TomoHawk

Check out the pictures. Super LOW treeserve!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4621254348&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:US:1

No. Just sharing some very useful experience, like everybody else does.

While you're at it in the fuses, get yourself a can of both DeOxit D-5 and D-100, First use the D-100 to get the majority, if not all, the corrosion off, then a light spritz of the D-5 to preserve & lubricate the connection. Anytime you are into connectors & fuses do this. Eventually you'll get them all.

Where do you get the fuel pump strainer? I will switch mine while it's up on the lift. Is there a document describing the process? No help from the FSM.

You mean if it didn't have any rust, or didn't need fixing? Then you'd have nothing to do on it. (Unless you wanted to rice it:finger: )

No. that was the original statement. I reserve the right to correct typos at any time. It looks like you didn't read it with the typos either. I have never seen any copyright statement around here. Maybe the Boss man would sprinkle a few around.

read comment #4.

Excellent! That's exactly what I's like to stick on there. Tanks a LOT. BTW, any more big graphics like that? GIANT 'Datsun' logo?

I got mine for touring, so I go for the handling, speed, gas mileage, comfortability, and dependability. The radio works and you can hear the music, but who cares how good the music sounds if the engine "sounds." I'm kind of suprised you remembered Bill, What's he up to lately? long time- no see.

I was planning on making some clingy sticker & magnets for myself, probably using some graphics from this website. Maybe we can get ahold of the graphics used on the t-shirts? Would make excellent magnets. If it's ok with them (person who made the graphic). I only wantor use it ( a few) for myself. If somebody else want some, they can ask and do it themself.

Ditto.I haven't seen an S30 car in a JY In Cleveland in over 10 years. I even tried to have the guy check the JY network- no such luck there.

With the roll bar behind the seats, you'll have no problems gettin ing & out, as opposed to a 6-point rollbar.

Well, after browsing the Mall for 90 mnutes, I'd have to conclude that there are no gloves to be had. Maybe until summer, when they put the summer 'driving gloves' out, as one salesperson put it. All I could find was lined winter stuff, but even at $5 a pair, I wouldn't wear them in the sumer. My intent is to have hands that aren't all sweaty (or dry!) while driving- especially on long drives. thx for the inputs.

I thought the $2006 challenge was for the ENTIRE car? Here is where you can find the rules: http://grmotorsports.com/news/category/2006-challenge/ There is a 1959 Z-Car???

Careful, Dave, you don't want to get yourself into something again! j/k

This is a little of-topic, but if you had a shop do the shocks & springs on all four corners, do you thin they could also have the struts themselves blasted clean & painted? thx

I resist about going there in case they just want to sell you the stuff to get the $$$. The polish/protectant service might not work out the way they say on the old paint. I will need to find out more in the spring. thx

At the point you are, I'd say you need a few cans of DeOxit 5 and DeOxit 100, and maybe a gallon of Evap O Rust. When I got my car, I just started going through the engine bay to clean, and if I saw an electrical connector, I unplugged it to look inside, then give a shot of DeOxit 5 or 100 ( as needed) and reconnect. Eventually, I had a day (weekend) when I got to do the taillights, and running lights, another weekend for the gauges, etc. I prioritized the cleaning in order to get it safe enough to drive around in the day, then at night. Lately, I've been going after the connections in the back- fuel level sender, fuel pump, etc. For the heater, I'd suggest checking the vaccum lines to that. My car (Florida car) had to get all the rubber hoses & such replaced immediately because they were all dried out, cracked. leaking vaccuum lines will not help the geater work right. You might also need a coolant system flush (rusty heater water valve inside). It wouldn't hurt to get one. When you say the antenna is broke, what does that mean, it won't go up & down by itself? I just leave mine up.

Lance, I don't understand what you mean. I have all the original sheetmetal, but from the color sticker, it obviously got some new paint somewhere. I have a whole new glass body in storage, as if I ever get enough $$$, I'll put it on. But until then, I'll do whatever I can in spare time to spruce up the outside. I almost totally redid the inside so far, so the outside is left. The local ZeeBart Tidycar has a special where they polish the car and put on some coating like a clearcoat. You know anything about that? It might fix the problem.

I think the surface might be just oxidized, but I can't figure out wht it's JUST THE FENDERS!?? Painting isn't an option, because the whole body is getting swapped, but I want to do what I can for the fenders myself.

The paint on my car is kinda weird. The hood is nice and shiny/smooth, but the fenders feel rough. I tried to rub them out with #1 rubbing compound ( by hand) 2 or 3 times so far and it still feels rough. I lose major points at shows because of that. The rest of the car is nice (smooth/shiney), except for a few odd scratches. I also have access to a buffer. Ideas? I'd just like to touch things up some. I'm not looking for $20,000 show-car quallity.

No Zs in my area, or within 200 miles. These salvage yards junk anything over 10 years old.

I doubt I would be driving anyplace where I'd need fire-retardant clothes, unless it's sex with a flaming-hot babe!:eek: In fact, I put a mitten on the shifter in the winter. Good place to keep it handy, and the shifter doesn't feel cold first thing in the morning, when it's -5 and icy out. I keep a blanket in the back, too, in case said babe has a short skirt on and is stranded somewhere, thumbing a ride. :rambo:

Would you cut off the fingers ( about 1/2 way?) on those Isotoners?