TomoHawk

Isn't there a write-up for the HEI module installation on a stock 280Z? I don't know of anyone that has the ZX ignition module on a '78.

I think all is well, basically, My 280Z arms need a wiper blade that has the pin connection, and you can get those easily enough in the U.S., as you say, they usually come with a bunch of adapters, or you can just buy the one you need. So all I would need is a set of the stainless steel 240Z arms.

I would suggest the use of the right-angle, or "flag" terminals, to reduce the size of things

I've seen people say it's from the aftermarket window tinting to the defroster on-off cycles creating abnormalities to your polarized sunglasses. It all goes against the stuff I learned in physics class. Some people insisted it was only for older cars, but I have seen the phenomena on brand-new cars too. The most reasonable explanation I found was: These spots are caused during the tempering process. They are intentional stresses which are created in the glass to make it stronger and to control the way it breaks in an accident. The result of this is that it breaks into thousands of small pieces instead of as few large knife-like pieces..

Do you think there is some kind of rubber weatherstrip that could also work in place of the seal for the quarter window? The one I have seems to need a little shaving because it hits the window frame a little too much, or is that how it's supposed to be?

There isn't a simpler way, like a wiper arm from another Datsun that is stainless steel, and will fit a 280Z? I had to ask.

The guy must've just went straight to the picture of the switch at the bottom.

Does anyone have a nice wiring diagram for the '78 280Z headlamp circuit, showing the switched grounds? I had a "professional" install new headlamp connectors, and the dummy got the wires backward, like a new car has, with a common GROUND, Instead of the common hot wire and switched grounds. I'd like to show a good wiring diagram, showing the switched grounds... The diagram in the FSM is nicely drawn, but doesn't show the switched grounds, so you easily mistake that the headlamp switch is switching the +12V feeds.the complete wiring diagram I have is apparently too complicated. thxZ

May I presume the 240Z wiper arms will fit the 280Z?

I tested mine, and the magnet was attracted, end-to-end. That means I should go buy a set of 280Z wiper arms? BTW- Bansai Motorworks replied to an email, saying they can't help.

Those were the wiper blades, I'm interested the wiper arms.

Can you get stainless steel wiper arms for a 280Z, or are the only available in painted steel?

If you wanted to add fog lamps or driving lamps, which should only come on with the headlights, you need two switched +12V lies from the headlamp switch to power some relays. where would a good place to get the switch +12V? You would put in one or two extra wires that would operate the relays for the extra lamps.

I don't think that would fit in a suitcase or duffel bag, or i the back of the Zed when you are 90 miles from home.

Actually, the 23V car vacuums have a good amount of suction for basic vacuuming. Mine is even able to inflate my little inflatable boat. IMO, The only things that get to be problem is the wire that gets caught on things or gets tangled, the attachments that you can lose, and the hose that either won't stretch out because it wants to stay coiled, or it's just bulky from the size & length.

If you just wanted to install a couple pigtails for the relay control now, but will be adding the relays in later, where would be a good place to put those in?

I had to check the color twice, and even clean the dirt off both to make sure I got it right. According to my 1978 wiring diagram one set should have a RY wire, but both were the same, as I had posted.

These are the colors of the wires from my headlamps. The first one is the heavy wire. Wire #1: rw rb red Wire #2: rw rb red

Bruce- I'll PM to you a copy of my wiring diagram file. To me, it makes sense to decrease the size of the wire as the distance from the battery increases. The first wires from the battery carries the most current (starter motor, etc.) then you go to the alternator,which slowly recharges the battery, then to the accessories, (heater motor,) lamps, and then fuel injectors, small bulbs, etc. (smallest size wires.) the frear window defroster seems to be an exception.

I would have to dig out those wires. I do know that my wiring diagram has been correct on everything so far.

Don't forget, if you have a 280Z, the headlamp wires are different for each lamp. For example, the right lamp has red for the common +12, but on the left, it's the RY. From the FSM:

This stuff makes me wish my fingers (12 numb thumbs ) had that ol' magic from my younger days, when I could solder 34ga wires with silver in a tornado....

That would mean the headlamp switch would have two sets of contacts in it; one set for the headlamp main power, and one set for the high-beam ground.

No one has installed an electronic flasher for the hazard lamps?

We replaced the door seals, and we found that you didn't really need the seals at the front edge of the quarter windows, but I haven't been able to make a long drive on the highway or in the rain to see if any water or air is getting past the door seal. So far, I didn't hear much air noise through that area on city streets.