. The "good" news is that I tried the screws holding the hard lines under the car, and from all the undercoating there, the screws turned easily and so weren't rusted in solid thxZ

I'm surprised no one thought of this for this year's anniversary. 40 years - 40 states? It sure would be a lot easier to do the Z rally in each state in stead of the entire lower 48. You'd be getting 40 clubs involved, too, in stead of just 3, which seems more do-able.

I was browsing around Amazon for some book for Christmas, and I typed in Datsun 280Z, and it found a song by that name from Heloise & the Savior Faire. It's not a bad song, but not from the classic rock style either. thxZ

I just called Eibach, and they pretty much confirmed that they don't have anything to offer for Datsuns. In fact (per their representative) their Nissan offerengs only go back to 2007. I was asked to contact "Motorsport Industries" to order the springs. They only have the progressive lowering springs- no Pro Kit springs. Is there anything else that would suffice? I 'd like to order some asap, but not from MSA, unless it's on sale. thxZ

I was going to order my new ones, and MSA is the only place that has them listed in the catalog. the only thing is that they were $220 each, and are out of stock for 3 or 4 months!

I'll have to get the tail lamps out over the winter to look at it, and if it's not draining well, probably give the parts exposed (to water) a coating of bedliner stuff. IMO, if you just wanted to extend the little gutter-thing that goes down the sides of the hatch opening, you'd also have to cut out the lower corners of the hatch or at least trim off the lip, so the water will drain off the back to the ground, instead of going around/behind/through the tail lamps.

Aren't shade-tree mechanics just wonderful? The kind with the side-clippers and open-end spanners?

We're pretty much just preservationists and restorationists here, so you may not find all that you want. But you are welcome to hang out here and learn about all the rest of the car.

Is this the video that some mentioned last Spring, when somebody (a music video director) was looking for Zs?

Mine were not working last night because the fuse was just slightly loose, (playing with radio fuse) so make sure your fusebox has a good grip on the fuses and give it a light hosing with DeOxit 100 and/or 50.

for the AFM, I would suggest buying carefully from eBay, unless you have a more trusted source, like a local Z boneyard or auto salvage. I got my FSM from Courtesy Parts. It wasn't too expensive, and comes on a beautifully- made CD with a good case. I printed out the sections as I needed them (rear axle/suspension, frt. axle/suspension, body, electrical, etc.) and bound them with spiral wire so it will lay flat. I keep a copy of the files on the computer so I can search them. Don't forget a spare notebook from the dollar store to write your own notes, sketch electrical circuits, etc.

Wow- All classic or antique cars. It's good to see that this historic race (rally?) is still going on. Are they required to wear body armor or bullet-proof glass?

That's how billboards are built. You could change the design or the colour at will, or maybe to blend in with the surroundings? Maybe even make the car look like a different car?

SMD is for Surface Mount(ed) Device, which is what all the little resistor & capacitor (and L.E.D.) 'chips' and ICs are on circuit boards lately, instead of being soldered the usual way. for reference: http://led.linear1.org/surface-mount-leds/

I looked into hiding the brake lamp behind the cabin lamp, but since I can see the black rubber window gasket, I don't think it will be possible. Having a single row of L.E.D.s looks to be the smallest design so far. thxZ

If you do try an L.E.D. in the map lamp, please let us know how well it works.

If you used all L.E.D.s inside a headlamp case, you could probably make a beam that "turns" by lighting or dimming the lights in certain areas on the assembly. The optics would then bend the beam in a certain direction. I don't think L.E.D. technology is improved enough to provide enough light for that yet, IMO.

What is or would the sideways illumination be like with those? I'd appreciate some cornering light in the outback areas. thxZ

The timing with a warm idle on a 280Z should only be 10 degrees.

The L28 engine (at least on a '78) has a timing indicator plate with advance markings in 5-degree increments, so you don't need the timing tape like V-8 engines usually use. If you can locate the timing notch on the balancer pulley, and give it a little dab of white paint, you'll be fine. You might clean off the timing indicator a little (passenger side of the big bottom pulley.)

Ohio is only about 22 minutes away in a Z

If you any great pictures or views of fall foliage, you gotta come to Ohio...