TomoHawk

Let's hear from Redwing. What do you think of your original question or idea? Would you revise it or try something else? Some people think this topic is "silly," but there is NOTHING silly about a car fire or any emergency event, and it is NOT SILLY to be knowledgeable or prepared. Even when I earned my BSA Lifeguarding merit badge, we learn it is most dangerous to perform a swimming rescue, but we still learned the right way to do it. Someone mentioned that gloves are not well suited for 'fire fighting' but if you race, you are required to both have the fire-resistant gloves and have a fire extinguisher within reach. Why bother if you only need to escape? why have a fire extinguisher with you if it is basically useless? Yes, we should discuss this and other types of emergency events, what to do, essential equipment & action, and how you could just avoid one in the first place.

Real Leather gloves are naturally fire-resistant, but not that much, so it's better than bare skin, and should be enough to get the bonnet open for the application of an extinguishing agent- my favourite is the Flame Out fire extinguishing foam.

Do you guys see a problem with using regular or better-quality brake shoes with superior-quality (braking) pads? The pads are from StopTech

240 nm (nanometer) wheels just wouldn't look right on a Zed

You mean 240 Nm, not nanometer....

having no brake booster sounds interesting, since I have to pump mine anyway. A writeup sounds interesting.

Where would be a good place to get a drum brake hardware kit? While I'm in there, I could clean & paint the area.

Sorry for the bad grammar, but I wanted to keep the title short to get greater attention... Most of the threads discussing (rear) brake shoes are from around 2004, so I thought there might be some new stuff available for the rear brakes. My needs would be "performance street riving" with some occasional lapping. Is there anything new or recommended for the 280Z with Aluminum drums?

I coated the floor last fall, but I'm still considering what to do with the 2x4 walls. Maybe I'll paint them white. I'd like to at least put up some pegboard in places and maybe paint those white. 60-year-old 2x4s aren't that interesting to look at.

You had a good eye, bro. That's the oinly image I have from the whole weekend, and I had 3 computers with me, but no camera.

My car would be in Group 3.

Hi Fred. You must have been hiding in the crowd as usual. I probably walked by you at some time. I did the parade lap(s) both days, so I would have gone by you. The red car, #39

Good! Mine has the 4 inch front speakers, and 6x9 speakers in custom boxes for the back. I usually leave them out unless I go on a long trip. I think I will put the bulb back into the defogger indicator, so you will see when the fog lights are on, but so far, I just painted over the "DEFOGGER" so it only says FOG. But, where did I put the darned bulb?

I finished the fog lamps wiring. I used the deprecated rear deroster switch for the control power for the relay, and mounted an insulated stud near the shock tower for a power distribution point. The relay has an integrated, bladed fuse. Now you can only turn on the fog lights with the main power/acc circuit on, so you can't forget to turn them off, and no new switches were needed. The lamps I mounted are Lucas Square 8 lamps.

I finished the fog lamps wiring. I used the deprecated rear deroster switch for the control power for the relay, and mounted an insulated stud near the shock tower for a power distribution point. The relay has an integrated, bladed fuse. Now you can only turn on the fog lights with the main power/acc circuit on, and not new switches were needed.

Thanks, Chuck. I like a flag on one shoulder and a Datsun on the other shoulder.

Thanks guys I keep picturing the Gulf Porsche suit James McQueen wore in the movie LeMans with a bunch of unsightly "required" patches all over. I like the stripes that match the colors on the car. If I were to make up a vintage suit, It would just have a few things: American flag Racing Association Name Manufacturer One sponsor (if the patch is very small) One or two major sponsors (on the back)

I have read some SCCA regs on what's required to go on a helmet, such as putting your name, birthdate & blood type on the back, and the safety sticker is supposed to be there, but I haven't been able to find any regs on what, if anything, goes on the suit. I would suppose a patch with your name goes over the left chest (pocket) and one with your team affiliation, if any, probably on the other side (pocket.) ad the SCCA patch, for SCCA licensed racers. Is there Anything else that's truly important/required? If there are any regs, please tell me where in the GCR to find them.

That explains a few things about you now, also...

It gives a new mean to a "painting party",,,,,

I would like to paint the inside of the garage; specifically, things like the doors, woodwork, and anything you might touch with dirty or oily hands, besides the workbench and plastered walls. Sometimes I even get soot on the garage door if I start the car before opening the door. I would like opinions or experiences with paint that can be cleaned with household cleaner, ("awesome" cleaners, dilute SimpleGreen, etc.) My preference is satin or gloss white, as the place is brighter at night. I considered washable latex, floor/patio paint, and even epoxy garage floor paint.

What does the number matter? I'm used to see the 46 in the photos, but the car number is only for scoring. Gone are the days when the official number-painter-guy painted on the number just before the race.

IIRC, the fund raising effort almost reached the $85,000 goal, and the owners put in some more.

I selected the Black & Mild with a wood tip. I also plugged the hole in the tip, because I don't care for the taste of raw tobacco any more. I still end up spitting a lot tho; apparently the flavour still gets through to get the 'juices' going. It still takes a bit of discipline to drive with the thing in your mouth, without letting it fall out as you look around or do things. So you can practice your 'cigar grin' whilst you look classy and drive your classic sports car.

Remember the 2013 effort by the Bonk Brothers to give John Morton another try to win the SCCA Group E race? Well, the #48 car is for sale: