TomoHawk

That's a good job. Can you bend the loop down, for more clearance, or maybe add a 1inch spacer. Clearance to the loop, so you don't scratch things trying to put a metal hook in the loop. In the back , I can only suggest building a triangulated structure to locate the loop low enough to clear the valence. Something low like a muffler hanger.

When I saw the hook coming out from the headlamp, I immediately though that if the tow guy is off a few degrees or more, then the fender/headlamp will get pulled off, or the front will get "banana-fied." IMO, you need to put the bracket down low, near the bumper arm mounts. Is there any requirement for accessibility? Suppose you go off into a shallow pond or mud bog,. You could get in deep enough so the bumper is covered, in which case, you'd need a tow point that's accessible to the average tow truck.

There is just to much nicely-formed sheet metal on the front & back to be able to easily attach a bracket.

The more I think of hacking or welding to the car, the more I think I will get some straps that can be attached to the car. You only need to attach the bolt on the one end to the chassis and have the strap hanging out a slot or hole somewhere in the body.

AFAIK, it only had the tie-down eyes: two on the underside of the front frame rails behind the radiator support, and two on the back next to the bumper shocks. These were put in at the factory for shipping to the dealer, and the dealer was supposed to take them off before the consumer drives away. Mind you, the "tow hooks" of this topic aren't for long-distance towing, such as towing to a racetrack or a car show 100 miles away. They are more like "rescue hooks" so the car can be towed out of a sand pit or some scrub if you go off course when racing.

Higuys, You are required to have a tow hooks or straps if you go racing, or possibly even hot-lapping, so I was thinking of how you would install them on the Zed. I think on the front you could attach a short strap to the bottom of the center radiator support (in stead of the tiedown points, to center the tow-point and avoid damage to the lower valence panel) and feed it under or through the grill. You'd have to put on a zip-tie or something to keep it in place or keep some tension on the strap so it doesn't hang down or even fall on the ground and drag. But on the back, you don't have that much of the frame exposed to put on a strap or even an metal bar. If you have the rear bumper off, then you can make use of the bumper mounting points. What other creative ways are there to add a bracket or strap to the back of the car?

I set up the test rig for the Toyota PWM dimmer and it worked. I tried it with combinations of incandescent and LED bulbs and I got the best control (0-100% brightness) using the combination of bulbs, as we discovered works best with the stock rheostat. The module didn't get warm or let the magic smoke out, so I can only try in in the car. I think you will need to run 1 witre from a 12V source (the headlamp switch) You only have to figure out what mix of incandescent & LED bulbs will illuminate things correctly. The test rig diagram: This photo has a mixture of bulbs, with the control set to full-on. The dimmer is from a 1990s Toyota Corolla or Celica.

I don't think it's impossible; it just requires some time, effort, and resourcefulness: I have some clear translucent label material that I use for making decals for little things, and I could easily print a gauge overlay on it, and make a faceplate from some scrap plastic. Cut a hole in a cardboard box to for the plastic face to fit into and wire some LEDs, or even a turn or brake lamp bulb, to backlight the imitation gauge face. Then if the experiment looks like it has promise, you refine things to retrofit into gauges, hopefully.

Here is a new idea to improve the illumination and viewing of the gauges at night: What if you made a plate of thin, clear plastic using the metal one as a template, and put the gauge overlay on that? In theory, the light from behind should show through the face in addition to what reflects from the edges, and if you use a reverse color scheme (white marks & numbers on dark background) it should be easy to read.

So besides going to the JY, where can you get a commercially-made PWM that would work for the Zed? You can get PWMs very cheaply on eBay, but there is not enough details to tell if it'll work on a Zed.They are all for DC motors.

Does anyone want a lighting switch from a Ford Econoline van? It has switches to control parking lamps and headlamps, plus a rheostat all-in-one. It will double as an anchor too.

In that case you can use a DC motor PWM controller, which switches the +12V side. I suppose the ones on trucks are the same as what cars have, so there is not really a "Heavy-Duty" PWM dimmer?

Has anyone besides Cap'n O installed a PWM to control the illumination? The rheostat on the Zed is on the ground leg of the bulbs, but most PWMs typically control the battery + side of the power, so it would be good you have a PWM that will switch the grounds for the LEDs. Maybe auto manufacturers have taken that into account on newer cars, so we could just use one pf those, instead of rewiring the entire illumination system?

They either won't reply or reply negatively, like most other parts suppliers. That's because there isn't a PWM dimmer for the S30 listed in their catalog, or any catalog. Most people don't understand that you will have to re-engineer things to fit the S30, so they just say "it's not cost-effective" and recommend that you buy new parts from your vehicle's dealer. I think MSA has those "small bulbs" in their catalog, but if those small bulbs burn out. I would just replace it with an LED. You could probably fit a discrete LED into the socket somehow and solder it directly to the original wires. I think the best thing we can do is to have those who install LED bulbs to keep detailed records of the bulbs used, then agree on a common spec for a "kit," and then you might be able to get a supplier to provide something, possibly even a PWM unit that you would have to modify yourself to fit your car.

While I'm restocking on bulbs, is there a need for BA7 bulbs? I think there is just one someplace.

I was corresponding with the vendor of this 24 emitter LED bulb. The auction is for 2 bulbs with $2 shipping, and so I placed an order for 8 pair, and I got $2 shipping for the whole lot. I prefer these to the tower bulbs, because the top of the tower bulbs aren't even glued on! The whole top section will twist easily, and you need to twist it to get it to lock into place. The paddlewheel bulbs are a bit more robust, but you can twist them apart too if you try. BTW- this is how I get my LEDs installed into the sockets: I pull the GW wire away from the socket to retract the contact and clamp the wire with some hemostats. Then the bulb can be easily be removed and an LED bulb can be installed.

As an aside, I'm not going to modify my PWM unit to fit into the same spot as the rheostat, as Capn O did with his. Instead, I will cut the connector from the rheostat and attach it to the PWM, and glue the PWM to a small bracket that attaches to the rheostat screws, with the knob down, like the 240Z has. I won't have the knob visible, but you don't need to adjust it more than once a year, if at all, so hiding from view won't be a problem.

That's how I have my car set up right now, using the rheostat. I get the light to adjust from about 85% - 100% brightness, but I would leave it at full brightness, because the design of the gauges just doesn't allow enough light to reach the gauge face. On my '78, the ashtray lamp and A/T selector indicator lamp are also dimmable. I can't find the glovebox lamp on my wiring diagram. I think the connectors to the ashtray lamp (in the armrest) and the trans indicator lamp are still behind the radio somewhere and you could install an incandescent bulb to use for something (like footwell lighting) to add to the rheostat capability.

The indicator bulbs don't go through the rheostat. They are only part of the turn signal or headlamp circuits, which aren't dimmable. If they seem less bright it's because they are very small bulbs, as they should be. Only the gauge and heater panel bulbs can be adjusted ( and maybe the glovebox lamp?)

In stead of building a fancy extension for the PWM control to make it fit in like the old rheostat, I'm going to just remove the rheostat, and just attach the PWM to a little bracket on one of the rheostat screws, with the knob pointing down. It won't be visible, but you don't need to fool with it once it's set, so hiding it underneath will be fine. I won't have to run a wire all the way to the radio area either.

That's correct. Parts labeled 5050 and so on give you the size of the LED chip, and other labels like T11 give the bulb style, but there isn't much or any documentation. They vary from bayonet to screw-base to tube/festoon, flat panel, etc. It would be nice to know what they call the 'paddlewheel' bulbs we are discussing. BTW- if you're going to 'over-drive' your LEDs by changing the resistor, keep in mind that you are also decreasing its lifespan, so you may want to make some spares and have spare bulbs on-hand, even though you will not need them for a while.

How about this paddlewheel LED bulb, with 24 5050 (5x5mm) emmiters? Stick one of these in your heater panel! BA9S 2.5W white T11 Led 24 SMD 2835 Canbus Error Free W6W 5050 Lamps

I recently used this auction to restock my supply of paddlewheel LED bulbs. You only get 4, but hopefully you only pay shipping once for a larger quantity, so order 12 if you can. I suppose the tower bulbs are pretty much the same in terms of illumination, but I haven't tried them yet. I keep seeing reference t 5730 or 5050 SMD LED chips/emitters. I haven't found any information discussing the differences so you can make an informed decision when buying the bulbs.

YOU can still find them, but only in small quantities. Originally I bought a bag of 10, and now I can only find them on pairs, and some weird-looking tower designs.

That's correct. I had the thought that it probably doesn't need much, as if you used a saw to make a cut, then bend it right and weld over the cut.