TomoHawk

Whatever hides dirt best and doesn't need daily polishing. I just spent 8 hours in the last week sanding the fenders ( looks like orange peel).

From the VB catalog, pg. 51, it says "this Heavy-Duty Harness is complete with separate relays for low and high beams and features OE style headlight sockets for easy installation with no splicing or cutting required." from the sound of that and and Prox's description, I would think that all you need to do is disconnect the old light connectors, plug in the new ones, hook up the battery wire & ground, mount the relays and connect the two wires for the switching from one of the old light sockets. They just made the cross-over section too short.

PrOxLaMuS, Do you think you could post a sketch of the wiring diagram for that VB headlight harness? I called VB to ask then if I could get a copy to see if it was right for my car, by they don't have that info... From what I know of the VB headlight harness, it's probably very similar to Dave's. It uses new connectors that plug directly into the back of the headlamp,totally bypassing the OEM wiring. Only there's just the one relay to power both lights. One relay should be adequate though, as a 60W lamp uses only 5 amps @12V, andthe relays go up to 20 amps. The 280Z uses a 10 Amp fuse for each headlamp, which is a little overkill, but maybe the Nissan engineers had a reason for that (like 7 amp fuses weren't cheap or common). You still have to get in under the fender and unscrew the back plate to the lamp to get at the back of the lamp tho. I always wondered about plugging into the headlamp plug that's just behind the radiator support. I mean the round plug (on 280Z) with the three round pins. I haven't had a chance to measure the voltage at that plug, but I assume it's not at the 13 volts the battery has. Since the headlamp power comes straight off the battery, I wonder where the voltage loss is from. In that circuit you only have the one fuse link, with its two (connections). Maybe just replacing that segment would be a significant improvement.

On a Z, putting the filter (inlet) in front of the radiator, or in that area of higher pressure makes sense to me. It might even help to put a metal fence (like a box) around the filter to trap more air and conentrate it into the filter, like ram-air. Just not to big a box, to block the air that's going to the radiator.

By moving it to one spot to avoid rain, you might lose a little air pressure. It's a compromise, unless you only drive on fair days. I think you have the right idea tho.

That's the problem with the MSA elbow. It's 90 degrees, and it was too short to connect to the AFM on my car. I think you'll want an elbow less than 90 degrees, so the filter is pointing away from the radiator support slightly, for clearance. You might even make the two ends a little longer, to put the filter farther away and even point it downward where the air is coming in through the grille. that's why you should always make a template before fabricating any parts. Besides, if it works, you can make one for ME.

I try to avoid drilling holes in a car, especially one that's prone to rust. The new hole is like a rust spot that's eaten through the metal, only you helped it 100 % of the way through, and now it's just going to spread sideways. I wo7uld recommend that you measure the angle you need for the elbow, because I think it's not really 90 degrees. Grab some cardboard and make a template.

Yeah, I want the tips to be horizontal. The MSA one is supposed to totally replace the muffler, is that what you have? thx

You mean zcarparts.com, not motorsport.com (Motorsport Auto) They have a dual tips thing that goes onto your regular muffler, but the only muffler with dual outlets is the horizontal kind for the ZX.

Yeah, that's the kind. why not just turn it? assuming the inlet pipe is in the right place.

Did you notice any outgassing? I'd like to do mine indoors, and don't care for any explosion hazard. thx

It should be no problem as long as the brake fluid doesn't boil. Contemporary brake fluid has a much higher temp., so there is less worry of boiling.

Mine has a rust spot on the engine side, where the bend is. I took it off to de-rust and coat it (white zinc?), so it will be off for a while, and it looks cleaner without, so I might leave it off.

What's the 'ono' mean, or is it a typo.? thx

When I got my 280Z, the steering rack bushings were dried out & loose, so the wheels shimmied some while driving. Dad (THE EXPERT) kicks the side of the front wheel, and when it moved, he immediately says "wheel bearings are shot." Totally wrong. New rack bushings fixed the shimmy. I did have the bearings replaced when I did the shocks tho.

I've seen a few 280Zs with the correct(stock) muffler that has two tips already on it. The tips bend down slightly, then horizontal on the end. Wish I had my camera then. I don't think dual tips would be too close to the end- I'd have to try it to see. Instead I think dual vertical tips might be too low and scrape. Did you know the VB sells/used to sell a Monza setup with vertical tips? It's just too bad the gas tank is so close to the rear valence that you can't get the ZX-style dual exhaust setup in there. Unless the other side is a dummy setup. I think in any case, I'd like to use resonator tips.

Obviously the heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the brake's Master Cylinder is there to keep the heat down, but how long could you go without the heat shield? I don't spend a lot of time sitting in traffic, so I figure there's always air going by to keep the temperature down. thx

If you used a round muffler, it wouldn't matter what the angle/orientation was (so to speak). there are a number of turbo-type mufflers out there. I'm looking for one that doesnt look like a fart-can, and hopefully with two tips.

Steven- What kind of tip is on that muffler? Ever look into get a dual tip?

I remember Mr. intakepro. His stuff is marginal at best. The thing he sent to me is NOT what I'd call a proper intaketube. Just an elbow and afilter on the end. When I tried to hook iot up, it was short, andhe just said I needed to buy his coupler tube, which would've been too short according to the dimension he told me. There are other vendors on eBay for cAI tubes, and you just have to try your luck on something not as mainstream as a Z. thx

Well, as we deduced, there aren't any of those ducts off the radiator support. the air comes from the air intake cowling area.

I am trying to locate the part where a vacuum lhose labeled W2 goes to. I think it's a control pod for the heater's air intake, to recycle cabin air, or get fresh air for heat. I looked in the FSM, and the mucrofiche files, and still can't locate the vacuum pod W2. Even the guy at the radiator shop says there isn't one! So he left it hanging, and when you put on the heat, you can hear the air sucking. ? thx

But, I'm pretty sure now that the fresh air to the lower vents come from the cowl intake. I was driving in the rain the other day, and the water was dripping out of the lower vents onto my foot. Maybe a shallow fence around the air hole would help keep the water out of the interior, and allow to drain instead.

Without a picture, I can't tell what part that refers to. Maybe the vent 'eyeballs,' or the tubes.

Know knead four a spell checquer hier! With so many people from all over the world participating, you'll get the hang of reading the other ways. Even English-speaking people here type with their own dialect.