TomoHawk

He's right. You can't just hook up a switched power wire to one of the new automatic powered antennas. You can use the factory-style antenna switch, but with the modification as indicated. I used a micro size DPDT rocker switch on my antenna, but I first rebuilt the motor with new brushes.

Has anyone tried a dynamometer application on a smartphone or tablet? I thought it might be a good idea to find one that actually works, and get familiar with it with the regular car before trying it with the Zed. Almost anything ought to be better than the "seat-of-the-paints" testing. Some apps use the accelerometer sensors, some have you drive from zero to 7000 RPM (or the redline) or just start at a crawl and go to about 60MPH or so. Most of the applications also need inputs like the vehicle weight, driveline losses, frontal area, drag coefficient, etc., and a mount that is strong and vibration-free. If they really work and provide reasonable results, then it would be worth the savings in dynamometer rental fees to find a deserted road for testing somewhere.

How can you verify that, unless you have an air-fuel meter? AFAIK, the TPS and coolant sensors, etc., are working, and I checked all the input lines to the ECU connector within the last few years.

I have read about single layer racing jackets recently from reading about drag racing safety. The jackets are supposed to be certified SFI 3.2A/1. Would that pass the scrutineers for SCCA/low-speed lapping? What is the intended use for that? Should I expect it to be bulky or heavy? I was considering getting one, because they are not to expensive (about $60) and seems a practical piece of safety gear for certain low-key events, like lapping, rally, etc., or just as a fancy windbreaker for the car, and would probably be better than the old-fashioned boron treatment.

I've had the radiator catch bottles inspected for every autocross event and most every time I go to a race track for lapping. The open the bottle, then say something about the brown liquid at the bottom, asking if that's rust or the antifreeze. For other places, the rules simply say you need to avoid antifreeze or 'slippery solutions.' Maybe tjhe racing organizations just assume you will be responsible with your coolant, so it's no in the GCRs.

I think I will chance to Purple Ice for next year. It has an anti-corrosion additive, which is something I think would be good to have.

I like the old-fashioned way of tinkering with the Zed, just like my home-made PWM light dimmer, so I'll keep working with the DIY stuff, unless you'd like to buy one or me

Unfortunately, the car is put away for the winter, but I will be making a script to carry out, as this stuff like ZedHead suggests sounds reasonable. But usually, I keep light pressure on the gas, so the revs are probably about 2000 - 2300, for 45 or 55MPH (for country roads.) Too bad you can hook up the BT OBD recorder, like the other car has. Recording the engine tach would not be easy, unless you can hang a smartphone around your neck, but I will see if I can fab up a bracket or something.

The best sensor to use would be the wide-band (4-wire) ones, but I think those have heating elements in them, which requires something more than just connecting the wire to the battery. Is there any idea what could be used?

It seems to me that when you stomp on the gas pedal, it takes a few seconds for the EFI to catch up to throttle opening wide or the RPMs. Is that about right? I think modern cars can react faster so you don't notice it, but when you are on the highway or a country two-lane road and you want to pass, having to wait 10 seconds (forever) can be scary, especially if you see a truck coming your way. Is there anything you can so with the Bosch L-Jet to help with that condition?

After all the work to design a PCB and collect the parts, I found a kit ay jaycar in Aus. https://www.jaycar.us/display-fuel-mixture-module-ego-10led/p/AA0374 Right now, I just want to get 'a' sensor so I can play around with the thing, Sometime after Christmas, I will look into ordering a new sensor. BTW I figure you can get a sensor from any 4 cylinder car? just look aft of the catalytic converter? Maybe there's one even before it. I'll let you know if there's any progress, but the thing really isn't of much use unless you thread it into the header pipe... The reason this sensor interests me is that I'd like to figure out what I can do to fix the lean condition you get when you stomp on the throttle pedal.

By-the-way: just inserting an oxygen sensor into a tailpipe is not going to be enough. You need to push it as far as possible so you will get an honest reading. I've read some DIY discussions on this subject where the builder chose a length of small-diameter copper pipe, or a long welding rod, etc.

I'm going to make an air-fuel ratio meter finally. I finally have reviewed all the relevant information, like narrow- or wide-band sensors, or how many wires on the sensor. I found a schematic and developed a PC board, and ordered the parts. I still need to get the sensor (a wide-band sensor) which I could get from the JY still this year, weather permitting. I'd like some advise as to which types or models of vehicles would have a wide-band sensor. I suppose I would just take some vice grips and climb underneath to unscrew the thing,. They are about $10

That plastic lens cover is out of stock. Right now, I need to find an original cover in about any condition, because somebody touched mine and it fell apart. Does anyonehave a spare?

It looks like I got the engine drained just in time. It froze last night, and the weather forecast for the next week is for cold and snow. I will just fill the thing with water in the Spring, with some Water Wetter. Is there an anti-corrosion additive like you get in antifreeze? Water Wetter only provides a lubrication improvement.

I like the idea of a bulb with both radial LED chips and a projector end.

I am in no need for a dome now.. A retractable wire would be nice too, but then it might be a little too modern. The LEDs would be the limit of the modern-ness.

Go your local super store that stocks every kind of energy drink and tell us which one it is.

I did finally find a website that will provide a list of compatible tire sizes for most wheel sizes, and for my 4x15 wheel, I'd get a 175/80-15 tyre. It's just about the same circumference and will fit almost flush with the rear deck.

I have recently thought of this myself... After making a cardboard pattern of the bottom of the plastic dome, I browsed the isles with the body sprays, hairsprays, deodorants, etc. and found a bottle of Neutrogena facial cleanser at a local discount grocery store. The clear cap matched the pattern fairly well, so I bought the bottle. When I got home, I found out that it fits perfectly over the old dome. Now I only need to trim the old dome close to the base, and glue the new one onto it. It's too bad the kids don't visit any more, as they might be able to use the ($6 bottle of ) facial cleanser, so it went into the trashcan. It would be nice to have a better replacement for the dome, probably made of lexan (something that won't discolor from heat or underhood fluids.

Thanks mate, I was never able to find such a comprehensive explanation to all the different tyre designations, even on the tirerack website. Every place I looked tells you about the P-metric system, or the American system. (such as 23x6-15) http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/tyre-size-for-rim-size-width-calculator

That is a popular tyre size for that size wheel.

Thgis is a little off-topic, but what size tyre would you put on a 15 x 4 inch wheel? 105/70-15 maybe?

I found the same page long ago. It's too bad there was no consistency or sense with the tyre information of long ago, like there is now.

We are not debating the correct tyre size for a Zed. The question is: what is the equivalent modern tyre size for a period tyre of 225VR15. It appears the aspect ratio is 70%, but there hasn't been a consensus so far, nor any official literature or trusted Internet information to refer to.