TomoHawk

I had a professional guy do it.

I just got the engine decarbonized, and it seems to have helped a whole lot. When I first started it, the idle was significantly better, but it still bogged a little when I revved it. I'm not sure if it has more power, but drives OK.

Thanks for the offer, Steven. I'll see IF you can get a new set (with the flexible wires?) That way, if I can't fix, it- no worries. :sleepy: Which years were compatible with the 78? I'll try calling around again, to see IF there are any in my area. thx

I tried putting air into mine, and it wouldn't fill up, and the rubber was hard as a rock, so I tossed that too, and opted for the full-size spare.

One of the green wires broke off the Master Cylinder cap on my 280Z. It broke off where it goes in the cap. Is there a way you can repair that?

That looks very nice.

NOT! It's got a brushed finish and the thing is mostly covered by the handle, already covered with black vinyl, so you don't see a screw unless you go looking for it.

I bet Kats would have the answer to this one.

I think thoses cheesy pieces look bad, so I took them out traight away.

I think the most important point is that the finish be a flat or matte shade regardless of if you use grey or black. I agree on the use of Duplicolor paints in these areas.

O I C.... Basically, just another way to let air in & lean the mix. Good tip, Steven

Is there another name for "air regulator?" I In the Haynes book, I see something on page 229, but it doesn't say much else. thx

I think the answer to that question is no. Mine starts fine, but idles at the (warm idle speed). Sounds like there might be a vacuum leak or problem. thx

I used '95 Mustang 3.8 V6 All the pics I have are on my web site. I will get some more when my lovely ladyfriend returns my camera.

I finally picked up my 280Z with the Mustang power steering in it! I went straight to the alignment ahop tho. it was fun getting there, but drives perfect now. I started polishing anything that'll look good polished.

I'm able to start my engine easy in the morning with the thermotime switch disconnected, but it runs really bad until it gets warm. Bogs really bad. It's OK after it gets warm. Any ideas?

I tried disconnecting my thermotime switch today. It seems to be running a little leaner, with more power/acceleration, and it seemed to go easier on the freeway. Much less effort to go from 60 to 70 MPH. I don't know what effect it has on starting as the engine was already warm when I tried the experiment. I will try starting it cold in the morning. I also tried starting/running the engine with the cold-start injector wires disconnected, aswell as the TPS switch disconnected. Disconnecting he thermotime switch had the biggest effect.

I'm putting pushbutton door handles on my car.

It just gets worn out sometimes, or gets stuck.

You "should" be able to run the engine sans cold-start injector, but it should not start up and run well until it's warmed up. That's what the cold-start injector does- extra fuel to start or run when cold. It's controlled by the thermotime sensor/switch. Maybe you could try starting the engine, then disconnect the cold-start injector? Make sure it's not stuck upen first!

NEITHER! I like the way mine looks "unmodified", but I just wish I could get the front bumper to suck in about a FOOT. . Back one too, unless I need a place to put a grill for tailgating...

It might be in your owner's book, but after so many miles/years, it should be different (less). You'd determine compression with a tester in the spark plug hole. They probably have those in the auto parts stores. Somebody should have a good link to post.

Isn't the compression od the stock Z engine (L28) about 8:1? I'd say that was a 'low' compression ratio, so go with the lower octane. 'High' compression would be around 10:1 and higher. It should also help to prevent predetonation if your cylinders/heads were squeaky clean- with no carbon builup.

Why not try making your own using wood doweling, or even finding a source for plastic rod? plastic unsulation from house wiring (romex) comes to mind...

I have been able to remove an occasional rivet but only pushing the center part way in. It's not easy- I made a thin tool to get under the head and pry up while pushing the center in slowly.