TomoHawk

I don't think the painless kits would work well in a Z car. It has fuel injection, & electronic ignition, how do you wire that stuff in? You'd have to get new wiring harnesses for those, which there aren't. Then you'd have to figure out where to splice it in. Not so painless now, huh? Unless you want to use an engine from a new chevy. The Painless stuff just doesn't work on the original Z. Zhadman-- I went o the library the other day, and the Mitchell's book for 1978 imports had the complete wiring diagram. The only thing about that was I couldn't get it to lay flat enough to get a really good copy.

I see it another way... If a one-of-a kind- race-ready Z is only $3,000, then our ordinary "production models" would be much less. So if you buy a stock Z for anything over $1500-$2000, you probably poaid too much. The same reason the Enzo people don't want to see any Z-based GTOs in public. They think it'll bring the value of the real-thing down from $million to $15,000 or whatever. The problem is that these laypeople see a GTO and think it's a Ferrari, not a Z.

Undertray.... I think I could build in a narrow air dam into that. Like an upside-down lip spoiler. Those are about 2 feet wide ( about same width as radiator)? You could use it to scoop air for the brakes too.

wow, 30mm (~1 3/16 inches)? That's more than the usual 3/4 to 7/8 inch (19-22 mm) But if it's what you need, then that's exactly the right amount.

I see it has a noticeable undercut on the front. That should give it plenty of lift on the highway..... j/k BTW, Odd-number Ferrari serial numbers were race cars. As far a I know.- read that on the Ferrari web site.

Maybe the body kit is the rare part?

I hate it when hes puts that little kicker in there.. OK, so what is the first thing you could do? Air dam? How far down would it have to be? FYI: Enzo GTOs had 2 air dams- one under the nose and one in front of the rear axle.

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with TSD (time-speed-distance) rallies? Where have you been doing your rallies? I immediately thought that using the odometer, a palm computer and timer, you could calculate whatever you need, even average speed. Reading up on some of the category specs, I see that you might be limited to your memory only, or scribbling TSD numbers on paper, or anything-goes. Here's the link: http://www.rallybc.com/html/regional_rules.htm#Classes I think you start with the simpler 'paper' (memory) class, then move up, but I don't know where a palm computer would fit in. Right now I'm stuck with no Zed, no co-driver, and no where to rally Maybe spring will bring new hopes...

I'll give you that it has the scent of the used car dealer, but compaired to the price I PAID FOR MINE (which is in fair/good condition), it is a bargain. When was the last time YOU bought a turn-key sports-type car for $3000? I assume that the car won't be needing any work to keep it running, oor need tires (soon), or whatever stuff that wears out. I agree that the (seller) shouldn't call it a rac car if it isn't. Didn't even have a roll-bar. Also, I wouldn't put a radio in a "race car." I might even take the radio (newer Audiovox with pull-out receiver) out of my 280Z "touring car," but that depends on how comfortable I feel taking it on longer drives. I need room for my TSD palm computer.

Can I get a recommendation for a good source for a Master Brake Cylinder for a 78 280Z? I mean where to buy one, like VB or Joe's Datsun? I will consider upgrading to the ZX one if it's compareable. I eould rather have a 'new' one, but a rebuilt or reconditioned one from a trusted place should be fine. thx.

78 280Z Is there supposed to be a factory bracket or mount for the front license plate? In Ohio, you're "required" to have both license plates mounted,but apparently, some people with expensive cars, think they're above thisrequirement. So far, I used GOOP to glue a plastic bracket to the bumper off to the LH side, with some extra long plastic zip-ties for safety. The plate screws to the plastic bracket of course. thx.

Dielectric grease sounds like an oxymoron. You put it on electrical connections, to protect it.

I couldn't pass up buying myself a "Cavalino Rampante" off eBay a while back. I might just put it on the hatch of my car, or should I put it between the taillights? I also got a chrome "FERRARI" to go on the hatch. Guess I answered my question.

I'm interested in the TSD type rallies, but there doesn't seem to be any in the Cleveland, OH area. If you want to travel 100-200 or more miles, you might be able to find some action? I'm not so sure about driving my 280Z with it's 100K+ miles to a place that more than 30 miles away. I'm interested in hearing how far people go for events. It might be just that it's winter and the action doesn't start till spring? I think I should be able to find a schedule for spring... thx.

Instead of spraying, I'd suggest you consider using a small brush to paint on a coating. Also, in R/C boat racing, we use a dielectric epoxy to encapsulate the electronics, protecting it from water.

I heard of something called an SST fastener to fasten the door panels using screws to the doors on my 280Z. Can anybody tell me where you can get those fasteners and maybe a picture? thx.

There are many similar forums. Hopefully not redundant ones. The site is too new to tell yet.

I will rest easy, in Ohio, knowing that I won't find any around here. We get the occasional "gator in the river" thing, but I think you might get that in many cities.

It doesn'y really look BAD. I think itr's just that it's mounted to the hatch, which is basically flimsy sheet metal in the area where the wing is mounted. If you put 350 lbs. on the hatch, the glass would break and the metal would bend in. If the legs on the wing were mounted, like, through the hatch to the frame, or on an external frame-type thing, it would look like part of the car, like the wing on an F1 car. I think that's the biggest reason why people don't like wings. They are a cheap add-on to the sheet metal, and not structurally sound. Even those "spoilers" on Grand-Ams, etc.

I think the ricers are looking for more room to put stickers, or a new technique for sustained wheelies? Oh-- Washing DOES help. Well.... when I wash & WAX my dad's Cessna, I get an extra 5 mph or so...

chino-- We're not talking about neutral drops. More like you put it in gear, then when you feel it catch, you give gas like you got a manual trans.

Sounds like you might have a great car to use for a GTO conversion? You could get rid of all the front sheet metal. KIT is only $4000. Just remember to go to the mall to practice your drifting (winter driving techniques) in the empty part of the parking lot. My driver's Ed intructor learned me this. Drves chicks crazy.

All I get are (under par) older ladies who tell me they had one when they were younger. No guys yet. I pull up next to Mustangs Carmaros(that 'other' Z-car) and some corvettes, but I don't do the race thing. I'm too busy looking cool. It's really cool how you are at a light and you can (pretend) you got a clutch by putting the auto trans in gear and hitting the gas at just the right moment, then going through the turn/intersection in first gear... I try to keep it under 3500 RPM tho.

Do these electrical solenoids fail in the open position? There shouldn't be any reason to cut the wires off.

Sound reasoning, mate. If the vacuum bottle were missing, you'd probably have serious lag when changing the heaster functions. BTW, I have the "Fast Frog" vacuum diagram. Click here for Fast Frog HVAC diagram I understand what you mean by fan speed. For some reason, When you set the lever to a/C, the fan goes faster (on high speed), than the vent setting.. My diagram must be missing something critical. Unfortunately, it doesn't show the vacuum flow direction, or the arrows don't make sense. cheers