TomoHawk

I replaced my weak-sounding horns with some I got from Advanced Auto. They sound very European/Italian, which to me is more appropriate than the stock ones that sound more like something off a Chevy. They mount in the factory way, without any brackets or hoses, and use the existing wire, but I did add a ground wire/connection. I used both high and low tone horns: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_horn-disc-hightone-wolo_10018606-p?

I noticed that too. I also saw there was one for two hoses. There is also one for a Porsche that has a square body, and the connector is right on the part with the shutter, instead of on a long tube. http://www.autohausaz.com/porsche-auto-parts/porsche-air_mass_meter_boot-replacement.html

FWIW, I looked to a picture too, but I found a sale for one that can be disassembled! http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-auxiliary-air-valve-ca18-57582 Also: http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1993/nissan/pathfinder/air_intake/auxiliary_air_valve.html It's a pathfinderor "CA18" part, I think. http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1993/nissan/pathfinder/air_intake/auxiliary_air_valve.html

that's odd. The boot doesn't appear in any of my catalogs, or on eBay. Can you offer any more information? Can you offer a photo?

Why do people make a big thing about the Momo shifter knob? A shifter knob is a shifter knob. I've seen millions of them. Is it solid gold or diamond or something?

OK, which Mercedes engine, then?

It's kinda weird. If you start it, it will idle down after about a minute or two. Then you drive it around a little, and when you park it, the idle goes up to 1800! I don't think it would get that cool from the airflow under the hood while driving. An insulating cover might help. Got any suggestions? I thought a little of the header wrap ( or a wool sock?) might work, tho unsightly. You could also made a kind of a mold by pressing the thing into some putty and casting with a little glass & resin....

Is that like the CD player or satellite receiver option for the Ford Model T?

A couplde weeks ago, I was getting some gas, and a woman asked me if it was a corvette. I said it was a ferrari!

IMO (from experience with my car and some hand-built customs) you need to remember a few things about car shows, and trophies: #1: Show car = NEW car. If it's not chromed, shiny, or perfectly painted, forget winning a trophy. #2: Cool car NOT equals votes! Please refer to #1. I have 10x more visitors/chats than other cars, but the "show cars" always get the votes! #3: Trophies don't mean squat. I take the "plastic tube" out of my trophies (even the First place one) and bolt it back together. Only the headpiece and the base with the engraved label remain, and they are now 5 inches tall. You can fit them on your average bookshelf that way #4: Judges don't care how popular your car is: A judged show is close to rule#1 because (usually) people with money (checkbook cars) usually get all those glitzy chemicals o the car to make it shiny, and the judges go for the blingy stuff over the original interior, wheels and paint. That is, unless you are at a marque-specific show. that's why being in a club, going to shows as a club, and regional Z meets have the significant advantage of getting you the recognition you deserve for your efforts. Even the 350Z guys will appreciate your car and your efforts over the checkbook ones. To me, a real "trophy" is when people point to your car, or the engine, or center console, or whatever, and say, " look at what he did..." or something like that. Then you have people all over referring to you or your car, and making a special trip to check it out...

I actually duplicated mine using MS Word, and a lot of work, and based on the scan of mGood's 1972 sheet. It's probably not the absolute correct one for a '78, but it looks very business-like. If I can print it on 12w x 9h inch paper, then it should be really close, except for the glue stain on the edges. Are you guys trying to duplicated the aging & wrinkling of the paper and glue stains? What about the paper itself? Was it heavy or lightweight paper, or do you even care?

It doesn't actually say "UTQG" on there anywhere. You just look for where it says "treadwear" or "load" or "temperature" or whatever rating value you are interested in. I suppose there's a reason for having a "minimum UTQG treadwear rating of 140" for the autocross ST classes as it equalizes things between cars, at least in that respect.

It would be nice to know where to look on the sidewall, like near the outer tread, on the (main ring) or by the wheel rim.What does it look like: "UTQG: 400AB" or something else (400AB)? It's not as prominent as the tire size numbers. I looked at the tires on my DD, and they have "treadwear 540"? (CooperTires 185/65/R14) I suppose passenger tires can wear less (over 50,000 miles) and still be safe to drive, compared to a higher-performance tire.

Ok, so I looked up some tires on TireRack.com, and found some BFG Radial T/A tires, size: 215/60R14 and it has a UTQG rating of 400AB (it says this in the description box for the tire.) The a service description was 91S. Treadwear: 400 Traction: A temperature: B Load Index 91: 1356 LB per tire Speed rating S: 112 MPH this on the So it looks like that tire should be adequate for some autocross in the stock or STU classes. Arne is correct that the rules require a "minimum UTQG treadwear rating of 140" so thanks for clarifying that. The temperature rating is unfamiliar to me, but that should be easy to look into. I suppose it only matters if you're doing something like driving long-distance at 100 MPH through phoenix, AZ in August?

I thought that the place where you buy the tires should have the UTQG values. I haven't talked to them since it's a new thing for me, and my tires are fine for everything else. It's just that the new ST classes for SCCA autocross require tires with a UTQG rating for 140 or more. How would you, or the autocross tech guy, know if your tires are compliant? Of course mud and snow tires are exempt- I doubt they would ever get anywhere close to the limit of temperature, or wear.

For the new autocross classes like STR, etc., you need to have tires with a UTQG rating of 140, but the rating isn't literally seen on the tire's sidewall. Instead, you get a bunch of other stuff like tread wear, traction, and temperature. So how do you go from there to the UTQG value? thxZ

It looked to me as it it caught some air under the bottom, because at first it lifted & rolled to the right, then tumbled to the left.

Is there a writeup on this? The JDM website says to look through the pictures, and it has some little things you can barely see. thxZ

Besides performance, my main concern is to keep the RF noise to a minimum, or none at all. I'm not too crazy about what color the wires are, but why do they have to be so much longer that you think they should be, especially when the description says they (MSA brand NGK wires) are custom made for the L28 engine? For the American-made engines, the wires pretty much hug the block or head all the way to the spark plug. The MSA wires are all about 3 or 4 inches too long. I've knocked one off a few times while checking the oil or working on that side.

Nope. He was always to breakfast on-time.

I suppose a spare glovebox door is a reasonable thing to have if you go someplace where you might meet someone like Mr. Matsuo or Mr. Brock. Unless you keep a 10mm socket or Phillips screwdriver tucked away, some kind of fancy card taped inside the glovebox is about as good in a pinch. I keep my ad-hoc autograph book in the glovebox nevertheless. I had breakfast with Mr. Jordain several times during ZCON 2008, and it never occurred to me to get his autograph. He's just too nice a guy, and I had to get back to the car to get to wherever the event was for that day.

That's very cool. The only significant autograph I have is from **** Rutan, at Oshkosh before his global record-setting flight.

If you were to have someone famouZ, say John Morton, autograph something for you, would you use a part from the car? I've seen people getting the sunvisor or glovebox door autographed. Either of those isn't easy to remove. I have a kind of autograph book made up of wire bound note cards, so the ink (Sharpie ink) doesn't bleed through, and it's stiff enough to write on otherwise. What else is there, unless you get spare parts and take them with you?

I noticed that even on the hottest days last summer, the engine went straight to a higher idle even if you let it sit for a few minutes with the bonnet closed. A wrap would probably be functional, but not to pretty I suppose.

Would be of ay bebifit if you put an insulating wrap on the device? I think it would keep it from cooling too soon.