TomoHawk

That's very cool. The only significant autograph I have is from **** Rutan, at Oshkosh before his global record-setting flight.

If you were to have someone famouZ, say John Morton, autograph something for you, would you use a part from the car? I've seen people getting the sunvisor or glovebox door autographed. Either of those isn't easy to remove. I have a kind of autograph book made up of wire bound note cards, so the ink (Sharpie ink) doesn't bleed through, and it's stiff enough to write on otherwise. What else is there, unless you get spare parts and take them with you?

I noticed that even on the hottest days last summer, the engine went straight to a higher idle even if you let it sit for a few minutes with the bonnet closed. A wrap would probably be functional, but not to pretty I suppose.

Would be of ay bebifit if you put an insulating wrap on the device? I think it would keep it from cooling too soon.

I found out the Ford units use a stepper motor, so it should be inherently proportional, if you can figure out how to get the motor to move the right amount.. Since the L28E is an electronically-controlled engine, it's more appropriate to use similar parts when upgrading. So far, it looks like the best thing is the original Bosch unit, so when you get a new one, get several.

You could just get one of those electric fan thermostat switches? It would provide instant on-off functionality, which would probably drive you nuts, huh? If you want real "analog" idle control, then you'd want to add in a transistor to control your air valve. That assumes you've got an air valve that you can open partially. IMO, a stepped opening (full-open, half, closed) would be better than just open-closed. After quick search I found that the Fords have something similar, but I couldn't tell if it was a proportional thing or on-off, and you'd need to modify the intake, but it was dirt cheap ($30 new,) so you could get one at the JY easily (probably.) It's just not the flow-through design that thew L28 engines use (so we keep looking.)

You'll still need to run wires inside to a switch, unless you can devise some kind of timer or temperature-controlled switch.

I remembered the warming plate because I found it in my tub of "unneeded spares" after the engine was installed! Unfortunately, the L28 engines don't have the coolant "temperature switch" that the earlier engines had, but I think you could install one in the same location. That way you'd at least have a way to activate some kind of valve at the right engine temperature (when it's "warm") and not really needing to watch the temperature gauge, or run more wires inside and install a switch. If you couldn't install the OEM coolant switch, I think you can get a temperature switch that you could probably bolt on to the thermostat box.

IIRC, there is supposed to be a block under the AAV with coolant going through it, so it should be experiencing the actual engine temperature, instead of the temperature of the intake manifold, which is shielded from the exhaust manifold to stay 'cool.' I"m surprised that it doesn't fail about a year after it's installed, as the element inside stays (hot) all the time that the engine is on. There ought to be a kind of manual electric valve that you can control from the driver's seat. I keep thinking of the choke units on carburetors... How do those work?

Isn't there a way to substitute a solenoid-operated valve or similar that won't fail after a few years?

Things are reassembled now, but maybe I can get something.

I was able to push the eyelet through the spark plug boot easily with some silicone grease, but for some reason, I couldn't get the boot over the stud on the alternator. I don't think it will be a problem, as long as I keep the area and connections clean. If I find something better (or just bigger) I will try it later, but the spark plug boot was a good idea.

There was no need to remove the entire dash panel. I took out the glovebox, centre console, etc., and the HVAC tech guy was able to install all new rubber vacuum lines in an hour. He says the vacuum sound was from a leak in the main hose to the intake. So I reinstalled everything today, and I now have full control over the heater functions. Now I can drive around until November, in comfort and have a clear windscreen (after a brief warm-up.)

Since I can't see up there or get up there with my hand, I can't can give you an answer to that. Sorry, but thanks for the picture anyway.

I looked into this, and after removing the glovebox, there is nothing you can get to, except the defroster nozzle & hose. This vacuum hose is not reachable, and so is beyond my abilities.

There was never any air-conditioning stuff in the car ever since I had it. but it's the vacuum line. I squeezed it, and the sucking noise stopped. I traced it up as far as I could reach, but I will remove the glovebox to see what else I can see. Do you even need that one? I only hear the noise when I use the heater or defroster. thxZ

In a 280Z, can you reach the to of the water valve to replace the vacuum hose without have to take the whole dashboard out? Maybe you can you just reach in where the heater core is?

Do you mean 'fuzzy' push-in fasteners/rivets along the top? I was thinking of using some nice screws or another type of push-in fastener/rivet.

ZCCA rules are only to be used at sanctioned ZCCA events, and your local traditions are probably different. If you want to let people get up close, just minimize your display. The wind and anything else can be easily accommodated.

The tradition is to have any display on the ground in front or next to the car, so the sign needs to be on a support. Also, ZCCA rules require any display to be on an easel in front of the vehicle.

I think some of the corrugated plastic sign board will come in useful. You can attach the vinyl to it and use whatever glue or tape you like around the edges and the entire sign is supported, and won't sag. It's also flexible like the Lexan, waterproof, and protects the vinyl from rain. Plus it's minimal and very lightweight, which was my goal.

The information is printed on a large piece of white vinyl, so it shows anything you might use as an adhesive. I think they use a large inkjet printer, so I was considering adding a graphic or a photo.

Whatever you spray on the sign will show through the Lexan window. I think he 3M77 has a yellow color? Too bad you can't get clear spray glue. Maybe some clear double-sided adhesive tape dots; It would minimize what you see through the Lexan. Where do you get those?

OK, so you want to build a display or sign with information about your car to hang on an easel so people can read it... I have a large lexan sheet with the bottom bent back like a foot to support the thing on the ground or a table, and the sign is a big sheet of vinyl (about 20 x 22 inches) with stuff printed on it at the copy center. The problem is; how do you stick the vinyl to the lexan? You could tape it on the edges, which looks sloppy. You could use double-sided tape around the perimeter, but you'd have to put a few strips in the center to support the center, and that will stick out too. What other options are there, besides using a backing of plywood, card or more Lexan, which adds weight? Has anyone else made a sign for their car? thxZ

If you had a 'stock' class with a limit of the number of customizations, what would you do with the vehicles that are over the limit? They should probably get moved to a group with more customizations or to a 'modified' class, but that sounds like a lot of extra paperwork, to re-class the entry. Probably a (hefty) penalty for the extra customizations would be in order, in stead of a disqualification from the class altogether.