TomoHawk

Thanks Tom, Any course, seminar or school you can get to will probably help you out if you ever want to try any racing. I was curious about why some are called 'safety seminar' because it sounds like something not involving any kind of competition. No info on those on the SCCA website. I think I would add that the defensive driving courses for regular street driving are also good. The courses aimed at racing need some caution though, because your insurance might not cover any damages, but the defensive (racing) courses are geared toward basic driving skills so the insurance should be good there.

Can you get those metric hex bolts with the phillips slot anywhere? The only thing I can get easily is zinc-plated hex head head machine screws. Those look nice, but aren't the original style, and the original ones rust easily. thx

What exactly is your point?

Has anybody been to anything like: SCCA safety seminar NEO driver's school M.V.R. driver's school What do they talk about or teach a those things? Is it any good to go even just to listen or watch? thx

Thanks guys, I think I will look for one on eBay, but whatever I get, I'll have it blasted, epoxy coated and painted with Ford blue thx

Don't you think the OEC people have enough money yet? How many more of OUR milions do they need to be satisfied? Thet could roll prices back to $2 or so and still be taking in oil tankers filled with $$$ after delivering their load of crude. In a way, I kinda hope that they suck all the oil out from underneath themselves, the ground collapses into a giant sinkhole, and floods with seawater.

You forgot about that girl who cuts you off just before the exit in her rush to get to the Mall for a 1-day only sale. Yuppie attitude: If WE got into an accident, it was obviously YOUR fault because YOU failed to get out of my way!

I have determined that my oil pan isthe source ofthe spots on the driveway. On the lift, we could see the axact source ofte leak(s), so we thought there might be some pinholes from rust on the side (bottom looked OK). The new question now, is should I have the oil pan removed, blasted and coated /soldered or just get a new one?What kind of place could do the repair? ZX, so which new or used ones could I use? anything from an L26, L28 or L28 ZX engine? eBay has one from a ZX thx

My opinion on the SUVs is that if these people can afford to buy one, then they will just keep on paying whatever it cost to keep on driving it. It's pretty much a status thing "I gotta have an SUV because they're really cool." I have heard arguments saying you should buy a mid-size car for the safety of the large size, but if you just got all the "trucks," SUVs and minivans off the highways, all you got left are the econo-boxes, and some tractor-trailors. Then you justr gotta get all the idiots in the small cars to open their eyes when they drive and learn what the words SPEED LIMIT mean.:devious:

I did a trip last summer and I got about 22 MPG

I put $41 in mine to fill it from empty.

I wasw hoping to havethe gas tank reconditionedthis summer, and the sender would be done along with it. But it looks like the car will need the tank attached. It seems a mental re-scaling will do for now. thx guys

I fugured out that te scale on my Gas gauge is about 1/4 tank high, so I usually run out when the gauge reads 1/4 full. I cleaned the connector for the fuel-level sender last summer, which is when It started reading off. I also cleaned the connector at the gauge about the same time. So either I need to clean the connector and the connections on the sender itself, or the gauge itself needs to be adjusted. thx

I thnks it's the half-shafts that have a pinhole for grease or something.

Isn't there a little pinhole where you can push the grease with a needle tip?

OK, I got the car out of the storage and I got the intake on the car. I started the engine with the hood up and checked the airflow. Putting my hand over the open end of the tube, I could feel all the air going by, and blocking the open end stalled the engine (obviously). So I put the cheapie cone filter on & I couldn't tell any difference in sound (cheap filter doesn't flow better than stock?). I put the hood down some, and revved the engine by hand. You actually could hear the deep racy sound! So I closed it all up and went for a drive. Maybe it does let the air through a little better, or maybe my AFM is messed up because of the improved air flow? One strange thing I noticed was that a bunch of water (I think) spit out of the tailppipe. Anyway, it's on, and it looks a better than the old oem airbox. Actually, about the only thing you can see is the bracket on the rad support and a little of the support strap.

Tie-down straps are mostly woven nylon. I have never seen any metal ones, except the ones used to strap together loads of lumber.

Probably anything is better than the stock airbox, which ha that little throat and is probably sucking hot air from the underside of the hood. Another 5 Lbs off the front wheels too. If you wanted looks, I would go for an intake system like you see on newer corvettes, with two cone filters.

If the ends are still good, why not just get some metal strap material and replacethat?

What would be the advantage of having that big tube go across the radiator support? I put some thought into an (attractive) looking support. I see too many cheap, rusty straps with a sharp, squared end bolted to the rad support, holding up a polished tube, and it just spoils everything.

I finished making my intake! It uses an aluminum tube, and a cone filter I got off eBay . I used the oem rubber connector tube off the AFM(Pic #2&3), and I made an aluminum bracket (Pic #4) that bolts to the top of the radiator support where the airbox bolted ( to use up the bolt-holes) and a 'strap' made of chromed steel (from a square chair leg!)to hang the tube from the bracket(Pic #1). I wrapped the strap once around the tube for even pressure, and put three screws through the strap & tube.

Is there a chart with the relationship between shaft & head?

On my car the heads are always bigger than the shaft. Most of the bolts with a 10mm hex head ( they bolt most every part under the hood made of sheet steel like heat sheilds, brake lines, fuel filter, carbon cannister, etc.) have an m6 thread. On my swaybar the heads are 14mm andthe shaft m8. There may be a consistency, but it must be proportional to the shaft.

Mine look more like m8 x 1.25 x 40mm, and the tip is tapered for about 15mm. Odd buggers. Mine is a '78

One of the bolts on my swaybar was loose; i.e., it took little effort to spin out with the racket. The other three go in tight. I didn't see any stripped threads on the screw, but the threads might be just worn so I can't run the screw down tight. What can you do to tighten up the threads on these bolts? I can get new bolts & see if those threads are tighter? what are those threads? thx