TomoHawk

My condensor is on the + side of the coil. Should I add another, or switch it? Where do you get condensors? the only on I've seem lately was at the lawn mower section at the DIY store.

I finally got the GM module installed, and the engine runs smoothly, but the tachometer isn't responding. I have a blue wire attached to the (-) pole of the coil, and I understand that supplies the spark signal to the ECU. The wiring diagram also shows another wire (Blk/Wht) that goes to the (-) pole, bur I can't find that one anywhere in the area. Has anyone else installed the HEI module and still have the tachometer working?

I looked at the Pertronix D2070 Module mentioned here, and the description says "race only." It sounds like it's for a 'performance' application, but isn't a L28 (or similar) engine the right thing to go with it? The description says, This is a race module that only draws 7.2 amps, a module that's optimized for the 6,000 to 8,500 rpm range. I can understand the RPM spec, but I dunno what the 7.2 Amps means, with regard to the L28E engine. That's 86W from the ignition switch or relay.

I had an idea, that since many people are upgrading things to electronic control, would there be an advantage to just replacing the old, factory wiper amplifier module? With all the 40+ year-old ignition modules I hear of going bad, I'm likely to believe that the electronics (transistors/semiconductors) inside the module could benefit by being replaced with a module built with the most modern semiconductors. You'd need to get an amplifier in working condition and reverse-engineer it, to come up with one that is an exact replacement, but with better semiconductors.

Right now, the rev counter is (dead) since there is no spark from the HT wire. The last time the engine 'ran' the revs were really jumpy- steady 800 a second, then blip to 14, then quit. I agree it might be an ignition module problem. This might be a chance to switch to the GM HEI module.

I followed he 280Z EFI book to probe the ECU pins. Everything was correct, even the resistance to the WTS. The only thing I can't check with a VOM is the ignition coil pulses, but the FSM probably tells you how to do that.

I'll have to trace those wires. Did I mention the timing is 50 before without the vacuum?

The plugs look fine, as I recently checked, cleaned and gapped them for the summer. The mix should be right. Plus I switched them just in case, with no improvement. The only thing I didn't do is to check the sensors directly, because they are fairly new. The only symptom I couldn't explain is a bit of a misfire, and the spark timing is at 30 degrees even before vacuum advance. something must've jumped? I think I have located a local shop that knows about L-Jet.

Since replacing the connectors, my engine has died. It makes no sense to me or the ECU died. or even the coil. The spark plugs looked a bit burned, as if it was oily with misfires. I have an old factory coil on the shelf.

I made the connections for the relay as in the diagram; I used the wire for the high beam as the ground for the relay, so it would power-on the lamps only with the high beams, and it didn't have the desired outcome: the lights were on no matter which headlamp beam was on. I hope I won't need yet another relay to correct the situation... What is the preferred way to aim the spot lamps? I aimed the lamps about parallel ( the spots are to the inside of the headlamps) with the high beams, reinforcing the headlamp beams down the road. I also tested them on a dark local road and they did brighten the road for a ways, but things will improve more, as I install some proper spot lamp bulbs, such as 80 or 100W Then I will take it to the turnpike and see how that comes out. The only catch is that I need to turn on the high beams and the spotlights individually, so I will need to pay attention to approaching vehicles. That, and it's just not as bright as the headlights on my new car. The headlamps are KC Hilites H4 conversions and the spots are Delta lights 60H Series rectangular lamps with 55W xenon bulbs. The headLamps are getting full voltage, but still seem a bit dim- it must be a weak ground leg.

A fire extinguisher is the only tool or item I own that has just one purpose.

I have been following the development of the foam fire extinguishers and there has been some improvements. The AFFF (Aqueous Film-Forming Foam) is getting approval from Underwriter's Laboratory, the U.S. Forestry Service, and many electronics groups, (as an alternative for Halon.) More of the foam formulations are biodegradable, less toxic to the environment, and just better overall, when compared to dry-power fire extinguishers. Only the Coast Guard has refused to accept it. The only drawback I was able to find was that when compared to certain specific types of fire extinguisher media, in specific circumstances, you needed a larger volume of AFFF to do the same job as the dry powder fire extinguishers. So, in general, the AFFF fire extinguishers are excellent for protection in a passenger vehicle. I think it is rime to get the racing organizations to recognize the AAFFF fire extinguishers and change the rules regarding them. Having said all this, has anyone bought one recently? They seem to be available only from overseas.

That might work for a backyard fire ring, but in an automobile, you only have a few seconds, to grab your fire extinguisher and get out, open the bonnet and start spraying the fire.

I think there is information on the atlanticZ website(resistance versus temperature data) to tell you which sensor should be the right one, but you'd have to buy a few then check the calibration to find the correct sensor. I think that's unless you can get one via the Nissan factory part number, which should be the correct part for your engine.

This is what happened to the gauge sensor:

Hey, Are you sure you have the correct sensor? I'm wondering if I got the wrong one (because some computer says it's "equivalent") so it might be making my engine run, but not like it should. looked at some of those things on eBay, and every one had the tab in the center. I know I replaced the thermotime switch with one from BlackDragon, but I think the others are "original" but you never know for a 30-year-old car.

You were correct. I just took a photo of mine. It has the groove centered on the old connector, as you see here. So I will try to make an off-center groove on the connector I just wired on, and if not successful, I will file off (what's left of) the old off-center tab. But in the long run, I think I will see if I can get the correct sensor & connector, just for a little piece-of-mid. Maybe someone can identify a source for the correct sensor & connector.) It's no wonder the thing was a PITA to get off, and the other slipped off easily, after pressing the retaining clip. The second photo is of the sensor itself. I'm not sure it it's the original sensor, because I replaced several including the thermotime switch many years ago.

I just presumed the offset tab was so you don't connect the things wrongly. The one is a resistance to the ECU, an I think the other is for the thermotime switch. That suggestion to go to the JY is reasonable. Besides, you can take your notepad, tape measure, camera, snipper, (sandwich?) etc., and maybe make a few notes on something you might want to get later. I could walk several miles browsing the pull-a-part in my area- and all that entertainment for just $1. But it would help to know which types or makes of cars have the needed connector.

Yes, both the sensor and the old, factory connector has the offset tab. I think I could just use a Dremel with a small grinding stone or bit to make a groove on the new connector I wired on. I can get the connector on as it is, but it's not easy. What I have is an engine harness from a BMW which I got from a recycler in AL. Vines Auto) I saved all the injector-style connectors and some others that would fit my engine, but none of the m have the offset groove.

The repair took only a few hours; I dropped the car off early in the morning, and it was done by lunch. A new tube was soldered in, not the original, which was a good thing. The old one had corrosion on the surface.

Would you believe the connection pin for the coolant sensor (for the gauge) pulled out!? I had to replace the bullet connector and thus the whole wire, and while I was pulling out the slack, the thing suddenly got loose, so I kept pulling and there was the end! FYI, the pin has a wire that goes through the sensor body, to the base of the sensor, where there's a little washer-like thing that probably generates the resistance for he gauge. The sensor is hollow. It's not leaking coolant. BTW- can you get the connector for the other (EFI) coolant sensor? It looks like a fuel injector connector, but the groove is offset, probably so you don't plug it onto the wrong thing. The wires broke off inside the old factory connector.

That's what I said, so I'm not worried about getting it to a repair place, but there is still the possibility of a little dripping from the crack. Maybe the tube could be glued in or just put a bit of sealant on it for safety in the meantime, while I order a new aluminum radiator? BTW- a couple summers ago, it was so hot that after I got back from a long drive, the vent on the overflow bottle was spurting! Somebody thought I had a leaking radiator, but I put too much water in the overflow bottle to begin with...

My radiator has a small tube on the filler neck where the overflow hose connects, and it broke off! I can push the tube back in, so I think I can at least drive it to the shop that works on radiators (Rad Air) but is this something that can or should be repaired (soldered back on) or would this be an opportunity to upgrade the radiator? There are few, if any, actual radiator repair guys left. I was wondering if switching to an electric fan would be a good idea. The stock fan is working fine, but it seems to be a bit of a drag on the engine, until you get on the freeway. I have a Duralast replacement for the stock alternator; I wonder if I'm taxing the electricals.

The relay enable switch is connected to accessory circuit- the defog switch. Regardless of whether the switch is on, the lights are off when you turn off the keyswitch. Before, I used de FOG switch to turn on fog lamps, so I'm just rewiring the relay for driving lamps, which should only need the one minor change.

A problem I discovered was that the RW wire to the turn signal lever/beam switch is grounded regardless of whether you toggle it.