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TomoHawk
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Everything posted by TomoHawk
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untilJoin us for the 7th annual Midwest Z Heritage Show in Kent, Ohio. Car Show is at Summit Racing...this year's event offers the traditional ZACO "Keg-N-Clean" parking lot social Friday and Saturday night and a new optional car museum tour in Canton, Ohio following the car show. The Hampton Inn in Kent, Ohio is hosting us this year and we're expecting a great show (hopefully, great weather...) and alot of Z cars. 8) Download the form and preregister for this year's event. We're looking forward to seeing the folks from ZROC, CincyZ and other local clubs in attendance to show their cars' best in battle for the Midwest Z Travelling "Club" trophy. Registration Form Download: (right-click & choose "save as") http://www.clevelandzclub.com/MWHeritage_2006_RegForm.pdf
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Your common wire on the light connector should be the +12 volts from the battery, andthe relays should control which ground wire is connected to the chassis.
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Well, they'll just have to go looking for tougher challenges or car shows, then. And we'll be there to cheer them on.
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My gf lives in North Tampa, and she & her dad keep suggesting I move down there... I'd just like to get a job up here (Ohio) for a while, so I can tie up all the loose ends before I do any moving.
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thanks Lon, I thought of gold because it won't get oxidized. My other option would be some aluminum soldering rods (the kind you see a guy fixing holes in soda cans), but that won't stick to ferrous metal. I guess I'll have to sandblast, and get out my brzing stuff. thx
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I just got a good oilpan for my L28 off eBay because the one on the car is dripping oil. At the last oil change, we looked at it ( followed the oil drips & hosed it with cleaner) to find what the problem was. the leak was directly below the oil sender, but I don't think that was the culprit. It looks like there are some pinholes in the oilpan, maybe from rust? Do you think I could repair the leaky one and sell that? I was thinking about sandblasting then silver solder. Could you solder both the outside & inside? Gold would be better, but also more expensive. I could even use JB Weld, but that would probably show, and not look good. Opinions? thx
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Good one Vicky and Scott! IMO, it's easier to really go all-out on an S30 than the 350, which has so much junk, tubing, wires, etc. You can't even see the inner fenders! And never mind about the interior. And that's why an S30 has all that much more potential ( like a artist looking at blank canvas). I like the stuff you've done!!! I would also like to see a 350 stripped down to the bare minimum under the hood. or anywhere else.
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I will!. It doesn't hurt to get some opinions, like you would for any body shop or paint shop. Maybe the paint job that's on there is the cheap type that only getsthe car sold.
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I firgit to mention that you can even get a deduction for the wrong bolts, but that depends on the other things too.
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I saw a neat tool on the Eastwood website, that will measure the thickness of your paint, so you'll know if it can take any sanding.
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What did the Frt License plate frame look like?
TomoHawk replied to TomoHawk's topic in Body & Paint
I'll try to get those screws out next week, but it won't be easy(screw slots look stripped). Do you thinj I could get or make a license plate fram to bolt into those holes? I measured, and you were correct, as the distance between the holes is less than the U.S. plates. I thyink an off-set bracket would work. thx -
My car could probably use a cheap paint job to hold it over until I do the whole body job. What will a place like MAACO paint? Like will they do the door jambs, the hatch sides, etc., or will they just mask off the windows & spray what is left? I first thought of just doing the top & fenders, but there are chips & scratches all over. Some rust around the windows too. the top is starting to show light areas, which might be (white?) primer! The fender have llittle dark spots that remind me of freckles, the vent panel feels rough, and other stuff. thx
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I bought a set of mirros from MSA, and the local Autozone, et al, hadthe samething for 1/3 the price. You probably need to make sure that you get the exact same one that were on there.
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Make sure it was a kind of wheel that was offered at the time the car was manufactured. You only get the 1 deduction for all 4 wheels, if you go that way.
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Yes, the type A:B dry chemical units are mostly sodium bicarbonate,but still not recommended for cars because they are corrosive to the point that it'll get into everything, and it it will damage the aluminum on the engine if you don't clean it up immediately. It is also not recommended because you should not breathe it in. The newer water-based stuff is better than the dry powders, as it is initially like a foam to smother the air, cool the hot materials, and prevent re-ignition. You can spray it on yourself with no harmful effects, and it cleans up with plain water. It sounds like a kind of ultra-sudsy soap, although they aren't telling, but that's what did for years after college (I was a soap chemist).
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Have there been any new developments in the media used in fire extinguishers? I recently looked at a number of units, from Kidde to FirstAlert, and anything with a 10 B:C rating had a dry powder media. So if I'm right, dry powder is corrosive and messy, and not very desireable for use on valuable cars. The only thing that would be OK to use on a Z would be the FireAide product, but those only come in little 16 oz. bottlles, and is only rated 1A:10B. If you had your choice (or requirement), what would you carry in the car? thx
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Are you sure you're both talking about the same kind of tank? There may be differences between years, ljust like other things
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Maybe that's why there were reports of the stuff leeching- because it hadn't hardened enough. A few extra days to harden isn't such a price to pay for another 30+ years of excellant service. If you give it a few more treatments, maybe the steel shell could rust away and leave the plastic liner? ROFL
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My AFM was similar to yours. I got a puff of black smoke when I give the throttle a quick jolt. The Nissan guy who 'fixed' it said he just opened it up and cleaned well the electrical contacts inside and ooutside. The dirty connections increases the resistance and fools the controller. If you are using a non-OEM afm, then make sure the resistance values are correct for the different amounts of swing for the flap. In general, on such an old car, be sure to check electrical connections for corrosion as you work on your car. Your may have more or less than the usual amount tho. Spring tension: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/calibration/index.html AFM adjustment: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html
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One of the problems with something like a tank liner product is that it leeches into the gasoline after being put back into use. Let us know how you think things go. thx
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Everybody send him your gas tanks... (kidding)
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Don't forget to replace all the hoses on the fuel tank since you have it out, and it's easy to get to.
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I've got slow speed bavk on my fan, so I'm going to leave it on that settin until I can fix it. Thia makes me agree with Steven that there is a gear in there that's loose or something.
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Getting the rubber connector on was easy. I put my fingers through on the inside if the curve, then hooked it on the tube and stretched the rubber on. Like stretching socks. No lube used at all, except for when I wanted to turn the rubber to a different position.
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Now that I got my intake tube on, I'm trying to figure out if it's any different or better.. Assuming that the aluminum tube & the rubber connector are doing their best, I'm wondering if the 'cone' filter is good enough to really allow air to flow better. It's a kind of a cheap filter with a red filter element, the base is chromed and on the narrow end is a chromed plate with a hole in the center, and a smaller innie-cone in there. The reason I'm wondering is that I took the fiilter off and the engine RPM went up, so I concluded the filter was 'restrictive.' I proved it to myself by putting my fingers over the open tube, and the engine RPM dropped accordingly. Should I switch to a (better) K&N type cone filter? Should there be a 'performance' difference in the length or taper of the cone? thx