TomoHawk

I think of Asian rice as something with parsley & spices, and Mexican rice as something with crushed dried jalopeno & beans.

Soap-box time! I'd agree with some of the stuff that's wrong with rice cars. In my area, you can get a citation for playing your car radio too loud, so why not exhaust loudness too? And those park bench "spoilers?" I've seen a few of those, and I don't think they allow the driver to see out the back window. Window tinting is a safety hazard too. Stickers? the only stickers you should have are one ones from the facytor/dealer/ AAA, and a bumper sticker or two. Not only should they get a ticket, but the car's warantee should be voided (if it had one), and there should be a note put in with the OWNER'S Insurance provider. thx I'd put up with the factory spoilers, like the Subaru ones, and a "sporty" exhaust sound, but that's about all. "Keep America Beautiful"

Here is a document I think you will find very useful: Thrush BrandTurbo Muffler (pdf file) : You can change the size to your requirements.

Lance, the details of the airflow are hard to see (where the air goes through the chambers.) Could you provide the person with a sketch of the airflow? thx

You really should have the middle box there. It makes the exhaust sound MUCH quieter from 2000 RPM - 3000 RPM. The middle (or front) box is called a "resonator" at most exhaust places, and the rear one is called a "muffler." HTH

So how does the fresh air get to the lower side vents?

Oh- I fixed it. Ihad the flash different.

No, #32 I don't have either. Nothing under there but some wires & the steering column. The attached pics are from my car. The first one are the hood pull & vent pull knobs, the second one is the corner near the radiator Mike was referring to. Sorry, camera doesn't focus well in the dark.

Mine would be where #34 is to the right of the hood pull, and one in the same place of the other side.

Nope. None present.. Nor are there any holes in those places where the tubes would conect. the air must get in some other way on a 280Z. thx

Don't forget if you improve the amount of air that can get into the egine, you'll need to be able to get that much air back out. That's one reason why some people don't see any improvement- the exhaust system is more restictive than the intake. But I thin the Z engine (L28) has the intake box& exhaust pretty well matched. I saw a way to figure out the backpressure on TV once- one of those Sunday morning mechanic shows on Spike TV (with Sam & Dave).

Did the 280Z have those? I can't tell where the fresh air gets in. I'm not getting much fresh air coming through down by my feet. Or could there be blockage in there that I could fish out? thx

I would add to what Steven said, you want to make sure the elbow has enough length ( straight section) on both ends to reach the AFM (injected cars) and to reach far enough across so you can point it down from the hood to where the fresh air is (grill area). I have one of the 'simple elbow' things, but I can't use it because it doesn't even reach the boot/bellows/hose that goes into the AFM! thx

Could you all please give the details about the brand/model of intake you arereferring to? there are too many kinds on eBay of other places. thx.

Don't forget Dave's headlight harness is for a 240Z, not a 280Z like I have. When VB said it was "OE-Style", it meant that the connectors would plug directly to the lights, totally bypassing the original wiring. But like clete said, the wires were too short, and you can't get enough information out of them to know if you can plug it into a 280Z. Just too confusing. I don't think it's what I would want for my car. I think im my case I would be better off or now just getting the lamps out and cleaning the connector at the lamp base. Refreshing the fuse holder at the fuse block, the round connector near the radiator & the column connectors have already helped a lot. thx

Thanks for the input. Mine were the nickel TOKICO ones, but they started rusting after a while. The plastic wrap should keep the moisture out for a while, but I'll have to go find some new caps (with the wires). thx

They come apart, but you'd have to do some fancy bending so they go back together without all the ripples. If I could do it, I would have already, and re-wired them too.

Exactly. For some reason, people always go to look in that corner of the engine bay, and it's the first thing they see. I noticed this at a show I was at Sunday, and people seemed to be scared off by them. :mad:

I tried clear-coating mine with polyurethane. Obviously didn't work, and the heat and (humidity) did a number on them. New one should be fine, but I've seen two kinds- ones with the wiring, and ones without.

By shiney, you mean the cad-plated (goldish) ones? Aside from a new oil pressure (switch/sender) everything is plain aluminum or steel colored. Except for a few rusty spots on the throttle rod. :hurt: thx

On a 78 280Z, Are there any other caps that will fit the brake Master Cylinder? Mine are rusting from the heat & rain. Mine also have the wiring for the brake light, but I'm not sure I'll worry about that right now. thx

In packs of 2 (pairs).

Why not sell them in pairs? You'll get them off faster, and if the cost isn't that much, they should sell. Especially since people commenting here all wanted more than one. thx

How about "Ferroni Testosteroni: a car with a lot of balls.":)

The 250 testrossa started in 1959, then changed to the TR60 in 1960 and continued to 1964. I think Speed racer came out about 1966-67?