TomoHawk

Thanks for all the links. I'll look for the MyClassicCar (with Dennis Gage) thing. So all this time I've been driving a Nissan? But the title says Datsun, and so does the insurance and the owner's manual! Isn't it interesting how they all have literally the same thing to say? I wonder who wrote the original story? thxZ

If anyone can grab the videos, and the press releases, could you please share it, or a link? Neither www.USAtoday.com nor www.Autoweek.com had anything concerning ZCCA or Nashville thxZ .

Your turn Will??? What Will's part for next year then? Mapping all the beer outlets in the area?

See you all next year, in Savannah. I think Will has a smile on now...

NOt only will it handle so-many amps, but it also acts like a slo-blow fuse, taking some time before finally melting. Otherwise, it would pop every time you put on a heavy load like headlamps or charge the battery.

Aren't fusible links classified by the gauge instead of amperage? The material is the same for all, and the gauge of the (wire) is what determines how much it'll take before melting. We can figure (or they did it for you) how many amps by those two factors.

This is the secondtime here I've read about someone thinking that too many CCAs might hurt the car. What makes you think that?

I'm about 1/2 finished with the first splash guard. There was a longitudinal crack at the top of the arch. and a couple cracks at the front, where the bolt is, and near where the headlamp wire goes through. I first tacked the crack together using GOOP, and then used a cut-up antifreeze jug to form a patch, or backing piece. The patch was heated to the softening point with a heat gun, then placed over the crack, and formed to shape with a dry rag. The patch was then glued on the back of the part so it will not be seen. The patch was oversized to provide strength to the old, thinly-made splash guard. I will do the same with the crack at the front; you just have to move quickly to get the backing piece to form well to to the splash guard. Since the clips for the fender arch lip are not available, I will probably use a clip for electronics, such as below.

Did you ever get your picture of the spoiler? thxZ

So far that's what I've been reading. Gas is gas, and it all depends on the additives added by the distributor.

What is the correct colour for automotive gasoline made for use in the U.S., then? thxZ

At that price, why don't we all get one?

That is really a cool machine & process. If only you could make a gorgeous supermodel for me? Otherwise, maybe a few people could sit down with a hug bunch of Z parts and digitize it all for posterity, max molds, etc.

Mine had no pins; It was on with double-sided tape. The holes must've been filled & painted over, as I don't see any evidence of them on either side of the bonnet.

I think the kid is catching on.....

You might also want to get a copy of the "280Z Fuel Injection Bible." It has a lot of explanations and plain-english trouble-shooting stuff. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf I printed mine and had it bound. The AtlanticZ club website has lots of interesting tech stuff that also helps explain things, and hot to do things yourself.: http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

If you can spray the Duplicolor stuff on right, You can get it smooth enough to look nice, (the splash guard is too "plastic-looking,") but not rough & runny like undercoating. And that brings me back to the original question of what should the texture of the inner fender splash gaurds be like? I still lean towards a wrinkle-type finish, but the chevy/hot-rodders insist on a smooth glossy finish (like Chrome. :tapemouth )

The product I was going to use on my splashguards is the Duplicolor Truck Bedliner TR250 (http://www.duplicolor.com/products/truckbed.html) and you can get it in a 16 oz. spray can, quart & gallon for spray-on, and a roller kit. It has a texture a little leather, goes on somewhat thicker than paint and stays flexible. Finding it would be the difficult thing. The usual places I have gotten it from before only stock the Rustoleum products now, and the Walmart website doesn't have any automotive products at all.

Please tell us exactly what the Rustoleum product is? It might be the same product I used on the sill scuff plates.

A trip to the recycle yard and a hole-saw will take care of those. I'm thinking down the road when I will need to remove the forward bolts to change a headlamp. How should the forward-bottom edge (under the headlamp) attach or seal to the body? I found it hanging down, so it could scoop up dirt or water as you drive. I'll be installing E's drainage tube on both sides, btw. thxZ

Oddly, I get a surprising number of people looking in my front wheel wells at the more fancy car shows. Maybe they're expecting some fiberglass parts like a kitcar? Yes it's plastic, but after so long (FL car) it's gotten slightly inflexible or brittle (especially in the corners and the wheel flange where the clips are.) I gotta handle it with great care while cleaning. I was thinking of using the same kind of treatment for the rear wheel wells so they match. thxZ

Ok, So I've gotten the one inner fender, or "splash shield" as Mr. Humble calls it, off the car and after a couple more cans of brake cleaner, I'll have all the dried-up rubber stuff off. There are a few cracks in the old thing, so I think I'll put a patch on the backside with some GOOP. I can probably mold a patch for a corner with some heat and a piece from a 2-liter bottle, or is there a better material you can get easily, like at a DIY store? The holes where the attachment bolts go have been enlarged to the size of the bolt heads, so those will need a reinforcement too. But after I get all the repairs done, do I need to coat the exposed part with something? Probably something flexible with a satin finish. Some black bumper paint maybe? thxZ

For those that didn't go this year, Mr. John Morton was there signing his autograph.

Don't forget to ask permission to scan, of course.