TomoHawk

I have a 280Z. Unlesss you massaged the engine, it's not like any muscle car. In fact, I use mine more for high-speed touring or autocross. It was designed more for sports GT racing and good gas miileage than fast launches. What do you mean by stock racing? Otherwise, I think a stock 280Z would go the 1/4 at about 15 sec., but some guys with L6 turbos can put down any ricer or vette, etc. HTH

I found out my 280Z has a power antenna ( OEM one, I think), but the radio isn't connected to it, AFAIK. Modern radio. 1. Can you disconnect the antenna wire at the antenna and hook up a plain one instead? 2. Can you activate it by jumping the lead near the radio or something? It might be neat to see if I can get it to go up & down, if it still works. thx

I agree that it's most likely assiciated with the voltage regulator. There's a relay inside it that opens & closes with the battery voltage to keep it up to correct volts. It sounds like for some reason under (higher amp load) that it cuts out, which is what drops the voltage reading, due to the headlamps being on.

On the 280, there are only gauges and lights for turn signals & high beams, so the car should be able to run with no dash. AFAIK, nothing on the dash connects to the ignition & fuel controller. And I don't think you can get cited for not having one. if you go along with traffic and the rest of the car is working fine, you should be able to drive around for a while- or until you run out of gas.

I was wondering, If you take out the dash., can you still operate the car? It would be very convenient to have the radiator guy take the dash out, and service the heater parts. While your dash is out to the restorer's shop, you can bring your car home avoiding storage charges & theft. Go over the wiring while the dash is away. Clean the connections to make your gauge lights brighter, undo/fix any PO wiring "patches," etc. When you get the dash back the radiator guy can reinstall it for you. They are supposed to be experts at that stuff. You can save your knuckles. thx

You're right Paul, To get those panels out: Have replacement rivets or rivet pins on hand! 1. Remove the dome light finisher panel. 2. Remove the 1/4 window surround panel(s), including any screw(s) and the rivets. 3. unbolt the hatch stay bracket from behind. There is a 12mm nut on the back of the bracket. Use a support for the hatch to keep it up. 4. remove the plastic seatbelt mechanism cover for the desired side(s). Then the 1/4 panel rivet(s) behind the cover. 5. There are some screws and rivets that in each rear 1/4 panel that need to be removed. 6. The driver's side panel will just pull out with a little bending. NO HEAT REQUIRED! 7. the passenger side panel is not as easy. First you must remove a U-shaped pop-out piece behind where the the hatch stay bracket was. Then you can remove that panel with a little bending. Assembly is just the reverse of the removal. BTW, behind the passenger panel is the fuel tank vapor/expansion tank. In fact some screws that hold the panel to the side also hold that tank. the backs of my panels were dirty because the rear quarters of the car body are open to the elements at the bottom. you might want to close off this area somehow. It's probably a major source of fumes. You might as well clean the panels front & back. I also painted mine. thx

Next Wednesday, I glue with confidence!

The 280Z has two hatch stays, and one bracket for each on each side. You need to remove those brackets to get the panels out without breaking them.

hopefully it won't fall off while I'm driving.

Well, it's been in the sun for the last 27 years, so it should be like rubber by now. Still don't know how to get the bracket off the hatch frame.

I wish I had the time to do that. I'd like to get mine covered ASAP, because I go to car shows every week lately. A crappy dash or no dash in the car is not good.

Too many good ideas for club Merchandise. Unfortunately, Mike would have to fill the garage to get a good price on them.

From the first picture it looks like you should expect to replact that one drocker panel- at least. You could do yourself a big favor by getting it to a place to ateam clean the bottom, or at least blast out all the dirt underneath to see what really is down there. Maybe you could get the owner to do it & split the cost of that.

That's how the stays are attached. How do you get the bracket off?

How do you get those plastic panels out of the back of a 280Z? I read you're supposed to remove the brackets for the hatch stays, but I can't figure out how to get those off, either. thx

Well, hopefully the one end is long enough to get the filter on.

Exactly. So you basically just glue the bottom-front edge of the cap?

I had some Ford ones, but my bro borrowed them for te Mustang. About 10 years ago.

What do you look for or what did you get for fender covers, if you have any. Also where did you get them? thx

This one looks interesting,and at a good price ($35) Ebay CAI Auction

It says that part # is a U-bend? how does that work for a intake tube. Even a J-bend doesn't sound right. thx

$48 is for the squeegees, not the felt strips.

I was going to paint that dash cap a flat (or satin) black color. Something that won't reflect the sun. Would you also paint the old dash to match?

Nope. Obviously, you don't know any upholstery guys in my area. I stopped by today to see if they could mount t he cap for me, and maybe cover it with the headliner material. Thgey guy showed me a sample. Airy foam backing with a thin cloth face. Obviously what the new cars are using, and not what you described. Plus, the guy says they use a "permanent" glue. I will ask for soft silicone blobs (dots) along the bottom edge only. Sooo... I ordered a full cap from Too Intense. Good decision? About the same price as MSA, and VB didn't have it in the catalog. thx

I just found some on Too Intense restoration. $48 for a pair, which is a good price (Compare to $160 for OEM). These should be the correct ones you'll need.