TomoHawk

the BCDD (Boost-Controlled Deceleration Device) injects a little air when you let off the gas pedal to prevent a cloud of smoke coming out the tailpipe. It is electronically controlled, and can't be adjusted. Maybe it can be disconnected & removed, but I don't know if it would affect the way the engine runs. I suppose if it leaked air, it might raise the RPM.

Onmy '78 280Z, the door lock tumblers are fine, but the arm connecting the barrel to the locking thing seems to have worn out the hole in the arm where it attaches to the lock barrel. To unlock the door, you need to turn the key, then wiggle it up & down a some to get the lock knob to come up. Sound familiar? I've looked at it when I got the car, and the door panel was off, and it (the lock machanism layout) does't look a lot like the parts diagram, so I think the lock might be a later style ('79?) unit. the car is supposed to be an 11/78 build. My idea is to make a new arm of steel or whatever to replace the one with the worn-out hole(s). Can anyone tell me if the lock mechanism is made of steel or aluminum? If aluminum, it would explain the wear & looseness. Getting in there would be fun too.

That middle section (button?) should pop out somehow, right? Maybe the threaded holes goes through to the button. if it did, you could use paints or whatever to restore the color. be carful if you try to remove that button.

My 280Z with Fed. emmissions didn't have the dashpot, nor do I see any room where it should be located (I'm constantly comparing mine to other "stock" cars.) It runs fine nevertheless. I'm wondering about the BCDD myself lately ( as in do you really need that?)

You are right, Lance. You wouldn't want to put chemicals or solvents on the helmet that might get into the resin it's made of, and weaken it. And like Arne said, a helmet should have painting info with it, so you know what you can use. thx

I was thinking about painting a helmet a different color because sometimes you can get a good deal on one of a color you don't like. Maybe to match the color of the car.

Can you paint you SA 2005 helmet or add graphics to it? What is the basic painting process, and are there any limits? thx

Thx Virto I had the dizzy out last winter, to clean & rebuild. I did everything but a new pickup & vacuum pot (NLA). The cap is new also. Spark timing night need a little adjustment. As for electrical connections.... The tech that checked out my car after I got it out pulled ALL the injector connectors off (they had to be attached using RTV stuff. I think I could pull them again, and tighten the connectors a little. Injector-side pins were clean & shiney when I last looked. I've been checking all the connections as I seem to be hearing a vacuum hiss, but can't tell from where. I've checked, serviced, or replaced many things, except the hose on the underside of the intake manifold to the block. thx

I'm (only?) getting about 35-37 PSI of fuel pressure at the fuel rail on my 280Z, and I'm wondering if that's an answer to the low power problem I seem to be experiencing (slow acceleration from a stop). There seems to be some power at highway speeds- enough to get 60 to 85 MPH within a reasonable distance for passing, but acceleration & merging with highway traffic is kinda slow. I put a can of SeaFoam through the engine, so I would assume it 'breathes' better than before, but still no improvement in power. The injectors were also serviced (and were pretty much matched for flow) about a year ago. So right now I'm looking for reasons that would explain low fuel pressure on the fuel rail, like blocked strainer on the fuel pump ( can you buy new ones?) or low voltage to the fuel pump, or even the 6mm hard lines. thx

Steven, I barely had to stretch my rubber duct over the intake tube. It is snug enough and the rubber 'sticky' enough that it stays on there fairly well by itself, but you still need a clamp for safety and mechanical & effeciency correctness. BTW, I used a newer worm-screw clamp on the filter itself and the tube end of thte rubber duct, since that end is "new," and you can't see it well, but a wire (correct name?) clamp on the AFM connection (for period-correctness).

I tried out some "wheel cleaner" on my ZX 5-spoke rims the other day, and they came out kinda nice. I used the Eagle-One cleaner with the acid in it, and I had polished the wheels last spring. Just used Mothers mag polish, and it really shined. I was dissappointed that even the 600 grit sandpaper couldn't take out the grooves in the wheel spokes (from the machining process to make the wheels.) thx

As far as I can tell, none of the wiring can be moved, or I wouldn't want to move it much because the connections are fragile or funny that way. I have noticed all the many rubber-covered steel things in there to hold the wiring, but there are a few loose things like bundles of wire that I feel should be protected by panels or tied up but aren't. I'm especially concerned with the wire bundles behind the center panel. There's not much rroom, and the PO seems to have (untwisted?) certain bundles to make patches, and so the wires are not gathered to well or even tangled. Even the carpet near the lower pass. heater output is pulled up, and there's no documentation about how the wire bundles there should go and how the carpet should lay. It may even be a crappy aftermarket carpet that's cut badly and doesn't fit the car around the heater. I did get a fusebox cover from eBay and I put it on. It's nicer, but not as nice as the newer cars. I need to go crawl around some correctly restored/maintained stock 280Zs.

Try some citrus spray cleaner, rag & water to see what comes off. then you can decide if you need sanding, and then polishing. Have a nice stiff brush (paint brush with shortened bristles) handy to get into the crevices. While you're out shopping, get some Metal wax to protect your shine (also good on chrome).

You can watch the TV or you can listen to the live webcast at: http://globecast.workscast.com/ I starts at 16:00 France time 17 June

The interior rivets use a 1/8 inch pin. The ones for the outside finisher (on my 280Z) use a similar rivet with a screw center instead of a ordinary pin. I believe there's a picture around here somewhere... thx

My interior taillight finisher has the removable rivets in it (the ones without the centre pins.) They come out with some effort, but you usually bent the head in the process, unless you have a tool for that- like a modified tack remover. The real trick is to handle that panel without breaking it. thx

I measured the pins and the holes, and it is 1/8 inch (3.2mm) and a 1/8 inch gauge pin fits in the hole perfectly. So whatever you use to put in there ( nail, kabob stick) it needs to be that size. Personally, I'd prefer to use something that won't rust or cause rusting- like a steel pin or nail. I'll see if I have any 1/8 carbon rods or maybe the hobby store has 1/8 plastic rod.

The pin in the center of the rivet is 1/8 inch (3.2 mm)

My local autoparts store (Murray's) has plastic rivets of different kinds, and some had screw centres. If you think they re expensive, buy them in quantities through eBay.

I used the SeaFoam through the vacuum tap for the heater. I should probably have used the vacuum port by the throttle-body. I got some thick drak-gray smoke at first. I thought somebody driving by might stop to say "Hey your muffler is smoking!" and the same on the freeway when I drove it for about 20 miles to get it to quit smoking. I plan on a few more treatments. Should it smoke like that even with a 'clean' engine? I'll probably give a bottle or two for my brother's old tractor & my sister's riding mower. thx

Does anybody have a good picture of the area around the fuse box of a 280Z? I got a new fuse box cover, but there are loads of loose wires & relays in the area, and I don't know if I should let them hang or should I tie them up neatly to hide? thx

I got some 4 mil plastic from the Home Depot- 3x50 foot roll. The plumber's putty didn't work at all tho. It just slides off when I put it to the paint. I ended up using clear "Hockey tape." I could re-=do the tap/putty/caulk later if I want to. thx

The dry cleaning bags were suggested in the Wick Humble book. I know they're really thin, but free. Tyvek would be perfect, if it was translucent. Maybe the DIY store has smaller rolls of the heavy plastic? thx

What glue? You need to have something that won't get hard, and comes off if you need to. I was thinking that gummy stuff thatt is used to stick credit cards to the paper. YOu need to be carefull with tape, to pick one that won't dry out. I don't want to have to be pulling the door panels every spring. thx

the PO used TAR:angry: :angry: to stick the moistrure barrier on the doors of my car. Since the plastic just fell away. I'll put on new ones from dry-cleaning bags. But what's a good stuff to use on it? thx