TomoHawk

I did finally get some switchback lamps that work the way they should on the S30. The LED switchback lamps I got came with a pair or 6Ohm, 50W resistors, used to make them flash at the correct rate, but after installing the Tridon 34 flasher, they won't be needed. I thank God that these were very affordable for only $20, not the usual $70, so I can even get a spare set, not that you're going to "need it" ( because LED lamps supposedly last 100,000+ hours) but spare bulbs are good to have. Keep in mind that you need a turn indicator with a clear lens for these dual-color (white & amber) lamps to be useful, but if you do, these will give a new way to use your turn indicators. You might even try them on your daily driver; they are very popular on the asian imports.

Maybe you could leave the reference to the kick panel, but just say to remove it if there is one there.

Does anyone have the original file for the overlays? I'm interested in putting some on, but with some different lettering and a small graphic. I'd like to make up a set in black and white.

Thanks. I don't think I will be able to find a non-working TIU, because it usually just goes in the trash.

I didn't know the 1977 280Z had a passenger's side kick panel. Do you have a photo of it?

good one.

It looks like the only thing that hasn't been solved or upgraded in the LED interior lighting is the dimmer for the gauge wights. This could be a job for Captain Obvious! Haha

I saw a reference on the Internet to "Marine LED bulbs." Are the marine bulbs different to the ones you'd use in an automobile? Both could get splashed or rained on...

Every time I see this topic on the list, I want to ask the admin to start a sticky topic that says something such as, "Don't ask about modifying the stock ECU, because you can't" ...

Besides Brands like Hella, Cibie, KC HiLites and Marchal, are there other brands that make good quality fog lamps and driving lamps? I am considering purchasing one or possibly both types of lamps. Are there any brands to avoid? Has anyone heard of "Vision X?"

Vielen Danke. Wow, some of those HEI modules have "timing control."

I was wondering if another model of vehicle used the same module, or one wit the same connector, that you might still find in a JY.

referring to Post #2, my 1978 ignition box doesn't have the screw terminals in the photo, or the screw terminals that are indicated in the schematic. the connection looks more like this: I think I 'll post an ad for a non-functional unit.

Has anyone tried this wit the ignition unit from a 280Z? I suppose It's close to the what is pictured n the first few posts in this topic, but the 280Z unit (or the later one) doesn't have screw terminals; it has a 6-pin connector. You'd probably just need to cross-reference the wires and the rest is the same. Can you get a cheap (free or non-working) ignition unit box somewhere? I'd rather not have the car laid up while you modify the ignition box, and I'd like to keep the original ignition box, just in case.

It appears that the (cheap) bulbs you get from eBay are just that- cheap LED bulbs, even thought they are labelled something fancy. Real switchback LED bulbs cost in excess of $50 a pair. The cheap LED bulbs have just LEDs, but the real switchback bulbs have some kind of electronic circuitry so the LEDs turn on &off properly. So I think I will look for some 'normal' amber 1157 LED bulbs.

that means these Chinese switchback bulbs are illegal in the U.S. because they light up white in any situation. I will put in some amber 1157 bulbs, or some amber 1157 LEDs. I read a mention of a 6Ohm, 50W resistor between Gnd and the turn signal wire, to fix the switchback problem, but I thought that was supposed to fix the quick-flashing problem you get with LED turn signal bulbs. I just don't have any ceramics left in the parts can.

After reading a number of posts on discussion forums, I think I have an possible solution: If you hook up the wiring the opposite way, you can get these LED bubs to light up amber for the parking lamps, and then bright white for the turn signals, but that's the opposite of the way they were 'designed' to work; they are supposed to light up white for parking/marker and amber when you turn on the turn signals. But I also read in a few posts that the front parking lights are supposed to be amber? I'm not too well read on the lighting regulations.

I got a pair of the switchback bulbs, and it's ether a scam, or they will not work on the S30 for the front turn indicators. The problem is the design: they are basically just 2 LEDs connected to a common ground. That means when turn on the parking lamps, the switchback bulbs light up white, and when you urn on the turn signal, they light up both white and amber. They are supposed to light up either white OR amber (white for the parking lights, then fully amber for the turn signals, then back to white.) I suppose they were designed for modern cars with a special circuit that turn the parking lights OFF when the turn signal is flashing, but om the S30, the parking light stay ON when the turn signal is flashing. I don't think there is a way to get these bulbs to work on the S30 without substantially modifying the parking lamp- turn signal circuit with new switches.

Higuys, I'm working on something new, which includes new tail lamps, and the lamps seem to have european bulb sockets. The brakes looked like they use an 1157 bulb (dual-filament bayonet base) but the bayonet pins are not offset, so none of the bulbs I have will fit. Is there a conversion list for the bulbs from American ( like 1156, 1157, etc.) so I can see if the AP store has them? If you go there and tell them is for a Zed, they will just show you the usual SAE bulbs, like the 1157, which is what I don't need. Specifically, I need bulbs for the rear turn signals (1156 amber,) the brakes (1157 red) and front turn signals (1157 amber) but they will need to be the european versions. I want to use LED bulbs too. thxZ

What are the condenser specs for the L28E?

I'm not going to use any of the bumpers or the bumper shocks from my '78. They are in good condition.

I've never been too crazy about those chromed T-handle shifters for the automatic Zed. Since mine was broken, I substituted one from a Dodge Stratus, and it works fine.OTOH, people think it now has a manual-shift trans, so why not 'give the people what they want' and install a properly sized and decorated shift knob. The auto knob attaches to the lever with a short sleeve that fits over the lever tube, and a set screw. Inside is a 5mm pushrod to actuate the detent feature of the shifter's gate, which only allows you to shiift from reverse to drive, then to higher gears.

Could you modify the knob to fit the automatic shifter? all you'd need is a short of sliding button with a ramp dealto push the release rod down.the diameter of the shifter lever is slightly larger too- about 13 or 15mm.

I'm in the same boat as mjr. My dash had a half cap that wasn't installed too well, so I tried to get it off. There was a lot of silicone adhesive under it, so a lot of foam cam off too, as well as showing the crack that were already there. I would restore it to factory specs just for the ability to get the gauges out, as well as having the center gauges fit correctly. But alas, there isn't a lightweight shipping box around, and the turn around is about 6-8 weeks...

Higuys, For convenience during highway driving as well as saving wear-and-tear, I thought it would be nice to incorporate a latching relay to operate the turn signals. I just don't remember the type and current rating you'd need; I think a simple 10A SPDT would work (for led bulbs)? Then all you'd need is a stalk with a center-off SPDT toggle switch (or a couple pushbuttons) to operate it? A friend has it on an old truck, and I liked driving with it. The only weird thing about the latching relays is that they seem to be all PCB mount design.