TomoHawk

I just got a replacement for the coolant overflow bottle to replace the cheap one the PO had, but it didn't come with the bracket. It's a 1978 model. Can anyone offer one? thxZ

I've been watching this show for a couple days, so I looked up the complete list. You'll notice that there aren't any Datsuns on the list but the 1989 Dodge Aries is?? **choke** :sick: It makes you wonder what criteria they used to determine which cars go on the list. There's a couple trucks on the list. Sorry, only half the list is available, because SPEED TV cancelled the show in 2008, after the first season. 1 - 1956-1958 Studebaker Golden Hawk 2 - 1970 Plymouth Superbird 3 - 1955-1957 Ford Thunderbird 4 - 1951 Aerocar 5 - 1964 Chrysler Turbine 1 - 1966-1968 Alfa Romeo Duetto Spider 2 - 1957-1977 Fiat 500 3 - 1948-1990 Citroen 2CV 4 - 1985 Renault R5 Turbo 2 5 - 1981-1983 De Lorean DMC-12 1 - 1990-2005 Acura NSX 2 - 1971-1977 Chevrolet Nova 3 - 1960-1969 Chevrolet Corvair 4 - 1949-1980 Volkswagen Beetle 5 - 1955-1965 Porsche Speedster D 1 - 1958-1960 MG-A 2 - 1964-1967 Sunbeam Tiger 3 - 1981-1989 Dodge Aries 4 - 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 5 - 1955-1962 BMW Isetta 1 - 1963-1965 Aston Martin 2 - 1930-1931 Bentley Blower 4½ Litre 3 - 1987 Buick GNX 4 - 1951 Buick LeSabre Concept 5 - 2006 Chevrolet Corvette ZO6 1 - 1975-1980 AMC Pacer 2 - 2006 Hummer H1 Alpha 3 - 1942-1945 Jeep 4 - 1961-1968 Amphicar Model 770 5 - 1968-1976 BMW 2002 1 - 1958 Edsel Pacer 2 - 1972-1974 Ferrari Dino 246GTS 3 - 1954 Porsche Spyder 4 - 1949-1951 Mercury Coupe 5 - 1940-1971 Lincoln Continental 1 - 1966-1970 Myers Manx 2 - 1966-1977 Ford Bronco 3 - 1909-1927 Ford Model T 4 - 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler 5 - 1957-1962 Fiat Jolly 1 - 2006-2008 Mazda RX-8 2 - 1967-1977 NSU Ro80 3 - 1970 Chevrolet Corvette Mark IV 4 - 1960-1982 Checker Superba-Marathon 5 - 1936-1940 Austin FX4 1 - 1932 Ford Hot Rod 2 - 1955 Chevrolet Bel Air 3 - 1975 Honda 600 4 - 1998-present smart fortwo 5 - 1953-present Mercedes-Benz Unimog

The port liners seem to be in good condition, with no rust, so I think I will just leave them. Optimizing everything else, especially the distributor, will be enough of a job.

The thing here is how to figure out when you need to jump on the gas pedal to get the perfect .400 or .500 second RT. It takes so long for you to react to the light, to jump on the gas, for the engine to start spinning, the torque converter to build pressure, and finally for the car to start moving through the starting lights. So far it seems that trial-and-error is the way. But instead of wasting your money and a day (or several) to try things, there should be a way to figure out about how much anticipation you need to have. Unless someone has any ideas, it looks like you need some electronic stuff to figure this thing out.

BTW- reaction times are 0.400 or 0.500 seconds, depending on which starting system you use.

I suppose you could screw the idle up to about 3000, or use a solenoid-operated high-idle valve? That ought to be fun in the staging lanes.

Diseazed got it. The RT is not really from when the lights turns green to when your front wheels break the beam. but the time the from the last amber to when the wheel breaks the beam. Alls and w perfect reaction time is 0.400 seconds, not 0.0 seconds. If you got an RT of 0.0, then you got a red-light. So if I got a .700, it took 0.300 seconds to hit the gas and get rolling. That sounds kinda good, actually (0.3 seconds) for ran old car with an old automatic with a 600 RPM stall. Actually, the tire probably broke the beam as soon as you let of the brake, and it still takes 1+ seconds to get the car going or accelerating. If you could two-foot it, you could probably actually get an RT of 0.400 with the car accelerating, not just rolling. My trans doesn't seem to like the power-braking stuff.

The Interne practice trees are fine to see how your mouse buttons are working, but I don't see any correlation to real experience. When you are there, you have adrenalin, some fear, no experience, a bunch of "flashing lights," a LOT of noise, some strange, random thoughts, and et cetera. You can use the practice trees to figure out your game plan, but then you have to take it with you to the strip, or the street, to practice and learn it so well that all the noise and stuff at the race track can be factored out. I think knowing how your vehicle responds to your control changes is the biggest part of working out your timing. I suppose somewhere there is a mobile application that uses GPS data to measure your actual reaction time, so you can practice without having to drive 50+ miles to a track.

I gave a go at drag racing one night last summer for fun. IIRC, my "reaction time" was 0.7 seconds, and a guy I met there said that's not good for serious competition, and I should work on it. AFAIK, the reaction time includes in your reaction to hit the gas pedal, and the time it takes for the engine to get the RPMs up to get the torque converter to spin and get the drive wheels turning. So if the reaction time was 0.7s and the green light illuminates 0.4s after the amber ones, then you should theoretically hit the gas before the amber light illuminates? There must be something I'm missing from my Internet research on drag racing. Can anyone help or explain? Any tips? I'm not going after trophies, but it's not so good seeing the other car out in front by the time you thing you have the gas pedal pushed to the floor. It's a stock JATCO 3 spd. with no line lock or other fancy stuff. thxZ

Is that a big improvement, or a small one? At this point, I might rather prefer to just get the engine back together and in the car, than ask the engine guy to start another 'project.'BTW- it's an N47 head and N47 intake, and stock exhaust manifold.. thxZ

My cylinder head has the square exhaust ports with the steel liners. Is there any advantage to removing them, and how do you get them out? I was thinking that they might be an unnecessary restriction, and removing them would improve exhaust flow. Also, How would you recommend matching the exhaust manifold to the exhaust ports? the only thing I can think of is to use the gasket or clear plastic and compare and compromise. thxZ

I have some Rustoleum BBQ paint left and sprayed some onto a test panel. I think it looks close.

Are you sure the WP102 paint is correct? I sprayed a spare grille with some, and the color looks fine, but it looks like it has metallic particles in it.

I have the full cap and I need to remove it t get the speedo or tach out to change the light bulbs. I haven't glued it yet, so I can still remove it easily. The glove box door opens easily when it and the latch plate are properly aligned. The instructions I got with my item said the you should use a number of (wood) sticks to press from the seats to the cap, to press it into the old dash until the adhesive cures. I suppose that if you know where to press, the cap should come out straight and smooth. The problem with the un-attached cap is that there are gaps between it and the center gauges, which looks a little odd. Also, the forward edge doesn't go under the defroster finisher, and you can see it through the windscreen from the outside. So if you can paint it with an non-reflective paint, it should work out well.

I like the openness oft he interior, and the lack of "stuff" like buttons and digital things. New cars are like driving a computer, but the older cars are more about driving.

I disagree: Per the FSM, it doesn't affect the fuel delivery. There is nothing "theoretical" about the device. The purpose of the BCDD is to let a little extra air into the intake manifold when you let off the gas, while coasting, to keep the mixture a little more even, so the engine doesn't pass a puff of unconsumed fuel out the tailpipe. See attached. Page EC-5

I was able to remove the BCDD from my throttle. I made a cover plate and screwed it on, with a little RTV sealer. I needed to verify which of the vacuum tubes went to the little hole in the throttle throat for the distributor vacuum advance. I haven't been able to tell what effect having the BCDD solenoid unplugged has on the engine's operation.

If you want simple or cheap modifications or bolt-ons you should've bought a Chevrolet instead of a Datsun. Mr. K designed the car just as perfectly as is possible. You might want to consider WHERE you take your date in stead of how fast you go on the way there.

I've noticed that too. Even on the hottest summer days, with a warm engine, it goes straight to the higher idle when you start the engine. I've had the idea to insert a plug into the hose with a small hole in it to allow a smaller amount of air in, so the idle isn't so high, or possibly some kind of manual or electric valve, in addition to the AAV that you can open on cold days.

I'm not so sure the usual street car could make the trip up there. It might not be all nicely paved roads.

Don't forget the one on the alternator. At mean, my '78 has one there.

The GForce chip will improve your fuel injected engine by 60 HP!

I owned an Escort Mk 1 for a while. It was cool to drive until it was stolen. OTOH, how would the Trans-America Challenge compare to the Power Tour?

ZCurves- Why not skip the clear coat? Or is it a sealer for the color layer?

Thatr' what I meant. It looks like they just grabbed some ordinary people off the street.