TomoHawk

I'm not too keen on Ohotoshop, but maybe someone here is, and would give it a go, to perfect the graphic.

We did get it to go 110 MPH at 5500 RPM on a dynamometer last summer. Anyway... this topic is about the Datsun graphic, of which was made 4 copies, about 12 x 20 inches overall on adhesive-backed vinyl, and I'll stick it on some magnetic sheet stock soon.

Yeah, I back-calculated the figures to recover the 35 years of use... others are to keep in-line with all the opinions/memories I'm given. the stuff at the top, Mr. K's autograph, and the wheelbase are correct, AFAIK.

Sorry, but all the local printers just do small signs using some cheap graphic software. The one I used actually tried to recreate the logo himself but 'couldn't find the right font' so I insisted he just go withthe graphic I provided, which is what I wanted in the first place If you want Flexisign, you gotta go downtown to the places where they make the old-fashioned billboards. If you try someplace like the OfficeMax cop/Print center, you're on your own, as they only accept finallized documents like PDF files, because they don't want to mess with things themselves- just print what you give them. This is what I did to make a 20x 22 inch Display sign (below) for the car. I was able to put together a graphic which turned out OK. It's an EPS (photoshop) vector file, so it should scale well. Uncompress the attached zip file and there you go. Datsun_logo.zip

Mine hasn't had the chrome since I got it.

Yours did turn out really nice, but on the 280Z, those strips are much narrower, so it ought to be less noticeable to the average spectator. So I think I'll look into the paint pen idea.

You would have to build a time machine to go back to the 60s with the 'secret formulas' for all that stuff, like the UV-stable plastics, superior engine and body design, non-corroding steel alloys, and show them your perfectly-average American physique for measurement, then convince the tightwad execs to spend the extra money to modify their 'already proven' engineering. practices. While you're at it, get the real scoop on who did what in the design of the marque. You might even bring back some low (zero) mile examples of the 240Z, in perfect factory-new condition!

There is an upgrade to the OEM fan, and that graphic from Blue makes me wonder if you could use all 4 outlets (the two defrosters, and the two dash vents) to defrost a larger part of the windscreen.

How would it work on the chrome door panel strips? That's the only thing you can't paint with a gun.

How about using common parts from other manufacturers (like our check valve, or how ford/Chevy does with the brakes & driveline parts) so that replacement parts will always be available, ensuring a long-lasting history of the marque. I can understand how you feel. I'm not short, but I have to put the seat forward to get a good push on the brake and gas pedals, but then the steering wheel is close in to your chest.

I think everything is just great on (my model) car. The EFI system is serviceable without a special digital interface, EPROM programmer or computer, as is the rest of everything under the hood or the car, and you don't have to replace the distributor points every few months. The car has beautiful lines, a well-organized interior, and is comfortable to sit in and drive. But.... Would standard (imperial, or inch) fasteners count? I can relate to either system of measurement, but I have two toolboxes for the different collections of sockets and spanners! I would really appreciate better quality wiring, connectors, and rubber parts (seals,floor plugs, window gaskets, etc.) Those 'cheap' quality copper wires with the inferior PVC sheathing didn't hold up like the stuff on the neighbors 1968 (10 years older!) Mustang. The way the wires were bundled or wrapped in the interior could be improved, especially the stuff behind the gauges and the centre console. At least the latter can be corrected with some effort. Better quality interior plastic pieces that don't crumble when you try to restore it after 40 years. Is there such a thing even now? But then the cars would cost $1500 more when they were new.

From all the golf balls I found in the back of my car (in the tool bins, under the deck, in the spare wheel well, etc) I think I can conclude that one of the owner(s) played a lot of golf. Furthermore, I found out that my bag of golf clubs fits perfectly on the deck behind the seats!

There are a few topics about the Maxifuse swap, if you care to read those. My goal was to simplify the number of wires on the starter terminal. Sarah- I'm thinking more now, that grabbing a fusebox from the JY will handle all my future needs, even if I 'borrow' the a/c relay slot to operate some headlamps :pirate:

I have been adding wires to the starter motor pos. (+) terminal/bold to run power to a power inverter, and I might add some extra lamps or headlamp relays to the front end, and you can barely get the nut on that starter terminal bolt now, so I think it would be better to have some kind of power distribution point near the battery? Some ideas I thought of are to grab a small underhood fusebox from a small modern car or to add a terminal block to the fender near the alternator. What options are there that would be appropriate for the S30? I'll add that the positive battery clamp has a pigtail on it that is already in use, so I think I would add an eye terminal to go to the distribution point from the battery clamp. thxZ

If you have that much experience, why not strip off all the old paint? You gotta be careful putting the new stuff over that old stuff.

The best thing to do, if you could, would be to go to the Z convention or a big Z meet, and get all the photos (or video) you can of the stock cars and for your model. But in the meantime, look through the gallery here.

You can't get that encapsulator at the local auto parts store.

Is there a specific name or style for the cable ties used in the engine bay wiring bundles? I'm referring to the ones that plug into a little hole on the fender. The best I can do for now is to look up "push in cable ties' or 'panel mount cable ties.' You want to make sure you get the same kind and not mix them, like I see sometimes on the hoses. thxZ

Of course... specially if you can afford them! I gotta stick with whatever you can get at the pick-N-pull, but, IMO, I think mine are fine for the marque.The other thing I see happening is what to do when OEM parts are actually no longer available, even from rusty parts cars. For example, the electronic ignition and EFI systems. You may have to resort to substituting hand-made parts, but you may still be able to have them (look) fine.

Have you considered using the bedliner coating instead of paint? It's oil and chemical resistant (brake fluid easily removes the OEM paint) and chip resistant. Done well, it looks as good as the usual satin type paint.

Unless the wiring for the starter has been really modified, you should be able to find the original wire that connected to the starter solenoid, and extend it as necessary. Since you are willing to start adding relays and other new wires, you might have to dig into the wiring harness to find the original wire, or restore the starter system as it initially was.

IMO, it seems reasonable to add something to the Z car only if it was normal or usual to find it on other cars of the same era. AFAIR, cars of the 70s didn't have Recaro seats as OEM parts, as well as video screens and 10-disk CD players, subwoofers, and the boom-box speaker panels. Cars owned by high school kids usually had loose speaker boxes, with a 10-foot extension, in the back. Race cars had the bumpers removed and sometimes had big fender flares, roll bars and nitrous bottles. Only custom-prepared "show-car" engines had polished or powder-coated intakes, exhaust, chromed EVERYTHING, and urban-themed cars had the 'ghetto shine' on the tyres. I still meet people who insist that the basecoat-clearcoat system was the normal thing in the 70s, so you just bite your tongue and change the topic when that comes up. Those people are obviously living in the media- corrupted today, and probably watch "Overhaulin" too much, instead of studying how the real classics were done. That's why I just walk past the new Corvettes or anything built after about 2000, and look for something the real character. Usually they have some rust on the body or are assembled with bits of interesting junk. I don't call it a molestation or abomination- I just look for something else, like the hotdog vendor. :classic:

It's a little late to announce the event, but some of us Ohioans (from the Cleveland Z Club and the Columbus Z Club) were at the event. It was the Rolex Grand-Am championship weekend. Nissan Motorsports was there as a major manufacturer. They had one big tent (the "Chalet") on 'Championship row' and a big setup at the manufacturers midway, showing off the 370Z and the new LEAF, as well as Paul Newman's Nissan IMSA GTP car and the new PS3 GT video game.The winner of last year's video challenge was there, as a driver. Continental Tire was there showing off tire technology and their lovely models. There was an opportunity to do a few parade laps (the pace car driver didn't understand everyone behind him was capable of going over 25 MPH on the tighter turns) but people were definitely pointing and waving at the two Classic Z Cars as they went by. There were paddock tours, where we met a few drivers and the chief instructor for Mid Ohio School. Continental tire was there with 6 big trucks full of tires, and demonstrated how they mount & balance racing tires. We also some great catered food both days. I believe Speed TVs roving camera guy got some video of the Z cars on the driveway from the infield to the track for parade laps, and he seemed to focus on a certain green classic and it's driver! :laugh: The Rolex Gran Am championship will re-run Sunday, Sep. 25 on SpeedVision. If you'd like to see some photos of the event, click on this link: the http://actsmarketing.smugmug.com/Nissan/Nissan-Z-and-GT-R-Owners-Mid-O/19125654_qD2g7R#1489306527_vfwK39h

After the welding, were you able to polish the welds? Did it all come out equally shiny, like it was solid aluminum, or can you tell where the welded spot was?

Is there such a thing as an sensor system (rpm, temperature, oil pressure, or any other basic stuff) that you can clip onto the L24, L26, or L28, and uses an OBDII interface with a Bluetooth wireless connection? Maybe you can even get a Bluetooth exhaust sniffer? You can get software that runs on a computer and you can record & display the data, for tuneups, for example, or use it for other stuff like dyno calculations, track laps, etc. There are Bluetooth OBDII interfaces, but those rely on the engine's ECU, and we all know that the S30 hasn't one- even the 280Z, with its "EFI system." (I still meet people who argue you can 'reprogram' or "chip" the 280Z's EFI system. :stupid: thxZ