TomoHawk
-
Posts
7,778 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Knowledge Base
Zcar Wiki
Forums
Gallery
Events
Downloads
Store
Blogs
Collections
Classifieds
Everything posted by TomoHawk
-
You should consider changing the rheostat to the electronic dimmer. You'll get better control and brighter lighting as a benefit. I've painted my gauges as well (very carefully, with a small, flat brush and gloss-white paint) but IMO, putting in LED bubs had a greater increase in lighting the face. Don't forget to paint the back of the outer casing of the plastic front cover. Anyway, to get the arms off, I twisted them slightly to free them, and they pulled off like those of a cheap quartz movement wall-clock. Then I pressed them back on as well. I considered painting the arms with a Day-Glo paint so they shine brighter, but I decided the illumination was enough, and I don't look at the clock at night anyway (while driving.)
-
WE have been changing the filament bulbs to LEDs, and it increases the illumination that much more, plus changing the rheostat to an electronic dimmer control.
-
That's what I did. It seemed to be 'rusted on" a bit, so I turned the arms slightly to break them free, and they came off. I just wish those little screws holding the rubberized bracket to the case would come off, so I could pull the clockworks out to paint the inside. I'll paint it anyway- very slowly!
-
Those little sucker seem to be tight on there, not like they are on a cheap battery-powered wall clock:
-
My switch has never been warm, but mine is fairly new. I think what you refer to is an older switch or from an early Zed. It's still not a good idea to have both low AND high beams on through that switch.
-
Read post #13 please.
-
Yes, I've seen that. It's st00pid. What he does is to ground the low-beam side of the headlamps, so they are on, regardless of whether you switch on the high-beams. It's not a repair, just a cheap fix that bypasses the high-beam switch and could overload the headlamp switch or fuse. I would only do that in an emergency situation.
-
I will try that sometime soon
-
I was planning on making a simple wire to bypass the high beam switch, maybe with an inline toggle switch. Then if I need new one or a rebuild, I think Dave or ZcarSource can do that, probably for less than a 'new' one.
-
I have a set of new gauge faces for my 1978 280Z, and I started with the clock, since it seems to be the simplest gauge. But, the arms don't want to come off easily, like the pointer for the speed meter will. Is there a trick to getting the clock arms off? IIRC, the speed meter and rev counter pointer will come off easily, and the other gauges (volts/fuel, and oil/water) have enough room under the pointers to slip the labels under.
-
It doesn't seem right to ask 10-times what the part is normally worth a few years ago.
-
On the 1978 280Z: I would like to clean the headlamp dimmer switch contacts. I think they are dirty or fouled, and the low headlamps aren't very bright. Maybe the ground connection from the switch needs improvement. Yes, I checked the voltages at the headlamp connectors, which are full battery voltage. I also cleaned the connections under the steering column, and most other terminals or connectors. Can you take off the turn signal switch from the steering column without removing the steering wheel? If I need to, I could get a new switch, but I have time over the winter to try cleaning it first.
-
I don't see any reason why you couldn't make the bracket a two-part deal, like a clamshell, with one half keeping the ball captured. A glorified/modified washer with a few small screws would work. But after driving it for a while, it's nicer, having smoothed-out the carpet. The idle creeps a little with the heat, but it's not a problem. I think I'll add some Velcro to hold the carpet in place after the driving season ends. I was thinking of possibly getting a professional carpet-job, but with some diamond-pattern vinyl over the transmission tunnel. The current carpet was a cheap kit installed by an amateur. Goodwood revival racing live video! Sunday, Sep 7-9.
-
Mine fell off too. It seems that if you take it off once, it doesn't stay on when you put it back on.
-
I' like to hear your description of taking it apart. It seems to be welded together, unless there's a bolt on the back you don't see.
-
Some carpeting is on my to-do list, but it's an easier job than finding OE parts that are affordable.
-
Well, the idle seems to creep up (higher) a little with a warm engine, but it wasn't as bad as having the carpet holding the pedal. The warm engine col be creating a little air leak, which can be fixed, but the idle wasn't so high it makes things unsafe or requiring hard braking. I was wondering why there is a spherical-looking bearing on that belcrank bracket. I think it's to keep the throttle system from binding when the engine moves from torque effects, but an ordinary bearing shouldn't be a problem either, or any proficient driver.
-
How did the throttle linkage connect? I don't think I would notice a difference if it leaked that little bit. I think an affordable OE fuel pump or a better AFM would be more important.
-
BTW- Somene mentioned elsewhere that you could also use a Cressida or Ford Aspire throttle/AFM as well, if you need something to ponder after 17 beers..
-
Thanks. Unfortunately, the cylinder head on something like the L28 is more-or-less perfectly-designed for street use. To make use of a large-bore throttle, you'd need a cylinder head with larger combustion chambers and valves, larger ports, larger intake runners, ad a larger plenum. There is someone on CZCC that has constructed a successful twin-cam cylinder head, but that's all I've heard of it. It's too bad the cylinder head is about the only part that doesn't have a modern substitute, like the 4LN71 or 300ZX transmissions and the Hellfire EFI.
-
It was the carpet, bunching up in the corner next to the throttle pedal. I took off the little connection rods to find where it was sticking. The plastic bushings were 'gunked up' a little, but didn't 'stick.' I can smooth the carpet out, but it bunches up again after a while from your foot making the carpet move around while you drive. The plastic protector bit next to the throttle pedal just won't lay flat- can you smooth it out with some heat maybe? Maybe I can get some Velcro on the transmission tunnel to keep the carpet in place, or maybe the padding underneath needs some work. Bruce- Can you just tell us the source of your awesome throttle body?
-
I was unable to find a NEW wiper motor amplifier anywhere, and there were only used ones on eBoo. Supposing your stops working completely, is there a way to bypass the amplifier to get something like the Civic motor to operate? I haven't thought of probing the connector to the amplifier since it's in a tight place. Again, a good alternative would be to rebuild the amplifier or design a new one that directly replaces the old ones.
-
I have asked at several local AP stores, and no one has heard of the resistor caps- even the old guys at NAPA. Obviously, the young people at mainstream AP stores never heard f anything that's not on the computer, or an OE part, or oil...
-
I'm just feeling some concern about the plastic balljoints; plastic ages and gets brittle, and the old Japanese plastic used on the Zed is a good example of that. Fortunately, you only need gentle pressure to operate the throttle, so I would collect the parts as you get the money, and switch them as you go.
-
I don't feel any resistance when pressing on the throttle pedal. In stead, when you press a bit on the throttle, like if you were just trying to get the car to roll forward slowly, the throttle would stay where you had it, like a sort of high-idle. Giving it a little blip will allow it to settle down to the 800 RPM. I looked into the bearing, and it gets cocked in the seat, so I think that's what is happening- you press on the throttle, the looseness on the bearing allows it to get cocked, and it stays where it is. I don't think you can disassemble that part. It should have been designed better, with a sealed bearing instead of a ball-and-socket arrangement.
