TomoHawk
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Everything posted by TomoHawk
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The SS brake lines from MSA are the exact same things that you get from Earl's. et al, only they just haven't been tested yet. They're not FROM Earl's,as far as I know, just the same stuff. We hashed this over at HybridZ.org and it was concluded, from experiences, that they are OK for street. I think somebody may have suggested you remove the warning tags, (Shhhhhhhh!) but tyhat was not an "official statement" by anyone Am I covered?
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Did the MSA brake hoses get the DOT approval? when I got my set they still had the tags that said, "For off-road use ONLY."
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Dude, YOu happened to hit a very good reason why I don't like the painless wiring stuff. No problem with you. We need as many different points of view to develop the bestest conclusions.
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You should include a 20,000 watt radio. Instead, pint the kicker tube out the back so you'll get an extra 5 mph! No problem with the relocated battery. Just mount that where you want it and run a 1 gauge stranded wire to the battery connection on the painless part.
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I believe what roopZ said was incorrect. This is the big issue I have about the painless stuff. The power for the wiper motor AND pump (on the 280Z) goes through the 'wiper moter amplifier' which looks like a relay, and probably contains the electronics for the low/high speeds, so you don't just go from the battery to the wiper motor, although that's what I'd like to try. I believe that there is a direct feed from the fusebox to the wiper motor amp, tho, which is what roopZ suggests, and another wire from the switch to change functions. BTW, I think the 'wiper motor amplifier' might be all or part of the reason that the wipers are so slow (on the 280Z).
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You sound like an AD for Painless! Seriously, I doubt the painless system will work in a Z unless you do a LOT of custom stuff because of the Wiper switch, light switch, hazards, etc. I've studied the wiring for over a year now, and it makes sense from the Datsun point of view, and the only new wiring I would put in there is to replace ONLY certain current-carrying wires wit the exact same colors and gauges as the original. TIMO, he painless stuff will only work for new installations on newer, American cars.
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I don't think the painless kits would work well in a Z car. It has fuel injection, & electronic ignition, how do you wire that stuff in? You'd have to get new wiring harnesses for those, which there aren't. Then you'd have to figure out where to splice it in. Not so painless now, huh? Unless you want to use an engine from a new chevy. The Painless stuff just doesn't work on the original Z. Zhadman-- I went o the library the other day, and the Mitchell's book for 1978 imports had the complete wiring diagram. The only thing about that was I couldn't get it to lay flat enough to get a really good copy.
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I see it another way... If a one-of-a kind- race-ready Z is only $3,000, then our ordinary "production models" would be much less. So if you buy a stock Z for anything over $1500-$2000, you probably poaid too much. The same reason the Enzo people don't want to see any Z-based GTOs in public. They think it'll bring the value of the real-thing down from $million to $15,000 or whatever. The problem is that these laypeople see a GTO and think it's a Ferrari, not a Z.
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Undertray.... I think I could build in a narrow air dam into that. Like an upside-down lip spoiler. Those are about 2 feet wide ( about same width as radiator)? You could use it to scoop air for the brakes too.
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wow, 30mm (~1 3/16 inches)? That's more than the usual 3/4 to 7/8 inch (19-22 mm) But if it's what you need, then that's exactly the right amount.
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I see it has a noticeable undercut on the front. That should give it plenty of lift on the highway..... j/k BTW, Odd-number Ferrari serial numbers were race cars. As far a I know.- read that on the Ferrari web site.
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Maybe the body kit is the rare part?
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I hate it when hes puts that little kicker in there.. OK, so what is the first thing you could do? Air dam? How far down would it have to be? FYI: Enzo GTOs had 2 air dams- one under the nose and one in front of the rear axle.
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Just wondering if anyone has any experience with TSD (time-speed-distance) rallies? Where have you been doing your rallies? I immediately thought that using the odometer, a palm computer and timer, you could calculate whatever you need, even average speed. Reading up on some of the category specs, I see that you might be limited to your memory only, or scribbling TSD numbers on paper, or anything-goes. Here's the link: http://www.rallybc.com/html/regional_rules.htm#Classes I think you start with the simpler 'paper' (memory) class, then move up, but I don't know where a palm computer would fit in. Right now I'm stuck with no Zed, no co-driver, and no where to rally Maybe spring will bring new hopes...
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I'll give you that it has the scent of the used car dealer, but compaired to the price I PAID FOR MINE (which is in fair/good condition), it is a bargain. When was the last time YOU bought a turn-key sports-type car for $3000? I assume that the car won't be needing any work to keep it running, oor need tires (soon), or whatever stuff that wears out. I agree that the (seller) shouldn't call it a rac car if it isn't. Didn't even have a roll-bar. Also, I wouldn't put a radio in a "race car." I might even take the radio (newer Audiovox with pull-out receiver) out of my 280Z "touring car," but that depends on how comfortable I feel taking it on longer drives. I need room for my TSD palm computer.
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Can I get a recommendation for a good source for a Master Brake Cylinder for a 78 280Z? I mean where to buy one, like VB or Joe's Datsun? I will consider upgrading to the ZX one if it's compareable. I eould rather have a 'new' one, but a rebuilt or reconditioned one from a trusted place should be fine. thx.
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78 280Z Is there supposed to be a factory bracket or mount for the front license plate? In Ohio, you're "required" to have both license plates mounted,but apparently, some people with expensive cars, think they're above thisrequirement. So far, I used GOOP to glue a plastic bracket to the bumper off to the LH side, with some extra long plastic zip-ties for safety. The plate screws to the plastic bracket of course. thx.
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Dielectric grease sounds like an oxymoron. You put it on electrical connections, to protect it.
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I couldn't pass up buying myself a "Cavalino Rampante" off eBay a while back. I might just put it on the hatch of my car, or should I put it between the taillights? I also got a chrome "FERRARI" to go on the hatch. Guess I answered my question.
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I'm interested in the TSD type rallies, but there doesn't seem to be any in the Cleveland, OH area. If you want to travel 100-200 or more miles, you might be able to find some action? I'm not so sure about driving my 280Z with it's 100K+ miles to a place that more than 30 miles away. I'm interested in hearing how far people go for events. It might be just that it's winter and the action doesn't start till spring? I think I should be able to find a schedule for spring... thx.
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Instead of spraying, I'd suggest you consider using a small brush to paint on a coating. Also, in R/C boat racing, we use a dielectric epoxy to encapsulate the electronics, protecting it from water.
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I heard of something called an SST fastener to fasten the door panels using screws to the doors on my 280Z. Can anybody tell me where you can get those fasteners and maybe a picture? thx.
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There are many similar forums. Hopefully not redundant ones. The site is too new to tell yet.
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I will rest easy, in Ohio, knowing that I won't find any around here. We get the occasional "gator in the river" thing, but I think you might get that in many cities.
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It doesn'y really look BAD. I think itr's just that it's mounted to the hatch, which is basically flimsy sheet metal in the area where the wing is mounted. If you put 350 lbs. on the hatch, the glass would break and the metal would bend in. If the legs on the wing were mounted, like, through the hatch to the frame, or on an external frame-type thing, it would look like part of the car, like the wing on an F1 car. I think that's the biggest reason why people don't like wings. They are a cheap add-on to the sheet metal, and not structurally sound. Even those "spoilers" on Grand-Ams, etc.
