TomoHawk

If you ever have a situation when the link melts, don't you think the soldering will melt too? I've had joints melt under high-amp conditions on d.c. motors. thx

I think it's the TPS or something in the computer that's connected to the TPS, because when I disconnected the TPS, the engine worked normally. I will have to look at how the TPS or hooks into the computer, or what's associated with it. thx

WOT: wide open throttle, foot to the floor TPS: throttle position switch I'll be into the EFI bible book soon, or the FSM, after I try a few things. The only thing I wasn't able to do is to disconnect the harness from the ECU, to DeOxit the connector, or trace some wires. thx

I got my car back! I finally got the new fuel rail on, the fuel lines plumbed, and after I put the spark plug wires on (in the right order), it started right up. Just no cold-start valve (it leaks), but I can give it a crank or two until it starts spouting gas, just enough to start, then unplug it so I can drive. New cold-start injector ordered. New fuel & vacuum hoses too. So I got it to the gas station (on fumes) and on the way there, I noticed that if I push the gas pedal all the way down, the engine stumbles (loaded or not). 1/2 or 3/4 down is fine with good power, but all the way down stumbles with a burbling sound(runs rough). Could it be the ignition timing? With new vacuum hoses, it's got more vacuum for advance, so it could be advancing too much and stumble? I'm not so sure about this as it happens even with no load or on the freeway. Haven't got a timing light- I'll go borrow one Wednesday. Maybe the TPS switch? It's supposed to add gas at WOT, but that gives you a rich mixture which would still run smooth. Could still be the TPS because it's connected directly to the gas pedal. What else could it be? I had the AFM off to clean (Deoxit) the connectors & check the spring tension. Used DeOxit 100 on just about every connector on the engine. Just not the Headlight (ran out ) I will have to go check the connections again during the day. thx

Mine is holding down the floor in the airplane hangar.

Well, the 350Z does look like a frog, sorta. Maybe if we kiss it with a CEMENT TRUCK, it'll turn into something with a little less frontal area?

I thought the crack pipe goes better with the 350Z.

"Only the 240/260/280 count as Z cars"...................15 votes.............48.39% I see the RIGHT choice is pulling ahead in the poll...

that's why REAL CLASSIC CARS sell for so much in the U.S.A! That's why we make so much fuss about the word "stock" or "factory." Because when it's not-stock or not- (insert F-word) it's not really a Z, is it? thx

Ah, Marvelous Mystery Oil...... We tried to analyze it in the lab once or twice...

This topic seems like a no-brainer on this "Classic Z-car" website. I would thus assume that the S30 would be the automatic answer by all. I was also expecting some heat between some opinions because of how sensitive some people are on this subject. I personally prefer the older,"classic" cars because those are real cars that YOU drive, not ones that drive you. Even the honorable Sir Sterling Moss mentioned that all the technology ruins the driving experience. The art of driving the car comes from the "seat of the driver's pants." thx

SEAFOAM is a good product. I wanna try it this summer myself. However, I have been told by service techs in my area, that using it is not recommended unless you have the equipment to capture the smokey-stuff that comes out of the tailpipe. I'll go out to the farm to do my engine. Spudea- It's funny you brought up Seafoam. Mr. UhOh7 was asking about removing the sludge from the oil and varnish from the inside of the engine. Seafoam is supposed to be used to treat carbon buildup on the intake,valves,heads, etc. Why did you mention Seafoam?

Mr. Derrick072 mentioned substituting a quart of ATF for oil, and you didn't pick up on that? I didn't take it as a suggestion, and I'm sure he mean it as one. That's the attitude more people need- and less presumptions. Sometimes, information is just information. thx

Here's what it says on the can: "Bonus Uses: --To quiet noisy valve lifters, add 8 oz. to crankcase oil. --To dissolve sludge tars, gums and residues, add one pint to crankcase oil 150 miles before oil change. Drain oil, change oil filter cartridge. Refill with fresh oil and add Motor-Medic No.1 for improved performance." I just use it on rusty bolts & nuts. If you have been reading the comments on this topic, you would have noticed that I'm not recommending or even suggesting to anyone that they should use it. The Liquid Wrench people suggest it. And it's a "Quality American Product" thx

Before you criticize the idea, why don't you contact the Liquid Wrench people and get their view on why it's on the can?

Maybe we should have a poll about what you think a real Zed guy is like instead?

Who wants you to pour (not pore) gasoline in your engine??? the Liquid Wrench people say that adding an amount ( read the directions) of their product to your oil before an oil change will benefit. See product for details. thx

there are some gas tank coatings out there that won't come off after a while. Probably not expensive. I read about some in the old car books like Hemmings.

I got my info from my local radiator shop too. They told me you can't just boil the tank (or even ultrasonic) because of some new regulations or something like that. They have to sand blast it. If I had mine blasted, I would rather have the hole tank cut at the seam, then welded back together, instead of cutting some holes. I would tend to agree that boiling doesn't get all the rust out. But you still have to coat the inside or get a bladder or something. Be aware that there are coatings which don't last long. thx

You don't want to run your engine with the thinned oil for long. Usually you put some in for a short time before you change the oil. Go to the store and read the package. Maybe it's on their website.

The mechanical part of the swap is pretty easy to see in all the pictures, but the electrical hookup isn't all that clear. Does anybody have some diagrams on the wiring for the Honda wiper motor to the 280Z? thx

A lot of those old tanks have a problem with rust. I talked to my local repair station about getting the gas tank de-rusted and coated on the inside, and it sounds like I'd be better off just buying a new gas tank, instead of trying to repair the old one. The repair guy said the usual treatment was to cut holes in the tank for a sand blaster gun, then blast the whole inside of the tank, repair any rustholes and finally weld the blasting holes closed. Couldn't you just Evaporust the inside, or use some of the rust-converter stuff on the seal the inside? $600 for a new opr used gas tank is a LOT of money I could use on carpets or engine or suspension instead. thx

I was reading the info on a can of Liquid Wrench™ and it suggests that you put in some before you change the oil. It's supposed to thin the oil a little, and helps more of the crud get out of the engine. It sounds like a few treatments of that would really clean out the engine. thx

If you are talking about a 240, then there are others who know a lot more about those than me. I have a 280Z, so I know stuff about that.

Try asking a question. Any question. Start simple and narrow in on the specific. thx