TomoHawk

It seems there are two types of the distribution junction shell. This first type is somewhat rectangular, and the top is simply attached with screws. These are only available from Mr. reddat... the second, like I have, is a pentagonal shape, and the top is hinged and snaps on.

That i the correct part. Did any other vehicle use something like it; especially a modern one? There are no Zeds in junkyards for 1,200 miles

Higuys, The cover for my distributor (it's a 1978 L28E, and the junction is on the left side near the radiator support) has come off at the hinge point, and I have not thought of a good way to re-attach it, yet. FYI, the cover is plastic, and has a clamshell design, and contains two studs where the distributor harness connects to the engine bay harness. After an engine repair, the top cover fell off. So far I thought of using strips of rubber, Velcro, and aluminum from a soda can, using GOOP to attach it to the bottom shell. Any ideas? eBay has no auctions for the correct part, so replacing it is not appropriate.

Yeah, those first races in Indianapolis was more of a weekend festival than just a day of racing, as it took the whole day to complete the distance.

I like the first line of that document. It's really different than the dry stuff you get today. I like this thread too. It's much more interesting than "Boobs" and I hope it's more prolific than Boobs.

Remember to use anti-seize. Regular for most things, and copper for cylinder heads and exhaust parts.

You're not just letting the stuff fall to the ground when you flush it? It sounds like you end up with gallons of contaminated water to get rid of.

So you only use the Water Wetter? How are you flushing the cooling system to get all the antifreeze out? May I assume you re-use the antifreeze if it's still good?

Can you just use Water Wetter in place of Standard antifreeze? If you're not driving in the winter, then you don't really need anti-"freeze."

I understand what you mean, but I'm sure the coolant companies would say you are inviting engine failure! What do they use for NazCar?

I have read a few GRs from some vintage organizations, et al, and when they refer to competition, this is mentioned, and the requirement seems confusing. We use coolant that has anti-freeze/coolant all year long, and it provides good cooling on warm days, but if you go to one of these places, what would you do? I think water by itself would be a disadvantage in terms of cooling efficiency. Should you just drain the antifreeze and add water before you leave home (unless you have a team trailer and a supply of water?) If you just drain the cooling system, there will still be small amounts of antifreeze in the mix; would they allow that? It's probably a lot better than several gallons of slimy, full-strength coolant on the pavement. If you drain the coolant at home, would that handle the cooling requirements of driving to the event (which may be a hundred or more miles!)

The Vintage Grand Prix at Mid Ohio is coming up on June 27 - 29. Is anyone going? I have a room with ample accommodations all to myself for the entire weekend. It could be of benefit to someone. The SVRA has the event scheduled for June 26 - 29, so I don't know what is happening on that Thursday. I might even go down on Thursday to see what is happening; I suppose just trucks, trailers, and RVs arriving to set up in the paddock. It could be interesting. Our Mr. Fred Sigarto is an SCCA race official, and says he'll be there as a Marshall, probably.

even the $300 eBay purpose-built "supercharger" (a tube with a fan inside) couldn't do what those cheap leaf blowers could do. This is original video: Actually, I think they look more like overgrown blow-dryers. BTW- they didn't use a blow-off valve in their setup, even though you could put one on any kind of engine- but that's another how-to video by these guys. Refer to this video:

These two blokes that have a car mod TV show in AUS tested the eBay electric "superchargers" and discovered how to effectively add twin boost to your car that actually increases power! So you can forget about expensive intercoolers and blow-off valves...

The Bar's Leaks did it's job- stopping up the hole...

Isit normal for a new fan clutch to leak? It doesn't explain the "rock-chipping" that was there before I painted things.

I have noticed that there are little spots across the underside of the hood in the area just above the cooling fan. I am assuming the spots are from water or anything that gets pulled through the radiator on the roads or highways. These spots don't come off with a little water or rubbing, like a water spot on the windscreen. I was thinking that if you extended the top so it covered the fan blades, then the stuff would not be thrown at the underside of the hood, and it would look as nice as the rest does. So is there a recommended way to either replace the fan shroud with some that cover the blades, or is there a good way to extend it? I thought of using some small pop rivets to attach a plastic or aluminum strip about 2 inches further. Perhaps a qualified radiator shop would be able to do this?

I have used my car for two years after sealing a small leak with Bars Leaks. I think it has about 5,000 miles on the repair with most of it being highway or high speed driving.

I saw someone do that somewhere else. If you use fuses like that, then you need to make SURE that the short wires aren't the week part of the circuit; use extra heavy wires for that, or better- metal strips.

Those look like fuses. What circuits are they in, and how do you justify using fuses? They look out-of-place too.

I think I would reverse your #2, to say fuses protect the wiring from (overloads caused by) devices. But that's just me. Still, I think it reinforces the idea that Maxi fuses aren't a good choice to replace fusible links. Could you replace your tires with rubber bands?

When I first started I researching fusible links, I found a lot of talk about them on websites for modern Mustangs. If you really wanted to replace the fusible links, IMO the best thing there is out there are manually-resettable circuit breakers. Power windows employ automatic-resetting circuit breakers. I wonder how many people installed the MaxiFuses,only to find that they keep blowing, until they put in an overly-large fuse?

So now I'm off to the dollar-store to see if I can find a plastic tube suitable for holding my spare fusible links. Incense or pipe leaner containers come to mind. I think I'll do that tomorrow, since it's next to the coffee shop.

That's probably right, if if the insulation is really made of a silicone material. Anyway- I dissected the severed fusible link for the headlamps (it's a brown one) and took a few photos. I noticed that some of the copper strands were melted together, as if you tinned them with solder. The rest of the strands were corroded black, in the usual way. NOTE: You should probably install new fusible links, to provide proper protection from overloads. Old ones aren't up to the standard. The conductive part was certainly not very substantial, and it looks like the new fusible link I just got has the same size conductor, but with a slightly thinner outer jacket. I think we can finally say that a fusible link is not "just like" a fuse, as some people who install MaxiFuses think. Neither can you say that there is an equivalent amperage. As Beermanpete stated, it's simply a smaller gauge conductor, and if you wish, you could make your own fusible link, with out any "voodoo" science involved, and that it is perfectly safe to use a piece of WIRE in place of the fusible link, as long as it's the correct gauge of wire.

I remember reading some old literature that said the fuse link would look charred if it had melted (BTW- the melting point of copper is 2000! degrees F) but modern parts are different, obviously.