TomoHawk
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Everything posted by TomoHawk
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Due to the age of the car, it will be difficult to find "a mechanic" who can diagnose the problem accurately. Current mechanics can measure the CO or HC content and tell if if it's in out out of spec, and they can only speculate on the problem, because their knowledge is only for the newer fuel injection stuff- even though it's similar to yours. I doubt of they can correctly diagnose the problem with your older car. I think your best bet is a certain Nissan dealer- call around to see if there is one with a guy that has "30+ years" experience with the older Zs.
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Plus like Gary and others have said, you can get the same power signals for the relays off of one of the stock headlight connectors.
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I know the original round connectors on the280Z were made by AMP, but you'd need a 25-year old catalogue to find out what the part # was to contact AMP to see if there are any floating around somewhere. Maybe there still is one that would plug in with some fiddling. I have some older electronics catalogues, and I will try to take a look-see what is in there from the AMP people... thx
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I'm kind of surprised that whever I see a flooded area, there aren't many ( or any ) people on jet skis doing rescues. I mean NewOrleans is fairly close to the ocean that people could easily tow one to the beach for the day. The same with Florida. Maybe they don't have as many parked in garages as I see in the burbs where I live?
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I have used VB very successfully, and with one exception when I gave them the wrong part number (for a 280Z 2+2 instead of a 280Z), I always got the right part, and at a good price- less if not the same as from other sources. There are probably other sources, like Z Specialties, where you could get a great deal on miscellaneous oddball pieces, but on the common things, VB has been great. Of copurse, therre are times when I will order from MSA et al, for specific stuff.
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Enrique was making a headlight harnes for a 280Z?? If not, who was it? I know of the one for the 240Z, but why not something good (or correct) for a 260Z/280Z? Can't we just call VB and have them get the people who make the headlight harness for them to just adjust things to make it right? I mean all it probably needs is just longer wires. Maybe even include those rubber grommet things that go through the inner fender? thx
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It looks like a round can with dual tips and i love the way it looks. I want mine like that (but linda quiet- I still have good hearing ) thx
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Nice cars, Hypertek. Do you know what muffler that is on the black car? thx
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Me too. BTW, My gf's name is Katrina (Kathy)
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I have a different rail fromPallnet. He includes two pieces of bent aluminum bar to mount the rail to the intake. My pressure regulator is connected to the oppposite end from the inlet, and mounted in the center, about the same location as the oem regulator, for looks. The pressure gauge is next to it. It should not be too difficult to make your own mounts; the injetors and injector hoses should be enough to support the rail by themselves.
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I'd add that the 280Z doesn't have a mass air flow meter- it's just an air flow meter. You should also make sure that the connections to the ECU are good by tracing the lines to it. The way I did it was to connect a wire from the Pos. battery post to one end of a sensor wire, and a lightbulb (test light to the pin on the ECU connector( test lightg clip to the chassi). The bulb should light up it the wire is good. Also, get yourself a copy of the 280Z fuel injection book, you will learn how simple it really is and how to check the important stuff. The problem you have isreally very simple, once you find it. thx
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Don't just clean the tops of things, either, clean the undersides. Like the underside of the fan shroud, or the fronts of the fan blades. I hope you already are cleaning inside the wheelwells. If you go to a show, the judges will look there (white-glove treatment?) and it could mean the difference between you and the guy next to you.
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Don't they make low pressure fuel pumps for carb'd engines? You could use the same L28 wiring if you wanted to. Otherwise, if you'd have to use your own wiring.
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Which DeOxit did you get? I'm talking about DeOxit 5 and 100 in the spray cans. I'll bet if you ask the guy at the Radio Shack about electric cleaners, he'll show you a can of tuner cleaner, or even WD-40. That's what you shouldn't get. If Radio Shack has DeOxit, it's probably in the small bottles ( Vlike 20 mL) or you have to order the one you want.
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I got my cap! I ordered it on Monday, and Troy (Too intense) said he would mail it out Wednesday, and it should arrive Monday. So I painted the bottom of the dash, removed all the gauges and serviced them, and reinstalled them. Painted the cap and the defroster plate, and a bunch of screws. I just need to glue on the cap and in the morning, it should be finished.
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If you want to try spray cleaners, I would NOT recommend the ones you get at Radio Shack or local electronics stores. Those things just have solvents for degreasing that are harsh on the wires and connectors, and don't addreess the problem of corrosion on the connectors. Instead, I recommend DeOxit 5 and 100. Use the 100% stuff (DeOxit 100) to get the corosion off, and the 5% stuff (DeOxit 5) to lube & maintain the good/cleaned connections. DeOxit Info
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I wouldn't know. I'm just going to bridge the pins to see if the thing will go up & down. A screwdriver should work fine for that.
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I dunno about selling it to you. The shaft is OK. but not too tight and slips back down some. Maybe using the motor would fix that. I'll have to extract it and let you know. I'm not in a huirry to do that- maybe over the winter. I understand about the switch. I was going to use as momentary rocker switch even though you suggested something different.
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My car will eventually be getting a new rear clip.
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I agree with what Mr. 240ZX said about Z cars, but I will add that you really CAN drag race successfuly with a stock, unmodified Z car if you want to. With ANY car, even. It's called "bracket racing" (You might already know about this.) You predict what your e.t. will be, and you get a few tries to hit your prediction (dial-in), and you go against others, in a staggered start according to the difference in e.t.s. If you hit your dial-in perfectly, You win your run. The guy with the best record at the end of the day WINS. thx
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I was just wondering if that old thing still worked. A patch wire is all that I"ll need to test it, assuming I can find the radio end of the wires. If it still works, I'll eBay it ($$!). I thought it was just a plain mast antenna, so I was going to just throw it away and replace it with an invisible window-mounted wire. thx
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I have a service manual. Went through it again and I found a couple things that will help. See attached pics. The answer is that connecting the right pins on the radio , you can get it to go up or down (if it still works). Thanks for reminding me to try sgain. :classic: thx
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Lance, My Mitchell's wiring diagram doesn't even have a radio on it so any info or pointer to a wiring pic would be helpful. I assumed there would be an arial connection at the antenna itself, but wasn't able to get the thing out, or get my eyes in there to look. One further question would be which wire behind the console is it and what do you connect to it, 12V? thx
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Tom- Jeramey asked about "Zs." NOT a 240Z, or 260Z or 280Z. So he left the door open for anyone to answer from any point of view. As for dreaming- I don't dream of things. I make a list or a plan, and I do some resaearch, read some book & watch videos, then I DO it. I gave Jeramey my observations, and what he might or should expect when you mention "racing" with a stock Z. I think he could come back with some specifics so we can answer his question(s) better. Why didn't you ask him to clarify things? Will- Remember 240ZX is one of those older crowds, who seem to be even more 'opinionated' than the usual Z-person. Maybe he expects me to have some kind of supernatural insight to anyone and everyone's questions that I can answer them in whatever style makes him happy. thx
