TomoHawk

I think you'd be better off viewing the voltage with an oscilloscope. I have an ignition analyser with a scope on it that measures rpm, dwell, saturation, etc.

Steven, Are you sure about checking the thermotime switch? I w as reading in the FSM, and it says to check from the one pin to the metal body for continuity. Mine reads ~60 ohms that way. I think that means "0 ohms" in antique-wiring talk. I have an injector pigtail, so I'll try your idea.

Thanks Sean- I'm going to look into using maybe two glasspacks; one for a pre-muffler, and one for the end, to keep things to a minimum. I can almost see the coffee-can muff from the side, so maybe I can get it all to hide under there, except the ANSA tips. thx

The guys on Hybridz.org are having success with the radiator fan from a Ford Taurus. You might want to check out the details on that. General info Wiring diagram Fitment of fan Extra stuff: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95365

I think I'll probably go with a glasspack. They are dirt-cheap (relatively) and as much as I drive my 280Z, the packing should last many years. The only problem now is to pick the size- I think a 2 1/2 x 26 incher will do. In a natural metal finish. A converted cat-con would propbably be too much trouble to mess with to meet my deadline to get mine running. Spring coming soon to Ohio. thx

I can use a ride there. fortunately, petrol in Ohio is only $1.89. th

Thanks Lance I didn't think a JY would sell you one because of paranoia/liability/laws. Maybe they have premufflers from other cars that would fit. But there might be some 'friendly places- I'll ask some friends. Maybe I'll get a cheap one from JCWhitney. They have some "high-flow" models that are long & thin. Maybe it'll work to cut down on HC emmissions too. I need to read up on how cat-cons work. I'll keep the glasspack in mind as a last resort, but I'm trying to keep the looks of the exhaust the same( like stock) by putting on an expansion chamber/pre-muffler. It was designed to work that way and be quiet. A gutted catalytic converter is the closest thing I can find or think of that would look right without mods or painting. Plus glasspacks have to be repacked eventually, right? I'll try calling a muffler shop to see if you can buy a new pre-muffler. thx

Is it legal to gut a catralytic converter to use as an expansion chamber? Those ought to be easier to find and cheap at the JY. thx

there is TONS of stuff there, but most of the prices are $0.00 so I wonder if either the online store is broke, or the prices need to be entered, or you gotta call them. Otherwise: Reman dizzy= $38.00 Reman AFM= $38.00 ?

I was reading about the MSA tips that you can use without a muffler, and they warn you not to use the tips if you don't have the "pre-muffler." I think they're referring to a 'resonator' or expansion chamber. Where can buy new ones of those? Not in any catalog I have. thx

How about http://www.bap-geon.com/

Uh oh... I will have to go back to the hangar with a light and a magnifying glass to see if the o-ring is still in there, because I definitely didn't see any on the injectors that are on the bench. and I will try to get under and look up there to see what the hole is for. Maybe a mirror will help. Something to do with a pre-heater maybe? Good info, thx.

Thanks webdawg1 That photo seems familiar, but I don't remember where I saw it before. My injectors don't have the #1 in the pic (Injector lower rubber insulator). Instead, a plastic 'cap.' I will dig them out maybe Saturday, and I can post a pic if you want to see one; assuming I get one out intact. thx.

If the rear end locks up first, is the nose diving in really bad? It's the only reason I can think of for the rear wheels getting light enough to lock up- even in my front-wheel drive escort. We do the same stuff on bikes in panic stops- you dump your butt off the back of the seat as far as you can to get more weight over the back wheel.

I saw one of those TV shows where(WRC- France) they talked to some co-drivers & crew, and it was mentioned that they send over a team (probably including the co-driver) to survey the course. Sometimes the co-driver will go over the course twice to check the notes. Talk about good memory-- Some of the Paris-Dakar drivers have been there more than once, and their good memories have saved their butts occasionally but not taking a wrong turn from the year before. Atocross drivers will literally walk the course. Something I doubt the WRC co-drivers will do. OR the Paris-Dakar co-drivers.

I talked to Gordon at WitchHunter.com, who will clean, Repair, & Rebuild your injectors. He tells me the little plastic thing that gets stuck in the intake after you remove the injector is called a "pintle cap" and he replaces those with an injector rebuild. So if there's a plastic cap on the injector tip, there's no o-ring. What's that little roundish plate in the middle of the intake for? I can't mine off. thx

In addition to the cold-start injector, there is an Auxilair Air Valve that bypasses the throttle-body to let a little extra air into the intake, simulating a partially-open throttle. It's supposed let the engine run better when cold, and the valve closes off after a few minutes ( don't know exactly how long).

Apparently, people in your area have a weird idea of "life." Do you have any useful information relative to the original question? thx

Your head must hurt. Try a wet noodle next time. Pep Boys sucks and I would never buy anything from a store that is total bling. Besides, there isn't one within 100 miles of me. AutoZone had some information, but none of the 'OEM numbers' listed matched what was on the injector, which were hard to read in the first place.

Can somebody give me the specs on the stock injector for a 280Z? I need the OEM Bosch part #, but the Flow rate, etc. would be good to have too, so I can select al alternative, if I need to. thx

What's the call for a yump? Yee- Haw!?

Is that in relation to thrust, turning, or stopping?

How did you make your notes? Did you just keep them in memory while you drive? Probably using a tape recorder and somebody with a good eye and a fast tongue. I'm sure it takes a LONG time to get the notes right; Maybe even several trips over the same route. I'll bet they use a bigger font with one or two items per line, so you can keep your place easier. Most of all... a thick anti-seasickness armpatch.

WHAT IS YOUR POINT!!???? What you "quoted" wasn't what I ORIGINALLY SAID, too. When you QUOTE someone, you need to keep their point consistant, not twist things to make your point important, whatever it is. You must have a terrible headache using that hammer on yourself.

Thanks for the "update" on Mr. Oxandale's work. His method seems to be very well implemented. I forget if the ZX calipers are 2 or 4 pots. I was probably going to do the Toyota caliper upgrade (fronts) because I figure there are more Toyota 4x4s in the JY than ZXs for the cheaper route on calipers. Do you have details on the calipers you used (price & availability)? Now that I think of it, did anybody check the Toyota 4-pot calipers to see how they compared to the 280ZX calipers? thx