TomoHawk

I also have #2 on my 78 280Z. A friend has the one with the T-fitting. Are both were considered "correct?" I think that's the important question Otherwise, you just want to run the fumes or whatever comes out back into the engine. Some people are removing the long hose and fitting a cone filter to the valve cover pipe. thx

The P.O.R stuffonly treat a small area. You also want to take care of the rest of the car. Like with an electronic rust preventer.

Oh, that. Mine wasn't working, so there's a new one in there now.

Is that the AFM? I would probably like to have one on hand, just in case.

I want one of those for my 280Z. But not for $100+

Don't forget to install an electronic rust preventer system.

There are others that are making their own fuel rails. Will is trying out his own design, so is the guy that runs www.cruez.com . You can even get the raw stock and drill & tap your own holes the way you want them even.

This is the l;ight that gose on the Porsche ($62) I think the angle is about right. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/new_images11/92863107000.JPG

Check the cable from the function lever to the heater unit. the cable moves the door for the defogger flap to move. If that's not it, check your vaccuum hoses, both to the engine and to the heater's function lever. Vaccuum makes the doors move to change the airflow. If you always get air out the middle, the flapper isn't closing off to the center, although a little air usually comes through the middle. thx

Good idea. If they want somebody to do the work FOR you, I would expect to pay extra for the labor. I would try to find a friendlier place. Unfortunately, the heat also brings out all the bees and other stinging/biting bugs.

Pick & pulls are funny places... You tell them you want a "part", and they ask you "What car?" when you just want to look for ANY part, like the brake light fixture. I had to do a LOT of explaining just to get some seats from an Eclipse. Same thing just for a shifter handle. I finally went to the Dodge dealer for the latter part. What do you say when you go to the piuck & pull, or do they know you well enough to just let you by? thx

Let us know what you come up with. I tried some googling, and I ended up at a website that sells porsche stuff (doesn't VB sell Porsche stuff?) and one model Porsche has a neat light that I think would work on a Z. thx

That's awfully close to 'restaurant,' so I like that idea!

This is what the gell looks like now

Oh no, no. no... No holes (plural) in the roof. You'll need three holes- one for wires, two for mounting bolts. Then the light will mess up the lines of the car. So no go on that idea. Lance's seems to be the best, attaching with tape or glue to t he inside of the window. It would be OK to run the wires along with the efroster, but then to the brake lights for power, not allo the way up to the dash harness. thx

When I hear of road-rage in my town on the TV news, they give you some advice: Just say "Have a nice day" and go on your way, driving correctly. Any words, or even looks, just tell the other person you're interested in mixing it up with him. Even if you are getting tailgated by an angry person, just drive according to the speed limit, weather conditions, and motor vehicle law. That way YOU are covered. Have a nice day.

Has anybody tried to install a 3rd brake light? Where would you put it, along the top? hiding the wires is the only thing to figure out. thx

Mine has cracks just behind the quarter qindows, about the sail vents. I think they weren't there when I got the car a few years ago, but are now there. No help or temporary fix is there? thx

Are you sure 6m x 7m is big enough? Put your two cars side-by-side, a couple meters between, and measure the length & width with a good amount of room all around. More room than you think- 1.5 - 2m should be about right. You'll be surprised how big things get when you are (like a quarter panel) in a tight area. Especially in front of the car. If you plan any engine work like pulling the engine out, you'll 2m or 3m room in the front. Your idea sounds fine just for storage, but I really think you'll find it very tight if you want to work on your car. I'm speaking from my experience building houses. I'm fortunate enough to have access to an airplane hangar for work & storage. (20 x 15m) thx

Will, you've been looking at too many fire-chickens!

I just met a guy at the cruise-in yesterday, and he has a business polishing parts. I think I'll take my valve cover over to him.

No, not a PITA! Repeat after me, " It's fun working on my car. Relaxing. " Of course, I did mine in the (Ohio) winter on the weekends, so no rush. I still recommend you send all the injectors to www.witchhunter.com. He will check the initial flow rate, clean them by media blasting, then flush them out totally & recheck. Mine were about exactly matched after flushing. Very affordable too. Oh- send him the cold-start injector too.

Sometimes, just hanging out and watching what topics other people bring up might answer your question. It's to your advantage to relax, use the search feature and listen in. thx

When I tool the old rail off, I just used an X-acto knife to cut the hoses free of the rail, then the hoses off the injectors. Then I removed the injectors from the intake and sent them to www.witchhunter.com to be serviced. BASICALLY: To re-attach the rail (barbed/stock injectors), I first put the hose pieces (8mm or 5/16 hose) on the injectors, and the bottom clamps & tighten those, then slide on the top clamps. The rail has all the barbs on it, so I just lined up all the barbs to the hoses and worked the rail into the hoses, then position & tighten the top clamps. Then attach fuel lines, etc. It's not that hard, but it has to be done right. All 6 hoses are done at once. It sounds like you did them individually, which I consider to be impossdible. Just takes some time. thx For reference on the procedure I used: http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/tech_tips.htm

First of all you can get different rails for the car, depending on what injectors you have. Contact Mr. Allnet for details. It wasn't very hard to put together, but It did take a lot of time preparing the pieces (hoses & fittings) so it was just right and it went together. Remember- trhis is a FUEL distribution system, and it's under HIGH PRESSURE, so it needs to be done right. Pallnet can get you all the fittings that go on the rail, but you might need some others to hook it up to the car, and some pieces you need to get yourself.Mr. Allnet can help you with that. Assembling the rail takes some time to do it right (injector barbs, pressure gauge, in & outlet), then you can mount it to the engine. You get brackets to support the rail. I used short hoses which were stiff enough to support the rail, so I don't have the brackets on (yet). Then you plumb in the fuel supply & return lines, and maybe some fancy pieces. I just had the engine tuned to specs by a Nissan tech, so I'm getting double the MPG of before ( very detuned/less MPG) but I don't feel any more performance, since the limiting factors are the injectors, pistons, valves (rest of the engine). thx