TomoHawk

My opinion on the SUVs is that if these people can afford to buy one, then they will just keep on paying whatever it cost to keep on driving it. It's pretty much a status thing "I gotta have an SUV because they're really cool." I have heard arguments saying you should buy a mid-size car for the safety of the large size, but if you just got all the "trucks," SUVs and minivans off the highways, all you got left are the econo-boxes, and some tractor-trailors. Then you justr gotta get all the idiots in the small cars to open their eyes when they drive and learn what the words SPEED LIMIT mean.:devious:

I did a trip last summer and I got about 22 MPG

I put $41 in mine to fill it from empty.

I wasw hoping to havethe gas tank reconditionedthis summer, and the sender would be done along with it. But it looks like the car will need the tank attached. It seems a mental re-scaling will do for now. thx guys

I fugured out that te scale on my Gas gauge is about 1/4 tank high, so I usually run out when the gauge reads 1/4 full. I cleaned the connector for the fuel-level sender last summer, which is when It started reading off. I also cleaned the connector at the gauge about the same time. So either I need to clean the connector and the connections on the sender itself, or the gauge itself needs to be adjusted. thx

I thnks it's the half-shafts that have a pinhole for grease or something.

Isn't there a little pinhole where you can push the grease with a needle tip?

OK, I got the car out of the storage and I got the intake on the car. I started the engine with the hood up and checked the airflow. Putting my hand over the open end of the tube, I could feel all the air going by, and blocking the open end stalled the engine (obviously). So I put the cheapie cone filter on & I couldn't tell any difference in sound (cheap filter doesn't flow better than stock?). I put the hood down some, and revved the engine by hand. You actually could hear the deep racy sound! So I closed it all up and went for a drive. Maybe it does let the air through a little better, or maybe my AFM is messed up because of the improved air flow? One strange thing I noticed was that a bunch of water (I think) spit out of the tailppipe. Anyway, it's on, and it looks a better than the old oem airbox. Actually, about the only thing you can see is the bracket on the rad support and a little of the support strap.

Tie-down straps are mostly woven nylon. I have never seen any metal ones, except the ones used to strap together loads of lumber.

Probably anything is better than the stock airbox, which ha that little throat and is probably sucking hot air from the underside of the hood. Another 5 Lbs off the front wheels too. If you wanted looks, I would go for an intake system like you see on newer corvettes, with two cone filters.

If the ends are still good, why not just get some metal strap material and replacethat?

What would be the advantage of having that big tube go across the radiator support? I put some thought into an (attractive) looking support. I see too many cheap, rusty straps with a sharp, squared end bolted to the rad support, holding up a polished tube, and it just spoils everything.

I finished making my intake! It uses an aluminum tube, and a cone filter I got off eBay . I used the oem rubber connector tube off the AFM(Pic #2&3), and I made an aluminum bracket (Pic #4) that bolts to the top of the radiator support where the airbox bolted ( to use up the bolt-holes) and a 'strap' made of chromed steel (from a square chair leg!)to hang the tube from the bracket(Pic #1). I wrapped the strap once around the tube for even pressure, and put three screws through the strap & tube.

Is there a chart with the relationship between shaft & head?

On my car the heads are always bigger than the shaft. Most of the bolts with a 10mm hex head ( they bolt most every part under the hood made of sheet steel like heat sheilds, brake lines, fuel filter, carbon cannister, etc.) have an m6 thread. On my swaybar the heads are 14mm andthe shaft m8. There may be a consistency, but it must be proportional to the shaft.

Mine look more like m8 x 1.25 x 40mm, and the tip is tapered for about 15mm. Odd buggers. Mine is a '78

One of the bolts on my swaybar was loose; i.e., it took little effort to spin out with the racket. The other three go in tight. I didn't see any stripped threads on the screw, but the threads might be just worn so I can't run the screw down tight. What can you do to tighten up the threads on these bolts? I can get new bolts & see if those threads are tighter? what are those threads? thx

There are two belts- one for the alternator, and one for the steering & water. It was always that way.

Thanks. I'll go with the lights off (late morning; maybe it'll get done the same day) no fan, & hopefully no long lights to wait out. I was thinking lately that a fresh battery every Spring isn't so bad. They're not that expensive, after you drop off the core. I change the fuel filter and other things each winter. Like cheap insurance, in case you leave the lights on (again).:eek: I gotta remember to put in a gallon of gas too! thx

The problem was the rebuilt alternator NAPA gave me wasn't really for my car, even though it had 'HITACHI' on the back of the case, like the oem unit did. I got a Bosch one and it fit's fine. I only have to bolt it on, and get a new belt, then re-wrap the wires, etc. Should I use dielectric grease on the BATT screw, or antisieze, or some plasti-dip or RTV or what? To keep the batt screw from rusting solid, like the old one was. thx

I need to get my car from the storage place to the garage to get the alternator bracket off & drill out the broken bolts so the new alternator can be put on. So, I'll need to drive it with only the battery or power. If I put in a fresh battery, how far do you think I could go? It's about 5-6 miles to the garage. thx

I think you have a typo on your subject line. But so what, I did that once myself.

The one I ordered from MSA was coming from the Canadian Nissan parts network, so I would have to assume the U.S. parts network has the same lack of stock on that. That's why I will probably have to settle for a used one, or something close to my oem unit. I would assume the advance curve on the vac pot might be a little different than my oem one. thx

MSA tells me you can't get a vacuum pot for a '78 L28 dizzy (Auto trans/Fed spec.) so I need to find a compatible one. Any suggestions? Would there be a disadvantage to going with just the mechanical (9 deg) advance? It seems the vac pot can potentially add another 15 or so degrees of advance ... thx.

Is it possible I got a console from a 2+2? Or there is just a a square hole on the back of every 280Z console? Any way, I think I will get an ashtray to fill the hole.