TomoHawk
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Everything posted by TomoHawk
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Why do you disagree with 240Zx's suggestion, Beandip?
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The reason the reubber dried out is because the natural oils in the rubber dried out. Since oil dries (really slow) it takees that many years to happen, and it's very difficult to get the oil back in properly. It would probably take you 30 years to do that (same time it took to dry out). But you can probably get the surface to look & feel good, if that's your goal. But that's just the reason they sell all those miracle silicone spray dressings.
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If you're replacing, why not upgrade to the ZX m.c.? It has a larger bore, so you get more pressure. thx
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What about your insurance premiums? I got a ticket once (1986) and my insurance went up some, but by the time it was back to 'normal, ' I figured I had pad the equivalent of the fine itself. I have a couple friends that car cops, and they'll joke about speed tickets, but they'll also tell me that if they catch ME, I'll get cited just like anybody else. the same guys would do their best to protect you, too.
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Thanks EZZZ, I'll have to get out my old book on vulcanizing to see if you can re-vulcanize a rubber hose ( depending on the type) to hold a shape. I haven't fooled with that stuff since the late80s.
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Metal sounds good, but copper is out, so stainless is probably the only one that isn't reactive. How well does thin stainless tube bend?
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NO! I'm referring to the wheels Mr. Ricklandia had pictured. OK? I followed your link, and it has a lot of interesting data, thanks. How did you manage to get mixed up into this? Also, does anybody know what the availability for the Appliance wire wheels will be like in about a year? I'll probably want to buy some about then. I'm using the 6-spoke ZX wheels now. thx
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Those wheels look so much like real knock-off wheels that you might not like hearing the suggestion that it is a bolt-on, either with the bolt-on adapter or just a plain bolt-on wheel with the faux knock-off. I have seen both kinds. American Racing has both for the Z. Carl- Right, chrome lugnuts, or whatever you want to call them. You have to look close, and at any speed over 0 MPH, you wouldn't be able to see them (which is good). 240ZX- Obviously, your comment suggests you've never seen wheels with 5 or 6 or more lugnuts holding them on to suggest all wheels have 4 bolts. And SOME kinds of wheels have NO lugnuts!
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No offense to Ricklandia, but there are definitely 4 boltheads in there, you have to look close. Are the knockoffs functional? thx
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Those are nice. Do I see some bolts between the spokes?
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Stop what, Tom, asking questions that nobody else has asked? thx
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At least he says he's aware that he needs to give attention to the whole thing to get to his goal. I wouldn't be surprised if there were some people who were staring at the engine, or some other thing, wondering why something wasn't working right, when all they really need is a little can of DeOxit 100. thx
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Which engine is that? The OEM spec is for 8.8:1 compression ( on the L28). Do you think your mods give more hp than the stock engine? Which car is that? thx
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I see a lot of stuff about bent hoses, like for the gas tank. Is there a way you can form te hoses in a desired shap so they stay bent, or does the manufacturer have to do it at the factory. Maybe bending it with heat in a wood mold of some kind, then letting it cool? Solvents are out, obviously. I haven't fooled with vulcanizing in a few years. thx
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No wiire spoked wheels?
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Then why didn't Mrcow say he was aware of it in his original question? He seemed to be so interested in just the mechanicals (header, exhaust, cam), that one might presume his electricals were intact and perfect. He even said he was going to spend a LOT of money on the rebuild, but (none?) on the electricals.
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You don't seem to be seeing the whole picture. the wiring AND connectors are as important to making horsepower as a turbo or any other device. Even a perfectly new engine won't go with bad wiring. The entire engine SYSTEM must be working well for any modifications to work well. Even the stock engine won't work well, if your sensors AND wiring AND connectors aren't up to snuff. The original question was asking for suggestions for improvements. Adding a turbo or any other device won't do much good with a bad ( engine) electrical system. OK...... go take off all the wiring, Beandip, and see how much horsepower you get with a turbo, or stroker or even if the thing will start. Even one of those Rebello engines will totally suck on horsepower will an (old) electrical system.
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If you use this site as your homepage, then you might see many. if any, new posts, if you start and restart your web browser often during the day. I usually check in the morning (8am), after working(1pm) and aevening (after 6). That way you see new stuff every time, and don't get depressed because you feel like "nothing is happening." :cheeky:
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Before you start taking the engine out, or while you ARE taking it out, you better look at the wiring and connectors, if the connectors aren't perectly clean & shiny and the wires conduting perfect with no resistance, your money won't be of much help. The engine depends on the ECU doing its job perfectly, and with the old wiring ( and sensors, and AFM, etc.) and connectors, the ECU won't be getting the correct information to produce the right fuel mix or probably even put out the right signals to the injectors, etc. to make those horses you are looking for. Get yourself a good repair manual and/or FSM, and the "280Z fuel injection 'Book": '280Z fuel Injection Book I've been working on the wiring & stuff for about two years (summers) when I get time.
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That's interesting. What kind(s) of variable do you think are involved? brake pad area? rotor diameter? Pad material? thx
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It looks like i'll be replacing the thermotime switch a little earlier than I thought.
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My replacement fuel rail will have a pressure gauge on it, so it should tell me what the pressure really is.
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You're right. Using the scope, you can see when the points open & close, so you can tell if the points are bad, and other stuff. I should hook it up to the electronic dizzy on the Z, and read up on what the line should look like.
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I was reading the FSM, and it tells you the factor spec on fuel pressure is 36 psi(and may fluctuate a little higher or lower), so it looks like 90 psi hose might be a little overkill, but not a bad idea for safety. thx
