TomoHawk

So much for the "Just put a simple SPST switch on the fuel pump wire" system.

Would you please be more specific?

The 280Z (1978) doesn't use those. You may be misled when browsing eBay auctions to think that the 280Z does use them, because most sellers attract buyers by listing any and all Zed parts as "fits 240Z/260Z/280Z/280ZX" when it actually doesn't. The fresh air is obtained by a 'scoop' formed from the forward-bottom edge of the inner fender/splash guard, and the channel located along the upper edge of the inner fender channels the air to the floor vent inside. The 240Z uses those plastic tubes because it has no inner fenders.. But if you've removed the splash guards, is it still possible to add those back to the car? The location where it attaches to the inner fender doesn't seem to have much stress on it, compared to where the air channel attaches to the firewall. Could you cut a hole near the drain tube for a 4cm plastic pickup tube? BTW- this Cabin fresh air is different than the one under the slotted cowl panel at the foot of the windscreen; that is the fresh air for the heater and demister.

Does anyone know the actual current under load of the Fuel pump on a 80Z when it's in operation? If you wanted to install a kill switch of some kind it would be good to know, and I don't think it has a corresponding fuse.

Historical texts and documentaries are never "outdated."

There is an example of am American marque that dominated every American race, then dominated in Europe as well.

Good. The books I like to get are actually old books, not books on racing antique cars

The point of the topic is to have something pleasant to read, in stead of watching what is on TV, which is nothing. You don't need to define any particular interest to have something pleasant or interesting to read.

I"m not asking anyone to do that.

I'm not involved in much racing, but I like the occasional country drive or a lap or two on a track. So in the off-season, I sometimes buy a vintage book on the subject. Last summer I bought a very good documentary of the "Greatest Road Race in the World," the Mille Miglia, which means "1000 miles." It's an Italian race on open public roads 1923-1957 that covers a large part of Italy, sort of like the Targa California. I just got another book called The Technique of Motor Racing, by Piero Taruffi. He discusses how to drive, in 1950s style. What book(s) do you have on your bookshelf, or which book(s) would you like to have? Some books may only be available as a PDF, or may be in someone's possession, and maybe with a little (arm-twisting) we could get that person to share the book in some way (I will photograph the pages of an old book and make a PDF file from the images.)

Before I buy this year's coolant additive, I looked at some competing products such as Purple Ice, and comparisons between it and Water Wetter. There was a video of a comparison that mentioned Water Wetter sometimes creates a brown sludge or slime that ends up in the overflow container, but Redline says it's just a reaction between it and some of the chemicals in the coolant. Has anyone noticed this? Redline says that it's not a bad thing, and that the brown stuff dissolves in the warm coolant. I think I will be using Purple Ice this summer. It supposedly has extra chemicals to fight corrosion and lubricate the water pump parts.

Maybe I'll get one of those plastic center cap inserts, sand it off the clips and a bit more, and GOOP it on instead of engraving.

I contacted all the trophy shops in my area, and they cannot engrave on something like a wheel nut/spinner. They can only engrave on something flat with a maximum diameter of about 4 inches. Plus, I would have to first remove the chrome, then engrave, then re-chrome the part, and it would look bad. From what I know, the nuts were stamped with the logo before being plated.

Would this work with the Bosch ECU and ignotion (or HEI module)? The circuit kills the ignition by shunting the coil (-) side killing the coil for a half-second. It works with either points or transistorized ignitions. The ECU also gets a signal from the (-) side of the coil, and I think it would disable the injectors too, so I don't want to damage the ECU either. I'd like to ask out electronics experts if they think there is a real risk of damaging something. If not then I think this gadget would make a nice anti-theft device. The only thing that might be a bit of trouble would be to hide the switch that enables the device. The protective (plastic) box it goes in needs to be hidden, and the wiring used to connect it to the coil would look like normal connections, especially after you put on some plastic wire loom or wrap it with tape.

I was planning on diverting the wires straight back to the firewall,but not under the fuel rail. I'd like to get the sensors, wires, etc. sorted out, and possibly even lengthened, before moving them. I too thought of pinching a wire frame from somewhere. I'd rather not remove the webbing from between the runners in case a fuel hose might leak or drip fuel on the exhaust manifold. When reading about airflow meters I noticed that some 1970s BWs had the AFM 'on its side' meaning the black cover was facing the bonnet. That would make the connector accessible, and better protected from rain & dirt from underneath. I think you'd only need to make a large angle bracket of some kind. BTW, the BMW AFM has a special resistance track at the lower-flow end. It's supposed to improve the mixture at low revs.

Has anyone tried substituting a fixed resistor for the coolant sensor? The engine will still operate, but you may need to make sure the coolant was within the operational temperature range to get the full performance, which is what we do with these classic engines, anyway. The goal is to reduce the amount of wiring on top of the intake manifold. I suppose you could use an adjustable resistance, for special conditions, like we do to richen the mixture, which is in addition to the coolant sensor. I think that's the only resistance the ECU needs, besides the air temperature from the Airflow meter, and the airflow signal the from AFM itself.?

YOu can just search for endoscope Iphone on eBay. There are also bluetooth and WiFi versions too.

11.21 minutes, but I stuck it in my ear, and because I couldn't get the damn thing to work by just plugging it in. I had to try it in 4 different tablets. The first thing I viewed was the number buttons on the TV remote. That's what the magnet is for? I also got a screw-on thing that has a little mirror on a 45. But for $10, it's not like the $900 ones the doctor has, or the TV stuff.

It gives me an idea: to use a shopvac and blow air into the footwell vent and maybe I can see where it comes out. Otherwise, I don't have any vent tubes.

I'm not sure about that last one, but the other ideas are good ones. I'll add snaking through the foot vent to see where it comes out.

HIguys, I thought I'd mention something you might like to hear: I just received an endoscope via eBay, that works with my Android tablet. I think I'll "look into" my engine, *if* it gets warm, or whenever Spring comes along. It might be interesting to see what the pistontops look like. It's supposedly waterproof, but I don't think I'll be looking into the rocker box. It was about $10

I keep asmall bottle of the Collinite wax in the car, and I give things a wipe if I go to a show or cruise, after it cools, obviously.

What is available that you can use as a sealer? Some kind of high-temperature, satin-finish, clear paint? Powder-coating isn't appropriate for everything. A good metal wax is usually a good thing. It cleans, seals, and protects polished metal surfaces. My preference is Collinite 850. Be aware that most "Metal Waxes" are just polishes.

The intake manifold is a kind of cheap cast aluminium, so it will polish, but eventually oxidize from the heat. The only ferrous parts are the supports for the fuel injection system. I think if you just work carefully, you can do it. You might apply some masking tape to prevent scratches. I also think you should consider plating the throttle parts as they will rust too.

I fixed the small problem in the linkage that I had from working pn the throttle. I added another spring so it would close every time.