TomoHawk

From scientific research, it has been found that the lower octane gasoline gives you more horsepower. Octane boosters are only good for increasing engine ptemp., eliminating detonation and lowering your horsepower factor. I have no evidence about soot. But you are correct by saying thar tyre pressure, air temp & atmospheric pressure, etc., all play a factor in the power of your engine and speed v. RPM.

I had some MEK on the shelp and tried that, which did work with a little time. But on the timing chain end, I noticed some scratches that looked like the timing chain was rubbing. Has anybody else noticedthat on their engine? After removing the varnish, I didn't see any noticeable scratches or grooves on the metal itself. thx

Hmmmm... Datsun 240Zs take a "step BACK in time?" I couldn't read the text in the picture, so would you mind telling us what the point of the article was? thx

My 280Z with 3 spd auto will turn about 3300 at 70 MPH... With the tacho on the fritz, I'm accustomed to the sound of the engine at 60 MPH. We've discused the pros & cons about auto v. manual transmission here before where the biggest difference seems to be the efficiency of the automatic transmission's torque converter compared to the clutch, and it seems evrerybody gets a different result, as everybody car is in different states of mechanical efficiency.

You might not know it, mate, but I've got a Didj in the coprner. I'm pretty sure it'll just fit in the back cross-ways.

The big question for me is which one protects which circuits? I only know of the one that goes to the headlamps. BTW, why don't you have ant BROWN fuse links on your '78. Mine does, and it's in my owners book, Haynes book, and the MSA catalog. Pete- AFAIK, there are only the 5 fuse links on a '78, all under the hood. One goes from the battery (+) to the e.f.i. module, and the other four are on the shocktower, mounted to the relay cover, as in the photo. thx

I was just using simplified numbers in my head for a quick calculation, and got 24mpg, which I assumed would be close enough.

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I forgot whre I saw it, but I saw a scanned image of an original brochure saying that the 280Z was a 'luxury car.' I'll go look around for you. The ZX was definitely luxury with the standard leather seats, a/c, cruise control, etc. For me "cruise control" means hooking my throttle foot in the fold of the carpet, which gives me 63-65 MPH on the highway thx

I've been watching a TV program called "NOPI vision" which is all about the ricer phenomema. Some of the peole, as I remember, have "invested?" as much as $80,000 in their car?!!?? Just to have custom bodywork that makes it hard to tell what car you started with, DVD, COLORED leather everywhere, a 'sound system' louder than open extractors, and interor appointments that look like a Christmas tree when you switch the lights on. thx

Lessee... 10L = about 2.5 Gal. 100km = about 60miles 60miles/2.5 Gal = 24 mpg GOOD on yer!

You might check over at the the Hybridz.com forums because that basically what they do there.

All you get out of it then, is the 'same old song' every time.

Now you can get your gf a 'rock' to put on the finger.

I decided to stick with 'non-denominational' music. You could call it "Top-40 rock." I did some research into the most popular songs of the early mid-to late- 70s, picked out some songs that were related to cars, driving or such, then a few miscellaneous songs to fill the time up, Always keeping in mind that these songs need to keep the adrenaline going, suggest speed, seduction, or recklessnes (j/k!) and arranged them to keep your attention & adrenaline going. they sounded good to me when you play them loud, too! thx

the songs I chose for my CD are all car-related, and most were from around 75-78. I tried to pick songs that would go well with the a peppy little engine, or the little white lane-lines wizzing by! thx

I don't remember the TV show Stingray, or one with a big silver twin-engine plane. But, at least we have the same name! thx

Yeah, we thrashed the music-idea around about a year ago. since then I have produced a two-CD set (90 minutes total). It's all 70s stuff. Sent Mike a set. He seems to like the stuff. Personal use only, of course. He suggests I look into a license to produce them for club people. I'm working on a third disk now, and maybe a fourth one day. I play cassette tapes, so I create CDs in 90- (or 2 x 45)- minute chunks. thx

I just had a vision of a good-looking guy(like me?) driving around the country saving beautiful women who have broken-down cars (only TWO seats in a Zed, you know! The problem would be which car, with what engine, body mods & paint, etc., and who the cast would be. Sounds like just another doo-good car show, like Viper, Knight Rider, et al. I like the history/design stuff, but it wouldn't last long. You could also throw in some how-to & repair stuff. thx

I couldn't tell it was a battery there on the left. I've been using a copper-based anti-sieze on things like those bolts. Not just because I worked on the formula, and in the lab it showed some interesting electrical properties. Copper anti-sieze worked miracles on exhaust manifiold bolts, even after a few years. Why not just clear-coat the boltheads? Also, it sound like you give DeOxIt thumbs up? thx

AFAIK, my car has federal emmissions, but the BPT is the only thing that suggests california. There isn't even a catalytic converter, which the muffler guy pointed out. I determined that the BPT is some kind of a check valve because you can only suck air from one side. From what you say, I think it might allow air to pass through ( or back) slowly, which would allow the EGR diaphram to return to the normal position, otherwise the EGR would keep opening until the engine stalls, which is why I took it all off. thx

Uh Oh.. I'm thinking now that my hoses are mixed up There was a check valve on one hose off the intake that's the size of quarter, anout 7-8mm thick, and it was hooked up to a dashpot. I'm going to read-up on the BPT valve and related stuff. Do you think the vacuum solenoids are involved, or is that just for the a/c stuff? I evennoticed there was even a vacuum-operated thing for the high-idle (it pulled on the throttle rod.) I totally disconnected & removed that. thx

Where on the firewall is that first picture? Also, those bolts look rusty, did you treat them to a de-rusting? I'll put both of those spots on my list.

I think the problem with my EGR is that I don't know if the thermocheck valve is working right, so I just assume the EGR is always closed. Isthere a section on EGR in the FSm I would assume that if the thermocheck valve was working right, it would open the EGR when the engine is warm & has enough vacuum ( like at higher RPM) and it would lean out the mixture with increased power & gas mileage. I'm starting to think that the vacuum solenoids are involved here, but I don't know how those get activated. I hope my FSM has some help on this. FYI, I reopenedthis topic at this time because it's winter here in Ohio, and you pretty much put the cars away until April & lock yourself indoors with a book(s). i.e., research season. thx E.G.R.,....F.S.M..... M.O.U.S.E........

I believe that properly used, the EGR is part of the fix for an over-rich mixture. As a result, you will get a better mix at WOT and more power.