TomoHawk

You've got the right practice regarding the driving lamps, but I did look into the laws regarding fog lights in Ohio, and it does say that when you switch the headlights ON, the fog lights should go OFF. BTW- I hope you have all flat roads and driveways in your area, so you don't knock them off- they seem to hang precariously low... Many people will dismiss it by saying it's a low-wattage light, but that's not the problem. IT'S ILLEGAL, and about half of them are dangerously configured, as I said. LEOs don't care; they probably do it themselves on their personal vehicle. COOL-- Samsung Galaxy 7 phones are COMPLETELY PROHIBITED on commercial flights. You can't have them in your pocket, or in your baggage or anything. They're a known and dangerous fire hazard, so leave yours at home and get yours exchanged immediately- if you live long enough.

I see it every day, and even more at night: people with fog lights on when it's a day (or night) with fair weather, and no snow rain or FOG. But people still drive with the fog lights ON. The problem is that about 50% of them are aimed badly, and it shines at an oncoming driver. Some are extremely bright, and blinds the oncoming driver! In Ohio where I am, it's definitely illegal to use them, unless the weather conditions require it, but people still turn them, or leave them, ON. I'll bet the "salesman" (obviously an expert driver) recommended to young people that it's a "safety" advantage to sell automobiles, and they tell it to everybody else, who ignorantly accept it. Isn't that what DRL (Daytime Running Lights) are for- safety? All you really need is your headlamps, properly maintained.

Yes, it (non-slippery coolant) was a requirement by some of the places I visit in my summer travel this year.

With all the carbon fiber parts being made, it's a wonder why a splash pan hasn't been offered for the Zed. Back to coolant additives...

I suppose I will have to order one and try it... I suppose the exhaust manifold-header discussion should be avoided too? "Everybody knows" a header gives better performance....

I read a number of discussions elsewhere, and the common opinion was that the clutched- fan was MUCH better than the non-clutched fans, for cooling and less power loss. Then if you add a flex fan, you decrease the drag some more. NO one commented about noise, except in regards to an electric cooling fan. The white plastic fan is not easy to clean and people complain that the 'race car has a street-fan on it.' The former reason is probably why I'd like a 'prettier' fan. IMO, as long as the clutch is working (and you can hear it engaging while you idle with the bonnet open) It will be fine, unless someone has a very significant reason (like up to a 45 HP gain) to take off the clutch.

I think that less weight and drag would be the reasons to switch.

Higuys, I've been looking into the flex fans, specifically the Flex-A Lite fans, and the variety of fan types is confusing. You can get 6-blade fans, 5-blade fans, fans with "wide blades and narrow ones: The first photo is a reverse-rotation fan (I think) and the other two are normal-rotation fans. I think I would select the 6-blade fan with the narrow 'paddles' although I'm not too sure what the difference would be between the narrow and wide ones would be, besides the amount of air flow. Any advice would be appreciated. I think it's a normal rotation fan. I'm not in a hurry; this would be a winter project. It'll take that long to figure out hot to get the top half of the shroud off The blue colour seems to be close to the colour of the engine, but can you get other colours? I like the clean look of aluminum or stainless, and I have some "chrome" or aluminium coloured paint...

Since the clutch seems to be the right size for the spacer, do you think it would hurt to leave it in there?

HIguys, I finally got to switch over to the Water Wetter this summer, so I can cruise some race tracks. I just drained the cooling system via the drain at the bottom of the radiator, then filled it with distilled water and added the Water Wetter. I don't think the entire contents of the cooling system was emptied, as I only put 2 gallons (8 quarts) back in, so there was probably some antifreeze still in the mix. In the spring, I will drain it again and add distilled water and fresh Water Wetter, so it should be more of an optimal situation. The good news is that since I made the change to Water Wetter, I noticed the coolant gauge was always a bit lower than usual. Usually the needle is at the center of the operating range (185 degrees) but now it is slightly lower. I'd say it was the usual 15 degrees cooler. I'm assuming the thermostat is working, because the engine warms up quickly instead of taking a long while, as if it was removed ( we used to do that with the muscle cars.) A question: Will the Water Wetter coolant freeze in the winter under average Ohio winter (0-30 degrees F) conditions? The vehicle will not be driven- only stored. I think I will look into changing the stock fan to a flex-fan, but do you still use the clutch with the flex-fan?

One of the small half-round covers that covers the bottom mount/bracket of the hatch lift is missing, so I'd like to get a new replacement. The ZCD doesn't have it on any of the diagrams, and I can't find a photo of one via a Google search. What exactly is the thing called? Can anyone tell me of a source for one? It's the passenger side part.

I'd still like to replace this switch, if anyone has done it, and I'd like some tips. It seems the switch doesn't come out with the wires, or the wires are caught on something, so the dash has to be removed to replace the switch.

Is there a service manual somewhere online for the brakes on the 1979 toyota pickup? It would be nice to have a reference to explain what all those springs & clips are, and how to put them on correctly, so you can replace tha pads.

I usually hang out in the chat room if I can't go to a cruise-in or just need to rest. I've met a number of new people who ask about using the forum, or for some kind of advice. With 24,000 members here, you'd think that there would be more people chatting about stuff. IMO, most people that enter the chat room don't see a friend or someone they know from the forum, and finding no one, they leave. That's their loss. On another forum wit a hat room, the chat room usually has about a dozen people talking. Even the HybridZ chat room is active and all they talk about is turbos and Mega-Squirt! Akl you need to do is to look for the little purple number by the chat button on the button bar, and see how many users are there

How do you get to the darned screws?? You must need a specially-bent wrench.

The window frame doesn't move when you loosen the screws. The screws for the striker must be frozen too.

DJ- From what I can tell, the window frame is aligned well. If the top was tilted inwards, I think you could tell. If it was tilted out, I'd think it would rattle? But I will try your suggestions on Monday, unless the barn is full of dust & trash- we're replacing the windows & doors, and doing some renovation on the inside walls.

The Kia door seal is already on the passenger door, and it fits well and the door closes easily and completely. I'll try your suggestions. The problem could be as siple as a misaligned window frame.

My driver's door doesn't line up on the rear edge, and it needs a slam to close it. From the looks of the gap along the top of the window frame, I think the door is a little lower at the rear. It fails the dollar bill test. So I have two choices, I'd say. I can align the striker or loosen the hinge bolts and align the entire door. Are the striker bolts usually really hard to turn? I think I might need an impact driver to get it loose... For the hinge bolts, what would be the best way to get to those? it looks like you need to take the fender off to get to them, unless you use a universal joint on a long ratchet extension. Or maybe a "good" body shop could take car of it more easily.... IMO, the one that painted the car last summer didn't bother to double check the doors.

I had success using the 2-pin electronic flasher with a chime unit from a Yundai. It goes inline with the +12V supply, then to the chime, as in this diagram: The chime now provides a pleasant and steady ding-dong ding-dong sound. The only thing left is to assemble it and add a connector, then install it as a lights-on reminder in place of the current one. Oh- Thanks to Captain Obvious for the tip on using the Yundai chime.

45 minute heats. In the regulation book it says: Each grid will compete during a 2hrs 09 min. Race to be split in 3 rounds of about 43 minutes. A pit stop is mandatory from the 15th minute (00hr 15min 00s) and before the 30th minute (00hr 30min 00s) of each round after the real start (rolling start) has been given.

Did anyone attend the LeMans Classic this year? I'm still trying to figure out exactly how they run the event...

You just put it in-line with your lamps? The other ones (with 3 terminals) need the earth wire too.

Hello, I didn't know there were the two speaker locations in those back corners; My back panels are completely solid- no sound holes. I do have the 2 speakers under the quarter windows. They mount in those big round holes under the window, and there are 4 threaded holes that you put screws through to hold the speaker. Then the plastic panel has the upper half of the sound holes and the vinyl panel has the lower half of the sound holes. The speaker wire goes from the speaker down to the hole at the bottom like your does. The vinyl panel has a small channel to help hide the wiring. I added two more speakers in custom boxes in the back, and the wires were routed along the main harness on the passenger side, under the seat and to the radio area. I did use the factory radio connector to the fuse box, but only for the power, as it only has connections for the two factory speakers. The photo following shows the panels I have with the sound holes, wire channel and clip slots hth

You know those 2-pin electronic flashers that you can get? I would like to know more about how they work, so you could use it for other stuff besides flashing the turn indicator lights. I have a few in the parts box. Most of the stuff I read involves plugging them into your motorcycle, but could you just hook it up to a 12V battery to flash some lights, like on a sign in the front lawn? If you used the old-fashioned bimetal flasher, you need a lot of current or resistance, but would it work for just a few LEDs? The one flasher I looked at had only the B and L terminals.