TomoHawk

I think I would agree with you, but that would assume you can drive with a manual-shift transmission fairly well to begin with. You need a good year of experience in all kinds of situations, like rush-hour, on a hill, snow & rain, etc. before you can to that next level of skill. You can also say the same thing about people in automatic-shift vehicles, that not having to shift allows you to concentrate on safety or the surroundings and not have to be distracted by RPMs or where the shift lever is or what gear you're in.

I was almost hit myself last summer just after stepping into the street, in a crosswalk, but a driver in a SUVon a street with a crosswalk every 500 feet. It makes you wonder if you should fake the collision to get rich?

Yeah, and 60% of that 90% thinks that a car with an automatic-shift transmission is not a sportscar. So I think that would mean Nissan, Toyota, Honduh, Kia, and Yundai only make sedans.

There is just a TOTAL lack of courtesy since about 1993. People used to stop to help motorists in trouble, but not any more. In addition, when I had driver's Ed., they taught you to toot and flash your lights before passing of the highway? That stuff could get you killed lately. I see all the same stuff, but mostly it's the speedsters. Anyone in an SUV (basically, also others with expensive cars like Lexus, Nissan, Toyota) just seem to think they own the road and that they can just go however they want. If it's snowing and the Speed limit is 35MPH, they go 35. If it's dark or foggy, they go 35. "NO problem, I have ABS and hyper-white lamps!" If it's sunny and the speed limit is 65MPH, they go 80. And if they are late to get the kids to school or the office, you'd better get out of their way so they can make it on time. "It's not MY fault I had one last cigarette or cellphone call to make or text or tweet." How about those people that barely touch the turn signal lever so it flashes almost once, and then move over so close you check the bumper for paint later? I always give a minimum 5 seconds of flashing before any turn. My favourite peeve is when you're in the curb lane (the right-turn lane in the U.S.) and you are waiting for a green light. the driver behind you gives you the signal or toot to turn right-on-red even if it's night, raining, snowing, or if a herd of elephants is in the street NOTE: In the U.S., you are permitted to turn right on red after you stop to check for traffic, and if the weather conditions allow you to make a safe turn. Unless there is a sign otherwise. But those other drivers behind you can tell it's safe for you, or they insist that you break the law to make their life convenient. The ford drivers seem to drive nicer in these respect, IMO. They enjoy their quality vehicle so much, they just take longer getting there? But there are always exceptions, like guys in Mustangs on Friday afternoon. If someone is driving slowly, it's a little annoying, but you know they are obeying the law, so you are considerate and go along until you can safely pass.

This looks like the best option so far: Dash Mount USB Power Supply it's a little expensive right now. But That Amazon.com product looks like it has a threaded body and you could just remove the flange to clean it up.

I read one DIY writeup from a Honduh owner that put together a 5V regulator and a female USB cable into an armrest. Maybe it worked for him, but the armrest was cut up and it's not very convenient having to fish out a cable, then try to plug something into it in a hurry (at a light or just not wasting time.)I'm not intending to enter my car into a highschool industrial arts show; I drive my car a lot and show it off occasionally. Besides, Mr K. didn't design the S30 that way...

I don't usually get a lot of dust in the computer ports in the house or at the office. But in the car, everything gets dust, or sometimes rain, in it. I always cap the 12V jacks because a friend had one in an old van, next to the coin tray, and a coin fell inside and the smoke started coming out. :eek: I just don't like the open, unused holes.

Don't forget it needs to have a protective cap. All my 12V jacks are capped when not in use- either by inserting a cigarette lighter element, or an attached cap. Most of the DIY writeups I've seen so far have you cut apart a cheap USB adapter and glue or adapt the guts into a hole in the vehicle's dashboard or into a square hole you cut into a removable plastic panel. I would rather pay a little extra for a nicely made unit designed for the purpose than hacking up a car that might go to a show. I did run across the dual USB socket SteveJ noted. It would work and probably looks nice installed, even with the two screws. I was looking for the same kind of thing with a threaded body and a big nut so it looks like the aux 12V jack that would be next to it. You could glue a a 12V dual-USB adapter into the 12V jack (sans elements) and solder wires to the contacts. The cap hides the guts when not in use. Tapping the lighter circuit is no problem, as long as you don't run a few 12V accessories off the same circuit and overload it, which probably won't happen, my aux 12V jack has a 10A circuit. Until I find just the right thing, I will use a 12V splitter unit that has dual USB ports, but you have to plug it into a 12V jack to use it. At least you can hide it when not in use.

I use a couple devices that get power via a USB port connection. Both require about 500mA. Has anyone seen a product that could be wired into the car's electrical system (probably the cigarette light circuit) and installed permanently? I would probably put it near the hazard switch under the radio. Yes, I have a USB power port that plugs into the cigarette lighter jack, but you have to take it out for shows, and an installed unit would be more convenient to use and have an OE look to it, if done well. thxZ BTW- I might get a new radio with a USB data port in the face, and that might be useful for charging things. Does anyone know what the current output of the faceplate-mounted USB data port is capable of?

Good idea. Drill the hole, then put a blob of sealant over/through the hole, let it set up slightly, then drivethe screw through the wet sealant.

I avoid using screws to fasten things unless there already is a threaded hole. Screws chew up or scratch the paint, and that invites rust.

If you really want the original style rivets, you can pay the extra money, but at a place like mcmaster.com, you can get more for a LOT less. For the same amount of money, you can get 100 of a very similar style, You just need to measure the hole and depth required. They come in bags of 50 or 100. OTOH, I was able to get some very similar rivets from the local autoparts. they were black plastic and had a threaded center pin that you turned with a small Torx driver.

This stuff reminds me of back when you went to the car stereo store to buy a stereo or speakers. The sales guy would turn on some music with the cheap speakers, then switch to the expensive speakers and press the 'bright' button to show how the expensive speakers had a better "high-end." Like it really made a difference to someone who grew up with symphonic music? Let alone flying in small prop planes to & from college. It makes you wonder what kind of effect noise-cancelling headphones would have in an old car like the S30.

What is your goal here? Why bother testing subwoofers in the S30? You're better off listening for the 1Hz sound of a pothole... Besides with all the rumbling from the engine, the rattling of the body, and the wind noise/tire noise, how could you tell what frequencies are what? (I used to play electric bass in a rock band, and String bass in college orchestra.) I like the punchy low sounds, not the rumbly kind (think Geddy Lee of Rush.)

FWIW I dug up a couple diagrams that ought to help. the first is the fuel pressure regulator, and shows you where the different connection go, and the second is entire fuel injection rail, to show where the hoses and metal tubes go. These are both for the 1978 L28E engine.

There is one inlet from the fuel rail, and one outlet to the return hard line, and one vacuum line connection.

He's correct. Too may times back in the days of carburetors and points have I seen people tuning the engine for "power" by ear by turning the distributor, then finding out the gas mileage went way down. Later, with the timing light, they find out how far off things were. You don't have to go out and (blow your whole Christmas budget) on engine diagnosis tools and hand tools, but if you can, things like a timing light, an analog voltmeter (or cheap engine analyzer,) digital voltmeter, test lamp/buzzer, should go on your list of things to get when you can afford it. Maybe a neighbor has the stuff, or maybe you can borrow or rent it from the local Auto parts store. Check your local second-hand store! You find the neatest old stuff there (take a notepad to record ideas for stuff to buy later.) You will figure out how much or how useful a tool is for you and set its priority on your "car tools to acquire" list.

That seems reasonable... To use the high-performance coil that is made to work with the high-performance ignition unit! I would try it only after getting the other stuff to work, and confirming there is some "high-RPM" loss. Will it hook up like the stock coil? the ECU needs the spark pulse to feed gas to the engine.

You can visually check the TPS yourself by removing the cover and operating the throttle rod. at idle, one set of contacts are closed, then as you open the throttle they open (no contacts touching) then at about 2/3 open the other set of contacts close. You don't need a mechanic to test that. And if the contacts or connection needs cleaning, you can spritz them with DeOxit (you DO have some, right?) I'm leery myself of "former Datsun mechanics." There is one near me, and I asked him to look into the high idle I get when warm. (vacuum leak?) The first thing the guy told me is "your Idle air motor isn't connected and the MAF was changed. The computer was changed too." HUH? It's a 40-year-old engine with (early) EFI.. It reminds me of when I asked the guy at the e-check station to run the sniffer in the exhaust. The first thing he said was, "where is your OBD port?" An older guy had to tell him there wasn't one...

HI Bill, There's nothing wrong with commenting about how an "upgrade" may not really BE an upgrade. The knowledgeable enthusiast should definitely know the facts from all points-of-view, to weigh them according to his experience or expectations, and then decide. As you mentioned, I would probably do this upgrade because of the lack of new or replacement parts, and if that one part (the ignition unit) fails, the whole car is useless, but for a big paperweight (or trophy?).... the alternative would be to wire in a different ignition system (like points) or to swap out the engine. Besides, this is a discussion forum, so go discuss things! BTW- During some of my online research, I read that the GM ignition module is actually capable of going to the higher RPMs, but that the coil was what really limited the performance.

In the beginning, they actually used a thin wafer of silicon, like a potato chip, but thinner.

It might be pathetic, but it sure gets your attention! That's probably why...

The really net thing about "chips" is how they got that name.

Google is a fine resource for searching, but posting links without explaining what it's for or why one would want to follow it isn't.

You will sill have to use regular adhesive tape to secure the ends.