TomoHawk

I have seen the new head units with the plug for the Ipods. I hope eventually more MP3 players will adopt a common interface besides the USB for connecting to stuff. If you re-encode the P3s into 64 kbps, you should double the capacity. According to the info you read on the product packaging.

The newer units are coming with the FM tuner. But you'd say, "why would you need an FM tuner in the car?" It's for when you go portable. Put the player in the beltclip, plug in your earbuds, and you get radio. Would you trust a used Ipod? It seems to me that if it was working well, I'd not want to sell it. thx

I would like some suggestions for an MP3 player... the Ipod mini & nano are very nice. I'd go with the mini because the display is bigger (easier to read while driving). Others I'm aware of are the Creative Zen, and RCA Lyra 2300 series. My criteria: PLAYLISTS (up to 20 tracks, minimum, EACH) 1 Gb memory (keeps price relatively low) replaceable and/or rechargeable battery (Alkaline, MiMH, or NiCd ) "big", easy to read display (while bouncing around in a car) easy-to-use controls(for menu navigation) 1/8 inch mini-jack for connection to radio (or portable amp/speakers) FM tuner (option- nice for portability) microphone and voice recording Adjustable output volume Equilizer settings (ex., Rock, classical, Jazz, Flat) USB connector (obviously) A rechargeable battery pack is nice, although you have to carry a charging adapter, so I kinda lean towards Alkaline cells, because you can just throw a few spares in the armrest/ashtray). I think the Playlists, memory, and battery are the top 3 criteria, respectively. I'm using a basic one (RCA Lyra) with 638 Mb,and I only use 3 of 8 buttons(Play/pause, Next, prev) while driving, but only 1 playlist thx

About time you did that. I remember reading so many comments from you already...

Gary is right, that you need to be consistent with your driving habits to see if the mileage changes.

Garry, I think you should go check to see you took your pill today. Or see if you need to get a stronger pprescription. j/k Did you ever wear one for a time? they get hot in the summer, even cycling/motorcycle helmets, and that is not fun.

Helmets (even cycling helmets) have those vents on the top or the back, but you don't really feel the air flow or any coolness. So the forced air helmets gave me an idea: What about using a small fan ( 5v computer fan?) to extract the warm air from inside the helmet? It could easily be fixed to the top or back vents, and a 9-volt battery gives power for a whole day- even if you leave it on for a whole day. I doubt if it ever got loose, it would be a dangerous object. There would probably be other, more dangerous things loose in the car than a fan which weights 1.5 oz. (50g). thx

I had the brakes looked over while the tires were changed, and the guy told me that one rotor (R.F.) was "thicker" than the rother? Test drive by tech guy says the car pulls right when braking, but I'm used to it, so I don't notice. I think I can confirm the difference when driving in the rain- the rt. frt. wheel will lockup & slide with hard braking. Should I get the rotor in question turned down to match the other? Or is there some other thing that should be checked ? thx

Here's a picture:

You can replace the entire pivot, if that's what you mean, but finding one is the hard part.

The more expensive covers you get a auto stores are the kind that 'breathe' meaning they let moisture OUT, but not in. Like Gore-Tex fabric. I noticed that just covering the car with a cheaer cover traps the moisture, and that's not good, so I won't use that cover any more, except if it's going to rain for 3 days straight (to keep the water from coming in the windows, doors and hatch. FWIW

Hey- Let's not get too overboard and start planning anything too definite, unless Mike says so. remember, jmark just wanted to know IF there are "reasonably priced 240Z or Classic Z jackets..."

That sounds a lot like my idea. You'd have to use a small embroidered Z, probably on the front( like on the T-shirts).

I replaced the old rusted fuel injection rail with one from Pallnet, but I plumbed it with 1/4 inch steel brake line for the supply & return. I'm thinking that the injectors can't flow enough fuel to give the car real power like it should (starvation). It just doesn't push you back into your seat that much when you floor the pedal. Should I replumb the fuel injection rail with 5/16 or 3/8 stainless? I would also used polished tubing, and maybe even compression fittings, but the pressure regulator and connections to the supply & return to the tank get 5/16 (7mm) rubber hose, which was oem. thx.

I took my 78 280Z to the local Nissan Dealer, who has a couple old-timers, per se, and the one guy hooked up the temp sensors and tuned up my air flow meter to where I'm getting 22 MPG! No gas smell out the tailpipe! Money well spent, even though I went through the service manual myself. I think they have a service manual with some 'extra info' in there. It was money very well spent. I hope you have such experts in your area. thx

The simplest thing we could do as a club would be to use the same screening from the T-shirts and put them on a jacket. No additional start-up costs, besides buying a bunch of jasckets and calling the printers. Do you think I could just take my club shirt & a jacket to a printing place or seamstress/patchmaker? How much would a giant pach or computerized embroidery cost? Good idea for the coming "colder months" when you can't wear a T-shirt outdoors; unless you're in TX. thx

Which car stereo connector would you use in an S30? There's one for Ford, GM, etc. I'm not sure what receiver (AM/FM casette, hopefully with an 1/8" input jack) , Probably just a simple 2-channel cheapie, but I'm going to use a connector, so I can get the console out if needed. thx

I used a heat gun with a wooden scraper. The metal putty knife scratched the primer-coat. Then some wiping with solvent.

78 280Z- Is there a place that you can send certain engine parts to, like the dizzy or alternator, so they can be rebuilt & polished? thx

The tail ends of my hrome strips seem to be turned out. Is that normal, or should it keep the same orientation for the whole length? How could I twist the trip to get it to like up nice? Isathere a clip on the back end that broke maybe? thx

Those rollers inside the door shouldn't be moved from where they originally were. A little lube might be needed (if any) but it should be fine like it is. Look for another reason why the squeegee isn't making a good seal. It might not be mounted so the rubber is touching properly.

I believe everything that needs a relay, has one from the factory, except the headlights. The only things that might need an add-on relay would be accessories that you add on.

That switch in on eBay sometiumes. You'd get a deal on one of those.

To be honest, my engine area isn't as pristine as you might think. I focus on the mechanical stuff, not the looks. All I do is clean it with some tire spray, and if I see any grime, I clean that off too. You don't see anything shiny under there, and that's why I lose major points at car shows. It seems people think that all the parts on sporty car engines are chromed! I'll eventually get the dizzy and alternator out to clean, and I'll only give them a light scuff with some steel wool.And don't forget about all those cad-plated parts that are corroded by now. They are still a little shiny, but not like the chrome stuff you see on muscle cars. Even the paint isn't the way these "judges" expect it to be. My car was a dark brown under the hood originally, so I keep it that way. If I did a total restore job I might repaint it something glossy, only so the dirt washes off easily. I think the pictures that are already included in this topic are about the best you'll get. There's no way to get a "picture" of an engine area. You'll want a video or a whole bunch of stills of specific places to show your point. thx