TomoHawk
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Everything posted by TomoHawk
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Reading hat makes you wanna go out and put one in right now! Do you have a favorite module to suggest? I read that some of the modules don't work so great above 5000 RPM. Maybe something from a 4 or 6 cylinder engine would work?
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I thought that the wiring diagram was too simple... I think the wires labeled 'ECU' are for the distributor, but I will cross-check things.
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I summarized the writeup from ZDriver. It doesn't mention the 280Z ignition box, but we are still discussing that. Upgrade - Chevy HEI.pdf
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This is great news :laugh: What was the total length of the video?
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Not in the last week or two, but after the dyno test problem, I went through those things and it all looked fine.
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There seems to be a problem with the spark. The engine runs smoothly, but during a dynomometer test, the guy couldn't get a good enough signal to measure the RPM. The timing light confirms that there is an intermittent miss on #1. I expect consistent, rhythmic light flashes, but every few, a flash is missing. I suspect the ignition box may be faulty or dirty connections, or whatever. In any case, parts are getting extremely expensive, and rare, so modern alternatives are good to have.
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Their search system over there must be wackier than it is here.
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I looked into this upgrade, and all the information was aimed at the 240Z, which is great because it uses points. One article was for the upgrade on a 77, but the wiring on a '78 is different enough that I think it deserves its own writeup. The connection of the GM HEI module to the distributor seems fine, but what do you do with the ignition box inside the car? So, is there a writeup for the GM HEI module upgrade specifically for the 1978 280Z, using the stock 280Z distributor, not the ZX one? thxZ
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that's easy. Just find a place that employes quantum physicists, and borrow his time machine to either: 1- send your car back to 1973 (or whenever) to return things to "new" condition 2- Go there yourself to get factory-new parts
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A somewhat COLOR wiring diagram for 1978 280z's....ENJOY!
TomoHawk replied to awolfe's topic in Open Discussions
The document is 174 x 52 inches. At that size, you could use it as a full-size template to make a wiring harness! -
A somewhat COLOR wiring diagram for 1978 280z's....ENJOY!
TomoHawk replied to awolfe's topic in Open Discussions
You just gotta find a place to print out that big sucker. -
Personally, I'd like to see or read all the stuff that didn't make it into the book.
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Anny word on things? You can never learn too much about it, and practice makes perfect!
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Higuys, The engine guy says he's about ready to take the engine out of my car, so I called a place (RPM, Central, Utah) to check on the availability of a 'Master rebuild Kit.' The guy told me the mater kits are available, but only with flat-top pistons. I have an N42 block/ N47 head, but I'm not too experienced in telling if the flat-top pistons will work with my engine, or what affect it will have: Can I still use regular gas? Will the engine run well on the street? thxZ
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Simplicity is beautiful. It's nice & shiny too You gotta tell us what all that stuff is between the throttle body and the flow meter, and what you did to the intake.
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Ah.... the never-fail-one-speed-wiper-motor-with-instant-park....
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Because the wiring/electrical systems on cars are "complicated" and they think they are simplifying it or removing a "problem." What was connected to those three remaining wires?
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It might be close to you, but 200 miles is a little far from me.
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I starated the restoration & repair of the other front splash liner. It just about fell apart when it was removed. I just need about 14 more coolant jugs.
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I gave this idea a try while it's snowing, and I think I ended up with something useful. You just print it on legal size paper and have it bound with a wire coil. AutoX LogBook pt Runs (legal Paper) .doc AutoX LogBook Course Info (Legal Paper) .doc
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Does anyone know of a qualified shop to work on an L28E in northern Ohio? I know a guy in Cleveland that used to hotrod the 240Z engines back in the day... thxZ
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It's too bad the injectors are just to darn difficult to remove individually.
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It's guaranteed what caused the problem is incredibly simple, like a bit of dirt or rust in the injector tip, but sometimes finding the problem isn't.
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Have you tried any of the injector cleaner products? Maybe all you need is to get the orifice cleaned so it can close. Also, make sure the injectors are operating. New injectors are very expensive compared to a bottle of injector cleaner. A clean fuel system is a happy system, and a healthy engine.
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Engine rebuild or not? and to what extent?
TomoHawk replied to rscottm's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Ok, so you want to just attach a new water pump and/or oil pump. Can you still get them? Yes, you can. MSA has the water pump at about $40, and the oil pump is about $60, if it is in stock.