TomoHawk

I'm (only?) getting about 35-37 PSI of fuel pressure at the fuel rail on my 280Z, and I'm wondering if that's an answer to the low power problem I seem to be experiencing (slow acceleration from a stop). There seems to be some power at highway speeds- enough to get 60 to 85 MPH within a reasonable distance for passing, but acceleration & merging with highway traffic is kinda slow. I put a can of SeaFoam through the engine, so I would assume it 'breathes' better than before, but still no improvement in power. The injectors were also serviced (and were pretty much matched for flow) about a year ago. So right now I'm looking for reasons that would explain low fuel pressure on the fuel rail, like blocked strainer on the fuel pump ( can you buy new ones?) or low voltage to the fuel pump, or even the 6mm hard lines. thx

Steven, I barely had to stretch my rubber duct over the intake tube. It is snug enough and the rubber 'sticky' enough that it stays on there fairly well by itself, but you still need a clamp for safety and mechanical & effeciency correctness. BTW, I used a newer worm-screw clamp on the filter itself and the tube end of thte rubber duct, since that end is "new," and you can't see it well, but a wire (correct name?) clamp on the AFM connection (for period-correctness).

I tried out some "wheel cleaner" on my ZX 5-spoke rims the other day, and they came out kinda nice. I used the Eagle-One cleaner with the acid in it, and I had polished the wheels last spring. Just used Mothers mag polish, and it really shined. I was dissappointed that even the 600 grit sandpaper couldn't take out the grooves in the wheel spokes (from the machining process to make the wheels.) thx

As far as I can tell, none of the wiring can be moved, or I wouldn't want to move it much because the connections are fragile or funny that way. I have noticed all the many rubber-covered steel things in there to hold the wiring, but there are a few loose things like bundles of wire that I feel should be protected by panels or tied up but aren't. I'm especially concerned with the wire bundles behind the center panel. There's not much rroom, and the PO seems to have (untwisted?) certain bundles to make patches, and so the wires are not gathered to well or even tangled. Even the carpet near the lower pass. heater output is pulled up, and there's no documentation about how the wire bundles there should go and how the carpet should lay. It may even be a crappy aftermarket carpet that's cut badly and doesn't fit the car around the heater. I did get a fusebox cover from eBay and I put it on. It's nicer, but not as nice as the newer cars. I need to go crawl around some correctly restored/maintained stock 280Zs.

Try some citrus spray cleaner, rag & water to see what comes off. then you can decide if you need sanding, and then polishing. Have a nice stiff brush (paint brush with shortened bristles) handy to get into the crevices. While you're out shopping, get some Metal wax to protect your shine (also good on chrome).

You can watch the TV or you can listen to the live webcast at: http://globecast.workscast.com/ I starts at 16:00 France time 17 June

The interior rivets use a 1/8 inch pin. The ones for the outside finisher (on my 280Z) use a similar rivet with a screw center instead of a ordinary pin. I believe there's a picture around here somewhere... thx

My interior taillight finisher has the removable rivets in it (the ones without the centre pins.) They come out with some effort, but you usually bent the head in the process, unless you have a tool for that- like a modified tack remover. The real trick is to handle that panel without breaking it. thx

I measured the pins and the holes, and it is 1/8 inch (3.2mm) and a 1/8 inch gauge pin fits in the hole perfectly. So whatever you use to put in there ( nail, kabob stick) it needs to be that size. Personally, I'd prefer to use something that won't rust or cause rusting- like a steel pin or nail. I'll see if I have any 1/8 carbon rods or maybe the hobby store has 1/8 plastic rod.

The pin in the center of the rivet is 1/8 inch (3.2 mm)

My local autoparts store (Murray's) has plastic rivets of different kinds, and some had screw centres. If you think they re expensive, buy them in quantities through eBay.

I used the SeaFoam through the vacuum tap for the heater. I should probably have used the vacuum port by the throttle-body. I got some thick drak-gray smoke at first. I thought somebody driving by might stop to say "Hey your muffler is smoking!" and the same on the freeway when I drove it for about 20 miles to get it to quit smoking. I plan on a few more treatments. Should it smoke like that even with a 'clean' engine? I'll probably give a bottle or two for my brother's old tractor & my sister's riding mower. thx

Does anybody have a good picture of the area around the fuse box of a 280Z? I got a new fuse box cover, but there are loads of loose wires & relays in the area, and I don't know if I should let them hang or should I tie them up neatly to hide? thx

I got some 4 mil plastic from the Home Depot- 3x50 foot roll. The plumber's putty didn't work at all tho. It just slides off when I put it to the paint. I ended up using clear "Hockey tape." I could re-=do the tap/putty/caulk later if I want to. thx

The dry cleaning bags were suggested in the Wick Humble book. I know they're really thin, but free. Tyvek would be perfect, if it was translucent. Maybe the DIY store has smaller rolls of the heavy plastic? thx

What glue? You need to have something that won't get hard, and comes off if you need to. I was thinking that gummy stuff thatt is used to stick credit cards to the paper. YOu need to be carefull with tape, to pick one that won't dry out. I don't want to have to be pulling the door panels every spring. thx

the PO used TAR:angry: :angry: to stick the moistrure barrier on the doors of my car. Since the plastic just fell away. I'll put on new ones from dry-cleaning bags. But what's a good stuff to use on it? thx

You remembered right! I haven't seen a trans blanket since the last time I was browsing summitracing.com. OTOH, even F1 cars are now using what you could call an automatic trans, but with a fully-manual shifting system. BTW, Mid-Ohio also has defensive Driving schools ($350) using Honda Civic EX coupes :sick:

Sometimes all you need is long pants, shirt&shoes, an approved helmet and to pass the tech inspection, but just having the experience of so many runs (low speed or not) will be to your advantage. Mid-Ohio Performance Course: http://midohio.com/school.aspx They seems to emphasize speed-shifting, braking & shifting, etc., so I wonder if they would let you use a car with an auto trans? Maybe I should look into that full-manual shift kit to go with my 4-speed shifter...:beard:

I got an email from the Corvette club that invited my Z club for racing, and this is what it said: "If you are a NCCC (Corvette Club) member, then you need a High Speed License (run 10 low speeds over 3 weekends). If you are not a NCCC member, you must show a competition license (SCCA, NASA, etc.), completion of a performance driving school (Mid Ohio, Track Time, etc.), or results from 5 previous auto-x event days." Mid-Ohio is about an hour away. The Performance Driving School )PDX) is probably the most acessible thing for most people, since you can use your own car. There isn't a PDX school session happening between now and the next race event, so I will be there for support. I'll be needing new brake pads and such any way.:surprised HTH

thanks Steven, but that's only the general forms for getting into regular racing. Nothing on high speed license there. Maybe I can contact the race course to see what they recommend.

SCCA has no info on "high speed license." and I can't tell what class you'd call local club racing ( like Corvettes or Porsches).

Air pressure? Tires inflated with higher pressure are usually biger than the same ones with less pressure.

Some race courses require you to have a license to get on the track. A flyer would say something like "members must be High Speed Certified" or "All SPORTS CAR drivers must show proof of prior high speed experience or training." What does that mean? Can you get something like that for a Z? Can you get one by driving a Z around some race course, or do you just take a written exam, or both? From what I've read, you take some desk cours(es) and some driving instruction, using real a race-prepped car. For local races, like with Corvettes or Porsches, I rarely see anything that's race-prepped. The drivers just have jeans & long-sleeve shirt, and a helmet. thx thx

To begin with, your 16 inch rims are 2 inches bigger than the 14s. everything else being equal means the overall diameter (or height) is more too. the height is calculated by adding the diameter of the rim, plus twice the sidewall, which is a percentage of the tread width. for example, if your tire is a 245/45-16, then the treadwidth is 245mm, and sidewall is 45% of 245. You'll need to convert that part to inches either first or after. total height is (245/25.4) x .45)*2 + 16 = 24.7 inches compared to the other one which is 23.0 inches height. fwiw