TomoHawk
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Everything posted by TomoHawk
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So far, all I did was make a mounting plate and bolt it to the bottom screw on the coil bracket. I also bought some ring terminals and female blade connectors. Then I swapped in the MSD Blaster 2 coil I just got. The engine seems satisfied with it, BTW. I went to the AP store to get a coil condenser, but they are NLA? I will try the new coil for a few days, then hook up the HEI module.
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Most of the write-ups I have seen are for the 240Z distributor swap or something else, like a general description, but none specific to the L28E engine.
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Thanks Sarah. I forgot about the ECU wire. It's a black wire that connects to pin 1 on the ECU, but I can't tell which black wire.
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-I was going to start cutting the wires and one thing hit me: what to do with the current connections to the coil. The ignition coil has a battery connection (he + pole) and the (- pole) goes to the ignition box, or in this case, the GM ignition module. It looks like if you disconnect the OE ignition box, you can just connect the GM module to the coil, leaving the other wires connected, unless you want to remove only the (-) one and wrap for in case you want to restore it back one day.
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Value of 77-78 280z Option "Mags" and 5 slots
TomoHawk replied to pakmule87's topic in Wheels & Brakes
You don't need a professional to clean up and polish those wheels. You just need some fine steel wool, some buffing supplies and a few hours (and a few beers) for each. -
Something seems to be funny with my AAR, probably. The engine doesn't idle-down after a minute, and after driving for a short time, the idle is up to 1500 in neutral. I even plugged the AAR tube into intake manifold.
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When you install the GM ignition module, what do you do with the wires already connected to the coil? I know you should disconnect the OE ignition box.
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There is a recent thread about installing a GM HEI ignition module into the '78. People have reported success with it, and the OE ignition box is no longer needed. It's cheap enough you can buy lotsa spares for what the OE ignition box costs.
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I had a similar problem once. The engine would stall at a stop sign. The distributor pickup gap was too big.
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what are "emissions"??? I know what the gas tank is.
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On my 280Z, There is a small bundle of wires behind the passenger seat, by the door, that does under the rear deck to the rear lights and such. Right now the wires are exposed so you can see them if you tilt the seat forward, and it is held in place with something that looks like wide duct tape. Is that correct? I had a foot-long piece of plastic wire loom, so I put it on there so I don't have to look at the wires temporarily, but it's still not too pretty. I was thinking that a piece of carpet should hang down from the front of the luggage rail to cover the exposed metal of the body and those wires? thxZ
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I finished stripping the undercoating of the hood and painting it. It looks much nicer how, but the rubber seal over the radiator is marring the paint. At least the engine area is much more clean and bright. If only polishing all that shiny stuff was easy to do.
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There is a much easier way to block off the idle air. You simply loosen the two screws on the metal connection elbow on the throttle, slip a piece of card in there, tighten. There is no need to crush any hoses.
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What do you mean by other AARs? A new one? The one I have is only a few years old, and ought to be working. I had checked it on the workbench too.
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It happens even in august, when the ambient temperature is 80+. I'm going to try a thermal wrap, unsightly as it might look, to see if it has a positive effect.
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I disagree. The AAR will cool down and open almost immediately if you turn off the power, or faster if it has cooling air. The block with the coolant circuit inside is needed to keep the AAR closed while driving. Otherwise it will cool and open a little while driving.
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Higuys, I was thinking about the AAR and that it opens up as you drive so you end up with high idle even after driving a while, then while waiting at a stoplight, the engine slows down to the warm running speed. So I thought of two questions so far: 1- what kind of material could you use for thermal insulation of the AAR? 2- what would you wrap or cover so the heater stays 'hot?' and the shutter inside stays closed? For the insulating material, I though that you might use a header/exhaust wrap, which should be available at an AP store. And that part you insulate should be the horizontal, heater tube. Again, the only alternative that I think would work would be a a valve, either electrically-controlled, or manual.
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Jey, sorry for the delay, but I've tried a couple spark plug ends, and they were all too small to allow the wire to the bend and the eyelet connectors to fit on the threaded stud. I tried only spark plug boots from a car (full-size cars) so I'm wondering if there is some thin truck maybe?g like a large spark plug boot? from a truck maybe?
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The rooms do fill up fast. People going from my club reserved their rooms sometime in January...
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What I mean is that I put the wiring diagram on the kitchen table, and start following and drawing the circuit (eg. brake lamps, turn signals,radio, thermotime/cold-start injector) I'm interested in into the notebook, with wire colors and any other notes, so I don't have to stop work to go back to the wiring diagram. It saves a lot of time. If I need to look up a circuit later, I already have it drawn in the notebook (Indexed of course.)
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If the L is missing from the HLGS, does it mean it's right-hand-drive?
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I'll stick with the Ohio "Dragon." I've talked with people who went to Deal's Gap and our Ohio Twisties Tour, and they all preferred the Ohio twisties. To begin with, you have someplace safe if you go 'off.' Plus, the speed limit is more reasonable, there are no trucks, and no police escort.
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If you can, print out the section you need to refer to, and bind it. I also have a cheep notebook that I use to draw out the diagrams, wiring, etc. so they make sense and make it easier to refer to when you work.
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Thanks for the information. If you need to do a general rebuild of your car or a lot of service parts, take a look at the closeout parts; you could save a ton pf money And most of the parts are the stuff that wear out, but I wonder about the radiator fan switch they have listed for a '78. Take a look a the closeouts- you never know what you'll find there.
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public service anouncement: new brake lines for S30
TomoHawk replied to Zedyone_kenobi's topic in Wheels & Brakes
So you could call tem up and order a new complete set of fuel lines to replace the old, painted-over, corroded ones?