TomoHawk

Did you run into Chevy chase on the way?

That could also end up in a very short trip, if you can't keep your eyes on the road.

ZCCA judges seem to do whatever they feel like: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread47138.html

So instead you sell the car sans engine, and the engine comes from the Nustad company, which you install yourself, like the crate engine in a custom hotrod

Dealer installed items as "sock" doesn't follow the precedent of being "factory installed," but it's not an owner-installed item either. Should you have "proof" that it was actually dealer installed, and not just bought from the dealer or a retro unit? The question about it would be one of, "How many or what kinds of dealer-installed items should be allowed? It looks like another revision of the ZCCA rulebook is needed to take care of this. As for the Pebble Beach thing: I think those dealer-installed items were more like post-assembly line repairs or corrections.

the last Powerball was about 450 Million? With that much, I'd try to get all the S30 dies and stuff, or the old Datsun factory even, import it all to the U.S.A., and build some new S30s

for me, the only thing I really only need is to replace the connector & boot on the AFM. Age and the elements did a number on that. I did the injector connectors, and similar stuff a couple winters ago.

I think my wires come out in the corner by the resistor packs No offense, because I think you are doing a terrific thing for the EFI owners, but I would probably keep my wiring the way it is, as I have upgraded certain things, and arranged things in an attractive way, and re-wrapped sections, so I'd like to keep it the way it is. Too bad it's probably a pain to remove & install, or I'll send it over to you for study.

That sounds like a really cool offer. Personally, I noticed that the AFM connector looks kinda brittle, so that is the only thing I would want to replace, Does your stuff route from the side in the factory way? I've noticed some cars that had the harness coming from the firewall at the back of the engine, and it looked a little nicer. I thought that you either needed new wires of the right lengths or to re-wrap the wires for the new route.

Right- I've noticed that it's usually the people that are rushing or just going a little harder or faster that get into trouble. Almost every Friday during or after rush hour on the highway there's car or minivan upside down in the grass just outside of the urban area where farm-country starts. The people that are just driving along peacefully get better gas mileage, less wear, and are more relaxed in the end. If you really need to get somewhere that much faster, take an airplane.

I've had that happen when I was kid, E. Hahaha One thing I learned that helps on long trips, is to just slow down a bit. That way there's no reason for the car, engine, or tires to overheat or whatever, and most other things will be 'relaxed' and things just overall last longer...

Yeah, us puter nerds used to be that way in college, but we started taking showers... (just kidding )As an aside, is there something like a clamp, that will prevent the belt from retracting? Sometimes you want to put it on without having to pull it out so slowly, like on a rally, where every second counts.

I helped a friend derusy an old engine block using the electrolytic method: http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/miscellaneous/rust_removal.htm

According to the 1978 owner's manual, the spare tire is a C78-14

When you check the fuse box clips, make are they are tight on the fuses. One loose fuse had me stumped for a week because the charge light kept coming on and the gauges (tach, fuel, temp/oil) went dead while driving.

While you're at it, get yourself a cheap notebook to draw up the wiring circuits for things as you work on them, or look at the wiring diagrams so you know which wires or connectors or relays to look at before you get into the car. Things like the fuel pump circuit, headlamp circuit, horn, wipers, etc. You can make notes as to which wires get 12V or whatever. Draw up the wiring for whatever the PO did. Then you might decide what to do to correct things. I also have a little 12V buzzer with wires & clips, so I can check power wires. It helps when you don't have a friend or don't walk to walk back & forth to check with a test light.

Remember that fusible links are rated by thickness, not by amperage.

Mine are a little jittery on the ends of the wipes, so I think the looseness at the eyeball joint is what cases that. I'm asking because Mr. HS30 suggests installing the felt washers onto something that is riveted together. I have a small grease gun with a pointed tip. That should easily fill cavities with grease.

How do those eyeball joints come apart? I'll probably try re-greasing things and putting in this greased ring soon.

But does he have the stickers for the optional Corvette engine?

We have found that by getting into groups or 'pods' of three or four, you can get through traffic lights, highway traffic, and such without having to use excessive speed to catch up. The problem was that the 'leaders' insist on traveling as a "club," or one large group, so they want everyone to drive fast to make it through the lights, and what looks like enough room for a bunch of cars to pull out into traffic, is really only enough for a few cars.

Don't you hate it when the Twin-turbo "sprinters" get way up ahead of you, and then call on the CB for you to pick up the pace? You think to yourself, "I thought this was supposed to be a scenic cruise to a restaurant" and these people want to pretend they doing the Targa Floria? Isn't it enough that the speed limit on these twisty country roads is 55 and you're already going 55 or so, and 70+ on the straights? It's tough being the sensible guy in a group of "sports car owners," isn't it? Apparently, if you own a "sports car" it means you have the abilities of Mario Andretti, and never look to the sides at the green blur going by...

New ones are about $90 or so, IIRC.

By drilling a small (1/16 inch) hole you could probably get a little hitch pin in, and it just might hold it together! You'd probably need two or three pins tho.

I didn't have any problems washing out my unit. I plugged one tube with s paper towel, and sprayed carb cleaner into the other to fill it, then watched it drip slowly out. Mine is new, so the fluid was clear... I'm still interested in that rubber boot tho...