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TomoHawk
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Everything posted by TomoHawk
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Are you referring to the cabin light on the roof behind the seats (dome/cabin lamp) or the lamp above the vents on the dash (map light)? AFAIK, You can get new replacement cabin lamp units, but not the map light. There are also L.E.D. inserts for the cabin lamp that is supposed to give more light, but I haven't heard of any kind of improvements for the map lamp. About all you can do is make sure you have good electrical connections with clean contacts everywhere. I use DeOxit 100 for the latter.
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Do they plug the holes where the bolts were or leave them open?
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If I can get some plastic coolant jugs (they are moldable with a heat gun,) I'll make a mock-up of my brake light tube idea, and trim it to fit between the cabin light and the glass.
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It was the other way around. It flashed quickly once then on steady. It made me think the brake switch was glitchy until you fully pressed the pedal..
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Can you see the enclosure (the box) in the mirror? I think I will not use the tube-like enclosure because it might be too directional, and only a car directly behind would see it. I would have to make a mock-up and check that. I've noticed certain cars have taillights that flash quickly, then go on steady. Is there a name for that?
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I like the L.E.D. idea, especially for the fast on-time of the L.E.D.s but I'd add an enclosure of some kind, to keep the glare minimized. Probably a tube-like thing with rounded ends, like a squashed pipe. and the angled opening to match the window. Also, I would like to keep the whole thing no lower than the moulding for the cabin light, to keep the entire rear window clear.
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The only "Bad" thing about the full cap is that you have to get the whole thing off to replace the light bulbs on the speedometer or tachometer.
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Normal epoxies don't go to high temperatures, but there are some that will. You just don't find those at the local hardware store.
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People notice my exhaust manifold all the time, even though t's so dark down under the intake. They suggest I get a new one, and have it aluminized or chromed. But if you do that, you might as well do the rest of the exhaust system too.
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Did you know Mrs. K. is about 30 years younger? We got to meet her at the Ohio regional via skype. WayTo Go, Mr. K!
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I'm not a fan of powder coating, so all I did to clean up my intake was to clean it by scrubbing with some degreaser then an etching wheel cleaner. It brightened up significantly and people noticed and liked it. I also enlarged the drain holes so they wouldn't get plugged so fast. It already has a heat shield, so I don't worry much about the heat from the exhaust. Do you have plans for the exhaust manifold? Some local rodders will blast it clean, then have it plasma-coated with aluminum, and polish.
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Steve- How visible is your install to something like a Z car judge? thxZ
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I agree, but it shouldn't make the bright spot go sideways when you go to the high beam.
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I have a supply of both DeOxit 5 and DeOxit 100. I first use the DeOxit 100 to 'melt' away the corrosion on the metal part (pin/blade/slider) and then use the DeOxit 5 for lubrication and regular maintenence. I also used the 100 on all the connector pins on the connector rack (behind the glovebox) and it just improved things in general, starting with all the lights. It sounds like your problem may be mechanical, but keep the overall DeOxit treatment in mind for later.
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The spot on my lamps are pretty much round, so aiming the light more to the right will only light up the berm, where you don't want to be driving. After i get a lamp out, we will see what can be one, if anything.
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Is it possible to mount a headlamp at angle? When I put in the high beams, the bright spot goes up and to the left, say about 11 o'clock, which would definitely blind oncoming traffic. According to aiming documents I've read, the bright spot should just go straight up, as it does in my daily car. I think all I would need to do is turn the lamps a little to correct the aim, but is it possible? thxZ
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The oem gas cap is supposed to have a vacuum relief system in it, so there's no need to have any other way to allow air into the gas tank. the carbon cannister is different thing tho.
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I think we, or almost all of us with the L28E engines, know that. But occasionally, an MAF or MAS sneaks in as it did here. Hopefully, our OP is updated on that. One person on another website, asked me to point out where the MAP is, then earnestly claimed that the E.F.I. engine cannot operate without one.
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I didn't know the '76 had an MAS?
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There are some favorites on my list, but most every song has a tempo that is beneficial to your attention and reflexes (believe it or what?) I think it's about 140 - 160 or so, but it's what you'd call a 'snappy beat.' You find songs like that in rock, jazz, pop, country, even classical.
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It might not be as simple as just replacing the fuse links. Each one is for a different circuit or circuits, and you need to be careful which ones you put together, as in post #1, for safe driving.
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If you could get one in Polyrethane, it would be great. I bet everybody would have them on. the only problem is that no one makes those for the S30, and the only ones you can get are steel, used and probably rusted too. thxZ
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Dime Quarterly T/C Rod Bushing Fix - Successes?
TomoHawk replied to sir_hammer's topic in Suspension & Steering
You'd only need something like that if you're into serious competition. Those ball joints are said to make the ride rough, hence the rubber bushings, which work just fine. -
Take the Bazooka, point it out the back, nd crank it up! :laugh:
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I've got every one on your list, Will, except "Who Wouldn't Wanna Be Me" plus 900 others. You'll find only real, classic ROCK music in my collection. Alice Cooper to KISS to ZZTop... BTW, I sent Mike a copy of my original "Z Music" disc that we worked on a few years ago.