TomoHawk

thanks Lon, I thought of gold because it won't get oxidized. My other option would be some aluminum soldering rods (the kind you see a guy fixing holes in soda cans), but that won't stick to ferrous metal. I guess I'll have to sandblast, and get out my brzing stuff. thx

I just got a good oilpan for my L28 off eBay because the one on the car is dripping oil. At the last oil change, we looked at it ( followed the oil drips & hosed it with cleaner) to find what the problem was. the leak was directly below the oil sender, but I don't think that was the culprit. It looks like there are some pinholes in the oilpan, maybe from rust? Do you think I could repair the leaky one and sell that? I was thinking about sandblasting then silver solder. Could you solder both the outside & inside? Gold would be better, but also more expensive. I could even use JB Weld, but that would probably show, and not look good. Opinions? thx

Good one Vicky and Scott! IMO, it's easier to really go all-out on an S30 than the 350, which has so much junk, tubing, wires, etc. You can't even see the inner fenders! And never mind about the interior. And that's why an S30 has all that much more potential ( like a artist looking at blank canvas). I like the stuff you've done!!! I would also like to see a 350 stripped down to the bare minimum under the hood. or anywhere else.

I will!. It doesn't hurt to get some opinions, like you would for any body shop or paint shop. Maybe the paint job that's on there is the cheap type that only getsthe car sold.

I firgit to mention that you can even get a deduction for the wrong bolts, but that depends on the other things too.

I saw a neat tool on the Eastwood website, that will measure the thickness of your paint, so you'll know if it can take any sanding.

I'll try to get those screws out next week, but it won't be easy(screw slots look stripped). Do you thinj I could get or make a license plate fram to bolt into those holes? I measured, and you were correct, as the distance between the holes is less than the U.S. plates. I thyink an off-set bracket would work. thx

My car could probably use a cheap paint job to hold it over until I do the whole body job. What will a place like MAACO paint? Like will they do the door jambs, the hatch sides, etc., or will they just mask off the windows & spray what is left? I first thought of just doing the top & fenders, but there are chips & scratches all over. Some rust around the windows too. the top is starting to show light areas, which might be (white?) primer! The fender have llittle dark spots that remind me of freckles, the vent panel feels rough, and other stuff. thx

I bought a set of mirros from MSA, and the local Autozone, et al, hadthe samething for 1/3 the price. You probably need to make sure that you get the exact same one that were on there.

Make sure it was a kind of wheel that was offered at the time the car was manufactured. You only get the 1 deduction for all 4 wheels, if you go that way.

Yes, the type A:B dry chemical units are mostly sodium bicarbonate,but still not recommended for cars because they are corrosive to the point that it'll get into everything, and it it will damage the aluminum on the engine if you don't clean it up immediately. It is also not recommended because you should not breathe it in. The newer water-based stuff is better than the dry powders, as it is initially like a foam to smother the air, cool the hot materials, and prevent re-ignition. You can spray it on yourself with no harmful effects, and it cleans up with plain water. It sounds like a kind of ultra-sudsy soap, although they aren't telling, but that's what did for years after college (I was a soap chemist).

Have there been any new developments in the media used in fire extinguishers? I recently looked at a number of units, from Kidde to FirstAlert, and anything with a 10 B:C rating had a dry powder media. So if I'm right, dry powder is corrosive and messy, and not very desireable for use on valuable cars. The only thing that would be OK to use on a Z would be the FireAide product, but those only come in little 16 oz. bottlles, and is only rated 1A:10B. If you had your choice (or requirement), what would you carry in the car? thx

Are you sure you're both talking about the same kind of tank? There may be differences between years, ljust like other things

Maybe that's why there were reports of the stuff leeching- because it hadn't hardened enough. A few extra days to harden isn't such a price to pay for another 30+ years of excellant service. If you give it a few more treatments, maybe the steel shell could rust away and leave the plastic liner? ROFL

My AFM was similar to yours. I got a puff of black smoke when I give the throttle a quick jolt. The Nissan guy who 'fixed' it said he just opened it up and cleaned well the electrical contacts inside and ooutside. The dirty connections increases the resistance and fools the controller. If you are using a non-OEM afm, then make sure the resistance values are correct for the different amounts of swing for the flap. In general, on such an old car, be sure to check electrical connections for corrosion as you work on your car. Your may have more or less than the usual amount tho. Spring tension: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/calibration/index.html AFM adjustment: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

One of the problems with something like a tank liner product is that it leeches into the gasoline after being put back into use. Let us know how you think things go. thx

Everybody send him your gas tanks... (kidding)

Don't forget to replace all the hoses on the fuel tank since you have it out, and it's easy to get to.

I've got slow speed bavk on my fan, so I'm going to leave it on that settin until I can fix it. Thia makes me agree with Steven that there is a gear in there that's loose or something.

Getting the rubber connector on was easy. I put my fingers through on the inside if the curve, then hooked it on the tube and stretched the rubber on. Like stretching socks. No lube used at all, except for when I wanted to turn the rubber to a different position.

Now that I got my intake tube on, I'm trying to figure out if it's any different or better.. Assuming that the aluminum tube & the rubber connector are doing their best, I'm wondering if the 'cone' filter is good enough to really allow air to flow better. It's a kind of a cheap filter with a red filter element, the base is chromed and on the narrow end is a chromed plate with a hole in the center, and a smaller innie-cone in there. The reason I'm wondering is that I took the fiilter off and the engine RPM went up, so I concluded the filter was 'restrictive.' I proved it to myself by putting my fingers over the open tube, and the engine RPM dropped accordingly. Should I switch to a (better) K&N type cone filter? Should there be a 'performance' difference in the length or taper of the cone? thx

take a read of this document on cleaning the electrical connectors on a Z. It's mainly about the techniques, but it shows the location of many of the important engine connectors and a few grounding spots on a fuel-injected Z engine. Still need to find the chassis & wiring harness grounds. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Well, mine is only 27 years old now, but I'm constantly cleaning connectors & pins. I don't really have any problems with the headlights being dim- they are pretty bright at any engine RPM. The only connectors I haven't gotten to are the ones on the lamps themselves and the ones buried high behind the dash. But it helps to know where the grounding points are under the hood & on the chassis (in the back.) The wiring diagram only shows where the ground tails are on the harness. thx

I saw a show from Two Guys Garage where they were checking the cables on the starter & battery, and what they did was to measure with a digital voltmeter, using the lowest volts range, the difference in millivolts across a connection. Then they determined that one of the cable ends was bad with too much voltage drop, so they replaced it. My intent is to find & check grounding points to see where I can improve the electrical system, especially lights, but I think it would help the ignition system and fuel pump too. I just need to find out where the ground points are on the chassis & engine. Black wires? thx

That's what those two odd screws are for on the left side of the front bumper, except mine are rusted and the slot in the head doesn't look too strong. So since you are required to have a license plate on the front in my state, I'll probably need the plate frame too. Except the parts CD doesn't show a good picture of the front license plate frame. thx.