TomoHawk

I already have that, but I was looking for the original images, not a compilation of them, to make some new customized originals. Contact with the author of those graphics would probably be best. The problem was the white area isn't really white, but slightly off-white. Inverting the colors was an improvement to make the black background truly black- something you could work with. You'll still have to draw the circular outline of the face, regardless. There aren't any other overlays?

I'll be asking some more questions probably, and watching this thread until spring, because I would like to install the module over the winter.

I bought a 5-pack of 3-pin weatherseal connectors for the turn signals, but the kid used them for the headlamp connections- they worked out well anyway. I think we can get the headlamp buckets out when we are ready to put in some fog lamps or driving lamps, and we could tap into the wires at that point to power relays.

I just installed a 4-chip LED festoon bulb in the '97 and that darned thing just lights up the whole cabin! Granted, the clear plastic cover lets all that light get around the cabin, but it's better than the old filament bulb, although I may look for the same thing in warm white some time.

The vacuum I finally purchased was the Black & Decker PAD1200 flex vac. It has a 12ft power wire, a 4 foot hose, an easily-emptied dirt compartment (it's a "bagless" device) and the handle houses part of the hose, which has one of the attachments already on it, and you don't even need to detach it to vacuum. It looks bigger than it actually is. There is also a battery-powered version, the FHV1200.

I recently became aware of some wheel hub extenders/adapters that will convert the 4-bolt hubs to 5-bolt hubs. They are basically two disks; the first one has 4 holes and bolts to the original hub, and the second disk has the 5 new studs on it.

Then I'll rig up a short tube stuffed with cotton. that should be about as good as a breather, and is easily made.

That's probably why the breather was oil-soaked (from the WOT oil-spray.) I will let the plater know about the baffle when I get the thing plated. But for now, I'll stuff a plug in the tube, and maybe use the old breather for show.

Would you include a PCV check valve? I suppose they make it in 3/4 inch. I'm still wondering how all that oil got through the hose and into the throttle & intake manifold. The old breather was soaked with oil. There must be a bit of oil vapor sneaking through.

That's unlikely, as the engine was rebuilt, but it is conceivable. The throttle is a good place for a leak. Still, the vent tube is unsightly, and a small filter would give it a look of purpose. Even a short tube with an inline filter would look better.

plugging the tube makes no difference.

Is there anything else than the Spectre Performance cone filters that you can use on the rocker box? The biggest one in the AP stores only has a 10 or 13mm neck, and the tube on the top of the rocker box has an 18mm (3/4 inch) tube. I thought a small diameter inline filter would be better than a 2 inch cone, and I don't like piping the oil blow-by into the intake manifold Check the lawn mower or cycle shop maybe? thxZ

I have some laminating sheets left over from last summer that I was going to try. It's similar, but maybe too sticky. The graffiti protectors are very interesting- better than clingy-plastic.

Thanks for posting the information, but I'm not impressed with the stuff. The test didn't really convince me the screen had a fair opportunity to be scratched. Also, who has 24 hours to wait after applying the spray before driving?

That's the only reason you see the brake failure stuff in movies and on TV shows- because they were staged. Now, you'll ask yourself, "How can they have a total brake failure, when there are two independent brake lines in automobiles built at the time?" (for more modern movies & TV shows, of course.)

Why don't you just travel within the speed limit, so you don't have to worry about computers, realays, or "killing lights?"

You probably serviced the headlamp-electricals more often than on ordinary cars too. Remember that these aren't sealed beam lamps, but aluminum reflectors with H4 bulbs. I tend to go for more safety than most people. I would like to get home safely than have convenience in bulb-changing, but there are limits to even that.

I see your point, but I resist using any kind of 'glue' on the headlamp bulb. If you (never) need to change the bulb, then the tape should do for a few year, at least. What about that self-fusing silicone tape? It sounds like it ought to last longer. I just wasn't too keen on relying on the electrical connector to keep the seal between the rubber cover and the lamp reflector tight, even though there are probably hundreds of successful instances.

hopefully not hot enough to melt the dielectric grease used to make the seal. Maybe we should've used high-temperature RTV silicone?

We did that to slow the car when you see a cop using radar, so you can slow down without looking guilty.

We used duct tape to seal the bulb.

I"ll look aroundtop see if thes is a rubber boot that fits more tightly. Either that, or a duct tape 'boot.'

Yeah, the butterfly doesn't want to close completely either. I have to 'blip' the throttle when coasting to get the engine to settle down so the car will slow, like when you get off the freeway. It makes a nice cruise-control tho! at 55 MPH, you can take your foot off the pedal, and the thing will just keep going until you blip it. I thought there was some kind of throttle-body cleaner you could use to get the carbon out of the throttle? You could rub it with the supplied foam blob, or spray it in. But there isn't some other kind of intake cleaner, that you suck in, like Seafoam?

When I had the intake manifold off for polishing, I noticed there was a layer of black stuff (oil vapor/carbon from the rocker box) inside, so I tried to clean that out too. I tried Gunk Foamy, and several cans of carbureter spray. From the brown liquid that came out, I concluded that some of the black stuff came off, but when you looked in the throttle hole, you could still see it was there. I even tried a treatment of Seafoam, which is typically for carbon deposites on the valves and cylinder head, but this stuff was stubborn. Is there any other way to get the carbon out of the intake manifold, besides taking it off and using some kind of industrial treatrment? the engine is together and nicely detailed, so I don't want to mess with the outsides.

Correct. Why do people keep calling it an "Emergency brake?" Yes, you could use it in an emergency, but you're better off downshifting and then finally using the Handbrake. But it was originally designed to keep the vehicle from rolling away after being parked. Remember the old foot-operated parking brake? Your dad (or grandfather) would push it with his foot to engage it after parking the car (or pickup truck, flatbed, 50s sedan, etc, as my dad had) and then pull a release handle to disengage it before driving off again.