TomoHawk

Is there a writeup on this? The JDM website says to look through the pictures, and it has some little things you can barely see. thxZ

Besides performance, my main concern is to keep the RF noise to a minimum, or none at all. I'm not too crazy about what color the wires are, but why do they have to be so much longer that you think they should be, especially when the description says they (MSA brand NGK wires) are custom made for the L28 engine? For the American-made engines, the wires pretty much hug the block or head all the way to the spark plug. The MSA wires are all about 3 or 4 inches too long. I've knocked one off a few times while checking the oil or working on that side.

Nope. He was always to breakfast on-time.

I suppose a spare glovebox door is a reasonable thing to have if you go someplace where you might meet someone like Mr. Matsuo or Mr. Brock. Unless you keep a 10mm socket or Phillips screwdriver tucked away, some kind of fancy card taped inside the glovebox is about as good in a pinch. I keep my ad-hoc autograph book in the glovebox nevertheless. I had breakfast with Mr. Jordain several times during ZCON 2008, and it never occurred to me to get his autograph. He's just too nice a guy, and I had to get back to the car to get to wherever the event was for that day.

That's very cool. The only significant autograph I have is from **** Rutan, at Oshkosh before his global record-setting flight.

If you were to have someone famouZ, say John Morton, autograph something for you, would you use a part from the car? I've seen people getting the sunvisor or glovebox door autographed. Either of those isn't easy to remove. I have a kind of autograph book made up of wire bound note cards, so the ink (Sharpie ink) doesn't bleed through, and it's stiff enough to write on otherwise. What else is there, unless you get spare parts and take them with you?

I noticed that even on the hottest days last summer, the engine went straight to a higher idle even if you let it sit for a few minutes with the bonnet closed. A wrap would probably be functional, but not to pretty I suppose.

Would be of ay bebifit if you put an insulating wrap on the device? I think it would keep it from cooling too soon.

I found out the Ford units use a stepper motor, so it should be inherently proportional, if you can figure out how to get the motor to move the right amount.. Since the L28E is an electronically-controlled engine, it's more appropriate to use similar parts when upgrading. So far, it looks like the best thing is the original Bosch unit, so when you get a new one, get several.

You could just get one of those electric fan thermostat switches? It would provide instant on-off functionality, which would probably drive you nuts, huh? If you want real "analog" idle control, then you'd want to add in a transistor to control your air valve. That assumes you've got an air valve that you can open partially. IMO, a stepped opening (full-open, half, closed) would be better than just open-closed. After quick search I found that the Fords have something similar, but I couldn't tell if it was a proportional thing or on-off, and you'd need to modify the intake, but it was dirt cheap ($30 new,) so you could get one at the JY easily (probably.) It's just not the flow-through design that thew L28 engines use (so we keep looking.)

You'll still need to run wires inside to a switch, unless you can devise some kind of timer or temperature-controlled switch.

I remembered the warming plate because I found it in my tub of "unneeded spares" after the engine was installed! Unfortunately, the L28 engines don't have the coolant "temperature switch" that the earlier engines had, but I think you could install one in the same location. That way you'd at least have a way to activate some kind of valve at the right engine temperature (when it's "warm") and not really needing to watch the temperature gauge, or run more wires inside and install a switch. If you couldn't install the OEM coolant switch, I think you can get a temperature switch that you could probably bolt on to the thermostat box.

IIRC, there is supposed to be a block under the AAV with coolant going through it, so it should be experiencing the actual engine temperature, instead of the temperature of the intake manifold, which is shielded from the exhaust manifold to stay 'cool.' I"m surprised that it doesn't fail about a year after it's installed, as the element inside stays (hot) all the time that the engine is on. There ought to be a kind of manual electric valve that you can control from the driver's seat. I keep thinking of the choke units on carburetors... How do those work?

Isn't there a way to substitute a solenoid-operated valve or similar that won't fail after a few years?

Things are reassembled now, but maybe I can get something.

I was able to push the eyelet through the spark plug boot easily with some silicone grease, but for some reason, I couldn't get the boot over the stud on the alternator. I don't think it will be a problem, as long as I keep the area and connections clean. If I find something better (or just bigger) I will try it later, but the spark plug boot was a good idea.

There was no need to remove the entire dash panel. I took out the glovebox, centre console, etc., and the HVAC tech guy was able to install all new rubber vacuum lines in an hour. He says the vacuum sound was from a leak in the main hose to the intake. So I reinstalled everything today, and I now have full control over the heater functions. Now I can drive around until November, in comfort and have a clear windscreen (after a brief warm-up.)

Since I can't see up there or get up there with my hand, I can't can give you an answer to that. Sorry, but thanks for the picture anyway.

I looked into this, and after removing the glovebox, there is nothing you can get to, except the defroster nozzle & hose. This vacuum hose is not reachable, and so is beyond my abilities.

There was never any air-conditioning stuff in the car ever since I had it. but it's the vacuum line. I squeezed it, and the sucking noise stopped. I traced it up as far as I could reach, but I will remove the glovebox to see what else I can see. Do you even need that one? I only hear the noise when I use the heater or defroster. thxZ

In a 280Z, can you reach the to of the water valve to replace the vacuum hose without have to take the whole dashboard out? Maybe you can you just reach in where the heater core is?

Do you mean 'fuzzy' push-in fasteners/rivets along the top? I was thinking of using some nice screws or another type of push-in fastener/rivet.

ZCCA rules are only to be used at sanctioned ZCCA events, and your local traditions are probably different. If you want to let people get up close, just minimize your display. The wind and anything else can be easily accommodated.

The tradition is to have any display on the ground in front or next to the car, so the sign needs to be on a support. Also, ZCCA rules require any display to be on an easel in front of the vehicle.

I think some of the corrugated plastic sign board will come in useful. You can attach the vinyl to it and use whatever glue or tape you like around the edges and the entire sign is supported, and won't sag. It's also flexible like the Lexan, waterproof, and protects the vinyl from rain. Plus it's minimal and very lightweight, which was my goal.