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TomoHawk

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Everything posted by TomoHawk

  1. TomoHawk posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I like the definition from the ACCA: STOCK CLASS: Vehicles exhibited must be configured exactly as shipped from factory (NOT DEALER). Cars with Dealer add-ons such, as wheels, other than stock tires, side moldings, etc. can enter this class with deductions for same. Radios, paint color, tires, etc. must be as shipped. A/C must be factory installed except 240Z which may have same A/C as installed by dealer, i.e. ARA or Frigid King, with basic York compressor. Daily Drivers can enter this class if desired. The reason is that of documentation. You can look up what was on the car from the build sheet (which has the add-ons) or the manufacturer's brochure. That way you won't have to depend on memory. The new preoblem we have now is that since these 240Zs are being reduilt/refurbished/whatever, we (or they) need to decide if the condition at sale is F-stock, rebuilt-stock, or whatever. I haven't heard of any non-stock extras being added to the cars buring rebuild, but the the possibility is there. thx
  2. I saw a $120,000 Mustang GT500 on ther Barrett-Jackson (Arizona) auction recently, even though it's a re-run from last year( just musclecar auctions). It had an automatic transmission. MANY of the Shelby Mustangs had them. Plus, the Nissan Maxima uses the same transmission- with or without overdrive, which would help simplify things. What's a "slide-o-matic?" Mine already has a shifter, with an updated, sporty-looking handle, which has been mistaken for a manual shifter several times!. Then, I dunno which other shifter would fit the car & trans shift pattern. Some people on Hybridz.org have adapted generic shifters to the JATCO unit, but it was not easy to get the gear 'notches' to match. Wouldn't it be really NEAT if they made such a shifter that looks like the manual one? Then you wouldn't be abler to tell what kind of transmission was in the car by looking at the the shifter! The idea isn't to improve the shifter, but to get the 4-speed pattern that most people associate with older-, or sporty- cars. thx
  3. It's not much but this isit: http://www.zcca.org/registry/FromRootFolder/judge.htm
  4. TomoHawk posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    If these cars are being sold as "new" with a warranty, etc., then they are STOCK as-is. There can be no other conclusion. Just because it's a"1972" doesn't mean it's not "new." Otherwise, either the owners are paying to much for a "used car," or the rebuilders are getting overpaid. Lots of streetrod builders register their cars as a new "1932 ford" thought it was built in 2004.
  5. Is there such a thing? I'd like to take a look at it. There's never too many checklists to look over to see if there's anything left to spiff up or fix- it could be to your own benifit & safety if you catch something important, not to mention a little personal satisfaction that 'that guy' or 'the pretty girl' is checking you out. I'll go take a look at the z.c.c.a site... www.zcca.org right? thx
  6. TomoHawk posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    We "discussed" the differences in stock, original (vintage), etc. cars in another topic. I'm not sure where mine would be. I think we all got 'discuss-ted.' http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11413
  7. B&m racing (transmission/shifter people) has a program where they borrow your car for a while to develop a shiter to fit your model. People in the in the Los Angeles, Ventura, or Orange County areas, should call them and tell them to put the S30 model on the "To-Do list." An aftermarket replacement manual shifter wold be nice, but I'd like to see an H-gate (4 spd pattern) shifter for the auto trans people! Since the S30 is THE MOST POPULAR SPORTS CAR IN THE U.S., they should design an auto trans shifter. They had one in the late 80s, so why not redesign it for modern cars?? thx B&M Car Search List Phone: 1-818-882-6422 Hours: 7am - 11:30am and 12:30pm - 4pm (all times are Pacific Standard Time)
  8. Steven- I don't have that 'S' tube in the forground. Instead my 280Z has a vacuum head sticking up with several nipples for vacuum, and a rubber tube coming from the mystery valve. These are on my (fastfrog vacuum hose diagram), which is below. Maybe we can contact some Z-specialist to help us with this? It seems to be the key to several things, including how to get rid of egr valve. Assuming it doesn't help to have it still on there. The thing that pulls on the throttle linkage is a fast-idle doohickey for cars with a/c.
  9. The flat bracket is bolted to the side on the intake manifold. The tube coming from the bottom of the mystery valve which goes off to the right (in my 280Z) went across the pass. side to to the vacuum solenoids. the isn't any wire going to it, just a hose on either end. I haven't removed it as yet until I figure out what it does. I thought it was some kind of vacuum port.
  10. I take my description back. In the photo, the cylinder on the left is what I have, and I don't know what it is. Hanes book ( p. 220) has a photo of the egr valve & "vac switching valve," but the switching valve is not what's in the above pic.
  11. I would like to know what the BPT valve is FOR. I was thinking it lets air in so the EGR valve will close up. Otherwise, ithe egr valve will keep opening until the engine stalls. thx
  12. The one on the right isthe control valve for the EGR, the other is a vacuum switching valve
  13. TomoHawk posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Afte I win the Mega-Lotto , I'll open a small shop to make glass moulds of the plastic panels & light lenses
  14. TomoHawk posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Instead of velcro™, I'd suggest using Superlock™ from RadioShack, et al. It has interlocking knobs that work like velcro, and the tensile strength is 5psi! one sq. inch on each rivet spot ( or end) would hold the panel BETTER than ol' velcro fwiw
  15. TomoHawk posted a post in a topic in Interior
    I disagree with this. The reason is that the holes on the panels are large enough to allow some adjusting, even if they were being screwed down. I've been able to shift the panels around a little with the rivets in, which would have about the same size shank as a screw.
  16. TomoHawk posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    The thing that bothers me is that if people are stripping 240Zs ( or 260Zs or 280Zs) for the parts to sell, then where do you get the parts to restore the stripped cars?? If the parts are in great condition, I'd think the rest of the car was too. Unless the car was totalled on the day after delivery, and was store hermetically since
  17. TomoHawk posted a post in a topic in Carburetor Central
    What do they use for that little filter on the valve cover? Does it fit well under the hood? On my 280Z, it would be one more ugly hose GONE. thx
  18. TomoHawk commented on gundee's comment on a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  19. TomoHawk commented on ZIII's comment on a gallery image in Engine and Drivetrain
  20. TomoHawk posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Wow, that 240Z fusebox looks like it's easy to get out. I spent A WEEK trying to figure out how to get the one out of my 280Z just far enough for a vinegarette bath!
  21. TomoHawk posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Courtesy Nissan in TX sells the FSM (Factory Service Manual ) on CD for about $70. It's nice to browse the info you need and then print out the pages, so you don't dirty up a good book that you'll want to keep for years.
  22. TomoHawk posted a post in a topic in Interior
    I don't mind a few non-OEM things, as long as they are easily available and an improvement to the old part- like tyres.
  23. TomoHawk posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Now that I'm thinking of this, why not eliminate the rivets completely. By soldering, or gluing, something like a pop-rivet, which has a hole in it, into the hole where the rivet goes, you could actually use a screw. Properly glued or soldered in, it shouldn't turn, unless the screw is really tight. I like that idea because you can slowly tighten the screw and draw the piece down as you adjust it. I have problems positioning the pieces in my car AND pushing the screws in at the same time. mlc- The idea of the small nail is suggested ecery time we discuss this idea, and it sounds like a good alternative to use in a pinch. I'm concerened with leaving them in there because I think the head will catch or scratch, IMO. Maybe somebody can keep an eye out for some large tacks with thick pins. thx
  24. TomoHawk posted a post in a topic in Interior
    If you use a screw, I would suggest filing the threads off. I have some nice button-head screws with hes holes in them. Otherwise, I was thinking of using something like a large tack, with a head a little larger than that of the rivet. If done properly, it would plug the hole of the rivet, and cover the head of the rivet. I just can't think if anything off-hand, so I'll have to schedule a trip to the office supply store, and maybe the DIY store. What's the diameter of that little pin? thx
  25. Do they have roads in the Solomons? Do you suppose the Saline water or air did it in? Some people tell me I should expect my FLORIDA car to be full of salty holes. thx
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