TomoHawk

I think the answer to that question is no. Mine starts fine, but idles at the (warm idle speed). Sounds like there might be a vacuum leak or problem. thx

I used '95 Mustang 3.8 V6 All the pics I have are on my web site. I will get some more when my lovely ladyfriend returns my camera.

I finally picked up my 280Z with the Mustang power steering in it! I went straight to the alignment ahop tho. it was fun getting there, but drives perfect now. I started polishing anything that'll look good polished.

I'm able to start my engine easy in the morning with the thermotime switch disconnected, but it runs really bad until it gets warm. Bogs really bad. It's OK after it gets warm. Any ideas?

I tried disconnecting my thermotime switch today. It seems to be running a little leaner, with more power/acceleration, and it seemed to go easier on the freeway. Much less effort to go from 60 to 70 MPH. I don't know what effect it has on starting as the engine was already warm when I tried the experiment. I will try starting it cold in the morning. I also tried starting/running the engine with the cold-start injector wires disconnected, aswell as the TPS switch disconnected. Disconnecting he thermotime switch had the biggest effect.

I'm putting pushbutton door handles on my car.

It just gets worn out sometimes, or gets stuck.

You "should" be able to run the engine sans cold-start injector, but it should not start up and run well until it's warmed up. That's what the cold-start injector does- extra fuel to start or run when cold. It's controlled by the thermotime sensor/switch. Maybe you could try starting the engine, then disconnect the cold-start injector? Make sure it's not stuck upen first!

NEITHER! I like the way mine looks "unmodified", but I just wish I could get the front bumper to suck in about a FOOT. . Back one too, unless I need a place to put a grill for tailgating...

It might be in your owner's book, but after so many miles/years, it should be different (less). You'd determine compression with a tester in the spark plug hole. They probably have those in the auto parts stores. Somebody should have a good link to post.

Isn't the compression od the stock Z engine (L28) about 8:1? I'd say that was a 'low' compression ratio, so go with the lower octane. 'High' compression would be around 10:1 and higher. It should also help to prevent predetonation if your cylinders/heads were squeaky clean- with no carbon builup.

Why not try making your own using wood doweling, or even finding a source for plastic rod? plastic unsulation from house wiring (romex) comes to mind...

I have been able to remove an occasional rivet but only pushing the center part way in. It's not easy- I made a thin tool to get under the head and pry up while pushing the center in slowly.

That's where I got mine. It's on Fletcher Ave just off 275 (near USF)

I bet this was answered before, but Icouldn't find a good match on a search, or used the wrong search words.... Can you repain or recoat the wiper arms after the black coating starts chipping off? thx.

That diagram is from the 240Z factory restoration manual.

I'm with Mr. C. After he clarified himself, we can see what the real question was. FWIW, I always tell my kids, "If you don't understand, ask 'why', or ask more questions." dfr867 didn't need correcting, just some questioning. NOW, he'll get some useful answers. thx

Ed- Why don't you ask him to clarify things? Maybe he said chassis, but meant something else. You probably gave him a big jolt with that negative answer.

How come the links didn't work?

If you are interested in the evapo rust product: http://www.orisonmarketing.com/corrosion/evaporust/evapo-rust.html

You have to order DeoxIt from the wholesaler, and it's a spray product: Deoxit Info

There is a liquid called "EVapo rust." I have I've been using it on bolts & stuff I have sitting in boxes. It will take the rust off stuff without pitting. You just let it soak. There is also a spray called "deOxit" that is supposed to be good for removing corrosion/rust from electrical connectors.

Nemesis.... to me, it would have to be something with great handling, rear-wheel drive with decent horsepower, and sports-car looks. I just can't think of any thing right now tho. Or are you going to consider any model with any characteristics? There just doesn't seem to be anything compareable!

there's 746 watts to 1 Hp. 158kW=212 Hp

Welcome to the club, jagbabe. cheers!