TomoHawk
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Everything posted by TomoHawk
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You might even try patching in a 12V battery direct to the gauges or the dash harness, bypassing all the connectors, to see if the connectors are the problem.
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I wish my 280Z had one of those to fix my mixture problem. Soot is practically dripping out of the tailpipe.
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Yeah, that's the thing I got. It has a black plastic sleeve going inside, with what 'feels like' a cable inside it. The wiring diagram shows something labelled "Amp."
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Why? Are you just replacing it, or something else?
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I suppose you could use a dimmer rheostat. You'd have to bodge it in there. It might even be mounted to the bracket. Just the control rod has to be long enough to stick out. (about 15cm, I think).
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Using a brighter bulb isn't going to make things easier to see. The real probblem is in the connectors and wiring. Connectors are all corroded and that means resistance and less voltage, which is what really makes the 12V bulbs brighter. This problem impacts every circuit in the car from the dome light to the fuel level gauge to the fuel injection system (on 280Zs). An old dimmer switch might be the problem. You could bypass it by pulling off the connector on the back and shunting the two pins. There are several, if not many, people here working on improving voltage and current flow through the wiring. I have some secret rust-potion on order and I will be trying it .
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It sounds likethe muffler guy may have disconnected something needed to run well.
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How much would the timing chain slip? Is that tensioner-thingy or the chain itself supposed to wear oout? thx
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While on the subject, what about replacing the factory speedo with another one? Do you have to declare anything to DMV or any thing?
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I'm full of it. Rob.
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I think you should check this out: http://www.hammondsplains.com/zclub/techtips/reviving/
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I knew there had to be a speed sensor in there someplace. It probably does connect to the F.I. and the BCDD. O-L.... I thought I could simplify things.
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If you have those universal battery clampson there, get rid of them. They are not the best thing; not too efficient & you will get voltage loss. Find yourself a battery place and have them make you a new set of cables.
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After soaking with the GOO Gone, use a heatgun/hir dryer to warm the decal & soften tyhe glue even more. Don't burn the paint
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I think there's a cable connecting it to the inside, but it has wires on it too. I think it might be the things that controls the BCDD.
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I picked up a l'ike-new' speedo off eBay and I saw a little box on the back with wires coming out of it. What's that for? thx
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When I got my 280Z, I tried using the engine cleaner foam and apparently got some water where it shouldn't have been. I left it to dry a couple days and it started working. Some sun and warm air could've helped.
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The idea was to clean up the engine. All that's left would be the intake, headers, dizzy, and injectors/ injector rail. At the least I would like to remove the EGR valve. I suppose I could do one at a time, and see if it's good or bad, then replace it . Well, it runs and I got more important fixes like the headlights. That's why I do the reasearch & keep notes, thx
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It's too bad you can't get the parts to convert the Z auto trans to a manual valve body. You might be able to convert a shifter.
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I have a "buzzer probe" for such occasions. Instead of buying new bulbs and things, you just hook up the buzzer, especially, if you are working alone. Just a cheapo buzzer from Radio shack, glue it to a tongue depressor/stick. One wire with alligator clip for ground and one with with a pin/nail for probing. Really helped when I was fixing the horns!!
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1. Clean the connectors 2. Clean the connectors 3. Check voltages along the way & clean again. Look for broken wires & such. Don't forget to clean the cennectors at the tail light harness and the sockets themselves. Make sure the bulb is a good one. Whatever it is, it's something simple. You'll :stupid: yourself later.
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Just opening the intake won't make it "breathe" better. You also have to open up the exhaust. Otherwise one end or the other will be your bottleneck.
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According the my Haynes manual, these are the smog things on the L28 (auto trans) and I would probablly do these things with them: BCDD-- disconnect vac line/adjust EGR Control Valve-- Remove, cover hole Thermal Vacuum Valve-- remove, plug Backpressure transducer valve-- remove, plug holes Vacuum Delay Valve-- remove, plug holes Altitude Switch-- remove & bypass Vacuum Switching Valve-- disconnect from dizzy Dashpot-- ? any suggestions? thx
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'Check if your circuyit is shorted to ground. One side of the fuse goes to the battery (+12V), and the other side should not have a connection to ground. if it did, it would keep the things from working. Check for continuity to ground. with the switches off, door closed.
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The hazards circuit comes of fthe fusebox, and is always hot- no relay involved .
